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Post by ryan_ott on Aug 24, 2019 0:29:42 GMT -5
I hope trying to tame the TPR works out. Going by the timing you would think it could be a lot milder then we’ve seen that cylinder do.
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Post by 190mech on Aug 24, 2019 0:40:19 GMT -5
Very nice looking kit!Port timing specs look great,,What is the distance of the piston from top of pin to top edge of dome?How about the EX flange dimensions also to adapt the Peace Pipe to this jug..
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Post by aeroxbud on Aug 24, 2019 2:39:57 GMT -5
Nice looking kit.
I noticed in the instructions it said to mix at 2%, 50:1. Will you go back to that? Or stick with 33:1?
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 24, 2019 6:52:46 GMT -5
Nice looking kit. I noticed in the instructions it said to mix at 2%, 50:1. Will you go back to that? Or stick with 33:1? I'm gonna stick with 3%. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 24, 2019 19:19:39 GMT -5
What is the distance of the piston from top of pin to top edge of dome? 18mm. Compression height is 24mm. How about the EX flange dimensions also to adapt the Peace Pipe to this jug.. Not way off, but won't fit as-is. Center to center of the threaded holes is 51mm on this vs 48mm on the Taiwan 54mm. Needs to twist a little too for better alignment. I don't know why some of this stuff can't be more standardized.   At least the gaskets that I've been using should still work.  I measured the 54mm cylinder for the 103cc at ~77mm tall. Wanted to go for 76.6mm, taking off 0.4mm.  Realized I had no really coarse sandpaper and ended up having to take a trip to Lowes. Picked up a big pack of 60 grit and then a couple of assortments for finishing. John had mentioned cheap 40 grit belt sander belts, but they were all 3" wide and I thought it would be easier to just use sheets.  About 0.2mm in I was tired of sanding and it was beautiful today so I went out on the TMAX for a bit. Then got back to it and took it down to ~76.6mm and transitioned from 60>120>220>400 grit.  I quit there. I think I went through about 7 sheets of 60 grit, probably using some too long, and then 3 more sheets of finer grits for 10 sheets total. Oh, I used a little WD-40 as sanding lube and the paper was Gorilla Taped to an non-operational bathroom scale with a thick glass top. Not a lot of fun, but it works. Initially I hoped to get it in the lathe, but the only way to hold it would have been from the inside of the cylinder. Not only would it have been sketchy, but I really didn't want to do that to the bore. Good news is that I've got nice sharp edges on the edges now. I'm planning to make a gasket from gasket paper or something like that to transfer to copper, so the sharp edges should be handy. |
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Post by 190mech on Aug 24, 2019 21:08:19 GMT -5
Port diameter looks close,could you walk the holes over with a chainsaw file to make it work?Is the exit angle the same?Didnt find a common 50mm /24mm crown height/12mm pin piston readily available yet...
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mattyslimz
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 222
Location: Northern Virginia
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Post by mattyslimz on Aug 24, 2019 22:07:08 GMT -5
May I suggest Hondabond HT or Yamabond this time around? After a perfect leak down test the first time on the QJ streetrace install and only one leak due to me not re-torquing after heat cycle on the Zuma, I must say at $12.00 for a 1.9 oz. tube it was worth every penny. I’m not doing liquid cooled stuff now, but it’s been getting the job done on my reed/intake, head/base connections with a good seal. The metal seemed slightly softer on the Zuma case and I knicked the edge at one point but still managed to seal.
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 24, 2019 23:36:31 GMT -5
Port diameter looks close,could you walk the holes over with a chainsaw file to make it work?Is the exit angle the same?Didnt find a common 50mm /24mm crown height/12mm pin piston readily available yet... The holes that just fit the bolt make it line up with the 103 very well without effort. I was thinking you sent me a flange at some point. Can't recall the state of it. I'll have to see where that went and if it could be used for this to keep the one easy to match to the 103. Thank you for looking for pistons. I was just talking to Ryan a few days ago about how expensive a replacement piston is for this ($100). I had actually planned on ordering one with it, because I'm used to $30 piston kits, but then I saw that price. www.scootertuning.ca/en/pistons-gaskets-pistons/61052-piston-top-performances-tpr-77-86cc-12mm.html?search_query=86cc+piston&results=11May I suggest Hondabond HT or Yamabond this time around? After a perfect leak down test the first time on the QJ streetrace install and only one leak due to me not re-torquing after heat cycle on the Zuma, I must say at $12.00 for a 1.9 oz. tube it was worth every penny. I’m not doing liquid cooled stuff now, but it’s been getting the job done on my reed/intake, head/base connections with a good seal. The metal seemed slightly softer on the Zuma case and I knicked the edge at one point but still managed to seal. I'll be putting Permatex Ultra Grey on the base. That hasn't been an issue and cleanup isn't bad. Probably copper spray on the copper gasket. I may have to pick up some Hondabond HT or Threebond 1207B (same thing I think) at some point to try out somewhere though. It probably would have fared better on the last go-round than the 1184. 1184 is only rated to 150C/302F vs 1207B claiming 250C/482F. |
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Post by 190mech on Aug 25, 2019 1:15:08 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 25, 2019 5:39:43 GMT -5
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Post by ryan_ott on Aug 25, 2019 11:31:49 GMT -5
I just measured The MHR77 and Airsal 77 I have and both are 22mm pin to crown, the MHR is a shorter piston and the Airsal is actually a vertex piston.  |
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Post by 190mech on Aug 25, 2019 13:22:09 GMT -5
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Post by 190mech on Aug 25, 2019 15:58:27 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 26, 2019 16:10:28 GMT -5
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Post by oldgeek on Aug 26, 2019 18:13:26 GMT -5
It came out great IMO. Might have gotten it a bit hot, try heating it on a piece of insulation next time so it can cool slower and evenly.
The scroll saw I use to make spacers would work pretty good for that task, I think.
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