Triton # 2 (T2) 49cc to 110cc & Nearly Everywhere In Between

[90GTVert]

I started out by cleaning up some parts and going over the cylinder deck again. Here's the cylinder before.




I spent much more time going through the grits on glass than I did last time. I didn't use 60 at all, but spent a while with 80, then 120, then 180, then 220, then 320, then 400, and finally 600 grit with Mother's polish as a lube instead of WD-40 like the rest. Here are after pics. Definitely a different finish. I can't get all of the visible lines out... or maybe I could with enough time, but I think it should be sufficiently smooth. Even before, I couldn't feel any of the lines that you see. Oh, the specs are just lint from a paper towel that I had used right after the sanding for a quick cleanup.






One of the studs has been a bit weird in the newer case half since I first replaced that half. Sometimes it acts like it wants to slip instead of torque down and I'l back it off and redo it. I went over them all a couple of assemblies ago, but it still happened. I ran taps into the cases again and I had a new set of studs around so I replaced them to see if that helped.


I had the same idea as 190mech about using RTV on the cylinder side of the gasket on the outer ring instead of copper spray there. I thought it was probably a dumb idea, but since John said the same thing without prompting I figured maybe it wasn't so bad. Just needed to figure out how to do it.

I masked off the outer ring of one side of the gasket and then hung it up and gave it a couple of coats of copper spray before taking the tape off. I wasn't sure about residue from the tape, but I used good stuff from 3M and it seemed to be pretty clean. Not saying it is clean enough for sure, but at least it didn't appear to leave anything behind.




I gave the head a quick coat as well and then stuck the o-ring in place.




Then I masked off the outer edge of the cylinder. I ran some tape around the bore and then stuffed paper towels in to make sure nothing got on the bore and then coated the center with copper spray. Again, it looked pretty clean when unmasked.




Then I matched a base gasket to the cylinder and coated it with Ultra Grey before installing it and the cylinder. I put a light coating of Ultra Grey around the outer ring of the cylinder. So the underside of the gasket will meet up with a copper coated bore area where it is also coated and RTV on the outside edge where the gasket has no coating. The the top side of the gasket is totally copper sprayed and meets up with a cooper sprayed head and o-ring. Talk about a no-fuss installation process! I torqued the head down and no studs acted up like before.





Then I wanted to see what was up with my pressure tester losing pressure. I started by replaced the old reinforced hose with Tygon fuel line. Still lost pressure. I ended up sticking the whole rig under water and saw that about 1 tiny bubble per 1-2 seconds would come from the end of the inflation bulb when it was pumped up to the gauge's 15psi max.

Perfect, because I have a spare bulb. Or not. I searched for it and then realized that I think I gave it away not long ago assuming that I haven't needed it for this long so I won't need it. I just ordered another on eBay to hopefully be here by late next week.


Before I can even ride though, I'm gonna have to figure out what part of the ignition is failing.

[190mech]

We have to do a similar test on aircraft combustion heaters,an on-off ball type valve is used between the pressure source and gauge so there is no doubt whether the leak is in the heater or pressure source..

[90GTVert]

Aug 29, 2019 23:16:04 GMT -5 190mech said:

We have to do a similar test on aircraft combustion heaters,an on-off ball type valve is used between the pressure source and gauge so there is no doubt whether the leak is in the heater or pressure source..

Ryan just messaged me to provde the tip of trying to pinch of the hose so a test can be done, but I do like the idea of a valve so I don't have to worry about how well it's pinched or any of the rest of the system.

[90GTVert]

I had to take my dog to the vet this morning, so I made a quick stop to Lowes for a ball valve and barbs.






I checked it underwater and didn't see any bubbles and it held pressure for a bit.


I just did a pressure test on the engine and it failed. Both of the top cylinder studs that go into the case trenching are bubbling.

I pulled out one stud at a time, coated the end with more Form A Gasket 2, and then re-installed and torqued for each. Now I'm stuck with the waiting game again while that cures.

[90GTVert]

I spent the time that I was gonna use for getting the engine back in and ready to run on some 86cc related stuff instead.

I found the spare flange for the Peace Pipe that John sent me. I made a rubbing of the TPR's exhaust flange and used that to make a template. Then I found the way that it lined up the best and marked the header flange to be drilled.




I drilled the holes with a 15/64" bit and they came out just large enough for the 6mm bolts to go through. That's how John made the other flange for the Peace Pipe and I like it because it lets you port match and get it to bolt up where it should be instead of having the slop of most headers that I've used. Once bolted up, the mismatch wasn't terrible, but it did need a little attention.




Before going any further, I made a mark on the flange and the cylinder with a punch. The best match was not made with everything perfectly centered on the flange, so it has to be turned the right way and this will let me easily see how it needs to be installed.




Here's as much of the mismatch that I could get a picture of.




I used a scribe with a 90 degree end to reach through from the outlet side and score the header flange. Then a small amount of work with a burr and a sanding drum gave it a better match.




I'll need to move one spring mount and add another at some point, but the flange is basically ready.


I also dug out the small taper flywheel that I have and found the small crank. I can't even remember what the crank is from and I have no desire to use a stock small crank in anything.




I know John said I could tape the conrod and spin the whole crank if needed, but I decided to cut off the flywheel side of the crank and use it as a way to mount the flywheel in the mini-lathe since it's chuck can't handle the flywheel otherwise.




The outer shell of the flywheel is about 3mm thick. I checked a flywheel that John lightened for me and it looks like he took off about 1.5mm or half, so I plan to try the same.




I put an indicator on the flywheel and it was about 0.005" total runout after some tapping. Upon closer observation, it appeared that the dial stayed very near 0 till it got to the area near the reluctor. Then it went out to the max and once past the reluctor it went back to about 0. It seems like a little dip right there for some reason, but not off center or anything so that's how I left it.




I've got about 0.5mm off of it so far and I'll have to finish it later.

[aeroxbud]

Looks like the lathe is making good progress.
That lathe was such a great gift. You have used it for so many jobs now. Must be another tool you couldn't be without now.

[90GTVert]

Aug 31, 2019 0:29:50 GMT -5 aeroxbud said:

Looks like the lathe is making good progress.
That lathe was such a great gift. You have used it for so many jobs now. Must be another tool you couldn't be without now.

Absolutely. Never knew I needed one till I had it for a while. Just having spacers instead of stacks of washers is nice and appreciated every time something is assembled, let alone anywhere else it comes in handy. I still need to try threading with it sometime, but it pretty quickly went from something I was kind of afraid to use to something that is often my first thought for how to complete a task.

[90GTVert]

I changed cutting tool and angle and got a lot better finish on the flywheel. Only problem was that chips never broke at any speed and the result was basically strands of razors. I had blood on the lathe and one hand has a bunch of cuts from grabbing it to clear it off. Got smarter after that and didn't grab that crap with my hands. I changed tools and cut as close as I could to the reluctor on both sides. Just over 1.5mm removed.




Then I cut a little off of the front outside edge. About 1mm. The mini-lathe has a hard time dealing with something the size of the flywheel so I cut as far as the stroke I had would allow toward the center. Then I just left it instead of setting it up different. I didn't want to cut the areas where the rivets are or where the fan/drive bolts go and the outside is the most effective anyway.






The 103cc failed another pressure test. Not leaking at the studs now. It has a really slow leak. I couldn't find anything and then finally I started really soaking everything and saw that the CVT side crank seal is just barely leaking. I'll replace that later.

[oldgeek]

"Blood on the lathe"
Sounds like a good name for some death metal machinists song Lol!

Looks good though, every little bits gotta help.

[aeroxbud]

Did you weigh it before you started cutting? Would be interesting to see how much weight you have saved.

[90GTVert]

Aug 31, 2019 17:41:19 GMT -5 aeroxbud said:

Did you weigh it before you started cutting? Would be interesting to see how much weight you have saved.

I totally forgot to weigh it, but it is what it is. Regardless of any numbers, I've had a couple of these lightened and it makes a small difference. One that I had weighed was 755g stock and 675g lightened. That one didn't have the front touched, so I'd guess I knocked off ~100g. Really need to have less mass and especially mass closer to center to be effective so they don't act anything like even the smaller flywheels, let alone an inner rotor.



EDIT : I just went out and weighed it so we at least know the after. 535g. The lightened one that I'm currently using on there was 635g.

[pitobread]

A pair of needle nose pliers by the lathe to clear chips. Dont ever grab strands of chips unless need to perform a blood sacrifice after tuning. Brass,steel and stainless are the worst offenders.

[ryan_ott]

I just weighed an OEM Zuma flywheel and it is 695g

[90GTVert]

Sept 1, 2019 9:46:47 GMT -5 pitobread said:

A pair of needle nose pliers by the lathe to clear chips. Dont ever grab strands of chips unless need to perform a blood sacrifice after tuning. Brass,steel and stainless are the worst offenders.

I know better and needle nose are what I grabbed after. It's just that the drawer of pliers was like 4 whole feet away at the time. I'll have to keep a pair there so the walk isn't such a deterrent next time.

[pitobread]

Make a little tool set for the lathe with Allen keys, crescent wrench little paint brush and pliers, your productivity will thank you...