|
Post by repherence2 on Jul 1, 2022 22:36:00 GMT -5
Brah! Bossman, you had me smiling and laughing. big Mahalo for making that video. much Respect for you. while watching the video, i thought to myself, "now i get it". my girlfriend was like, "what's so funny?" because she heard me laughing at the video. You are going to start a trend with the Scoot at Ocean City. in due time, there's going to be more people Braapin' during that show. from what i see in that video, the majority of the people look like they wish they had one.
some say, "Game recognizes Game" and you can tell which of the guys that really respected your machine. just from the way they ask you the questions, you can tell they know that your bike is no-fukc-around. i really enjoyed when you launched it for the old man that was sitting on the sidewalk. guarantee you went put one big smile on his face.
that video made my day. once again much thanks.
p.s. i am pretty sure you are going to start a 2 stroke trend at Ocean City. when that happens, it will be Glorious! Scoot safe Bossman.
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jul 1, 2022 22:43:35 GMT -5
p.s. i am pretty sure you are going to start a 2 stroke trend at Ocean City. when that happens, it will be Glorious! I doubt that it goes too far. Maybe a few people are at least inspired to take a look at scoots and see that they aren't all traffic-holder-uppers. If I had any idea that people would be asking me about them, I would have tried to have a card or something. Here... watch me step by step hammering the bearings into this thing. lol Mostly, I just hope to not get the wrong attention. 🚔🚨
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jul 2, 2022 10:27:56 GMT -5
I got the front wheel done yesterday. 2 pieces of painted PVC made a good spacer for the speed sensor. I used the calculator from our calculators page for a 130/60-13 tire and it said 1527mm circumference. I entered that into the Trail Tech Vapor and went for a test ride. The Vapor said 6.6 miles and the GPS app said 6.6 miles. Rarely works out that way and usually a little adjustment is needed. I went for another short ride after. I had a GoPro on the front fork tube looking at the wheel. Wanted to get a shot of it in the air, but not while testing distance for accuracy earlier. Don't think I got anything good. It ran pretty lousy. I could certainly still get the wheel up, but it was harder from 25-30MPH because it was so rich. It was in the low 90s with high humidity and it really didn't like that. At times I wasn't sure that it was going to clear itself out. I'd like to get to tuning when the weather is not quite as far on the extreme end as it is right now, but I have something else that I'm going to need to work on. I went to wiggle the wheel after the first rides just to be sure that nothing felt like it was coming loose. The steering stem appears to be moving by maybe as much as 1/8" front/back/side to side in the steering head/tube. Must have some bearing or race issues. Didn't seem like it was moving up and down like the top nuts had loosened. Not really a shocker since I've been power hopping this thing all over the place for years now and the last time the front end was apart was after I hit the deer about 3.5 years ago. If it's gonna be apart, I may try to stiffen the front. It's like the rear suspension to some degree. Not quite as bouncy, but it is pretty squishy. It's pretty comfy to ride and both ends soak up bumps alright, but I don't think it's great for performance. I know replacing springs is the preferred method to stiffen them up, but I'm not sure how successful sourcing springs will be. It's already got thicker fork oil and spacers in there. Not a lot of spacing, but it was hard enough to get the caps on so I don't know that I can use much more.
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Jul 2, 2022 14:18:04 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jul 2, 2022 17:39:29 GMT -5
I don't disagree. It seems counter-intuitive to my feeble brain, but I'm sure it works. In the 90s-00s I remember the kids around town that would cut the coil springs in their cars and some of those suckers looked like they would beat you to death watching them go over bumps around town. Never tried it before on any sort of suspension stuff. I may give it a try. Not sure yet, but thanks John.
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jul 3, 2022 22:58:32 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by fly on Jul 4, 2022 21:31:01 GMT -5
Same. Every single time, without fail.
|
|
pewpew
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 254
|
Post by pewpew on Jul 5, 2022 18:53:09 GMT -5
I got the engine in yesterday. My fear shock is a bit long so it sits high in the rear. I had to go up another notch on the jackstands. Normally the front wheel would be pretty high off of the ground jacked up this much, but it’s got both tires on the bench. I’ll be competing in Monster Jam this season. I could rummage for shocks, but it may be OK. It squats more than usual when I sit on it. I assume the shock being closer to straight up and down makes it absorb more. I’m thinking the high rear could be good if it’s not uncomfortable. I always keep it higher in the back to help keep weight on the front because it improves handling. It could possibly be beneficial for keeping the front down. The E-Ton brake hose worked pretty well and I like the new Amazon levers (which I forgot a pic of). My carb cable had too much exposed cable because it was modified for the carb of which we shall not speak. Had to swap cables. The new cable didn’t have enough slack. Swapped out the carb top adapter and cut it down to make it work. After a lot of fiddling, it’s ready to start… or at least try to. EGT. The pump is only supported by hoses. Hope that works. I’ve seen others doing it, so it must be fine. Notice there’s barely any clearance between the rotor nut and the cover. Now we know why they’re all so thin. I had to drill out both holes in the exhaust mount so it would fit. This is an RC-1 specific exhaust on an RC-1. The M10x1 to 1/8 BSPP adapter came in so I should have coolant temp monitoring. I’ve been sitting here waiting for company visiting my parents to leave because they were right out front talking for hours. Didn’t wanna smoke them all out if it does start. As I was typing, my father popped in to say they were all going out to eat. Finally. Gonna cross my fingers and see what happens. Looks like your carburetor vent hose is a closed loop? When i did that the scooter wouldnt get enough gas because there was no vents
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jul 5, 2022 22:40:07 GMT -5
Looks like your carburetor vent hose is a closed loop? When i did that the scooter wouldnt get enough gas because there was no vents It's the hose that Malossi includes. It connects to both vents, but about half of the hose is cutaway in the center to allow for venting.
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jul 6, 2022 12:54:32 GMT -5
I went out and double checked centering of the wheel between the forks and it looks like I'm within 1/16" to maybe 1/32". I took shots on camera that are likely more accurate than my eyes though. EDIT : It's 1/32" (0.79mm) or less off center.
I was curious to try the wheel alignment trick where you tie a string around the back tire and then run it up to the front around a ruler or secure each end to something to see if the front and back tires are centered. Doing that, it looks to me that the rear tire is maybe as much as 1/4" off center toward the right (exhaust) side of the scoot.
I don't recall doing that before so I wonder if that's specific to this setup or common for the standard engine. Mainly because I've put a lot of miles on this scoot and gone through quite a few rear tires. Many of those rear tires wore a little off center. I've seen the same on other scoots as well, and had theorized that perhaps a heavy load (me) on a scooter with a single shock on one side would always be prone to apply force somewhat unevenly on the tire. No idea if there's any merit to that idea.
To really fix the issue, the entire engine could be moved over and that should leave both wheels centered in the scoot. To only align the wheels, spacing and such could be changed to move the front wheel over. I thought briefly about cutting new clip grooves in the engine mount tube 1/4" over and that would make it pretty simple to slide the engine over. What stopped me was the thought that if I cut a little too deep (or maybe just adding more grooves) I could weaken the tube which could potentially lead to a failure. As I mentioned not long ago, I've snapped a motor mount before and seen what happens at low speed. A mount tube breaking would seem to me to be less catastrophic since the engine would at least still have the mount bolt going through it, but I'm still not sure that I want to try it.
Doesn't really matter much ATM, because it feels fine riding it and I did plenty of dumb stuff with it already without issue. I'm not dragging knees with this thing. If I had to bet I would bet that a lot of scooters have the same issue either in stock form or after modifications. Part of me is curious if it noticeably changes anything though.
|
|
|
Post by aeroxbud on Jul 6, 2022 13:22:26 GMT -5
They do chain alignment lasers for motorcycle chain run. Something like that you could line up both sides on the rear wheel. It would be quite obvious then what's going on.
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jul 8, 2022 10:33:50 GMT -5
I'm curious to hear from anyone with experience riding scooters or motorcycles before and after stretching. Moving the engine back in scoots or extended swingarms in bikes. How much stretch and how much difference did it make in the bike?
I'm specifically asking because I am considering moving the engine back to stretch T2, my two-stroke scooter with ~30HP. It seems so far from being able to pin the throttle from a stop like I could with my last (~20HP) setup. I'd really like to see what it does if I could either pin it or at least roll in quickly. I think I could move the engine maybe 6" back without being way complicated or greatly changing the rear shock angle (would move the shock mount as well), but I don't know if that makes a huge difference or not. I read someone on a forum saying that a 6" stretch is usually good for something like a 20-25% difference... but I really have no idea how to determine what kind of difference I'd need to at least keep the wheel close to the ground. Obviously wheelie bars are the certain way to keep it down, but this is a street scoot and I don't need that kind of attention riding around town. It's probably pushing it bad enough as-is.
Notice much lack of responsiveness with the longer wheelbase?
Any issues that aren't commonly mentioned?
I'm not very committed to this idea yet because I do really enjoy riding around hopping the wheel up in the air, but I also enjoy acceleration runs a whole lot. I've also read bike racers saying that if you need wheelie bars (on motorcycles) then you don't know how to launch. I won't argue that I'm any good at it, but I will say I suspect controlling the throttle is a bit tougher than having the clutch to work for drag racing and the power is also very abrupt with a two-stroke so it's kind there or it's not. Input/info/thoughts are appreciated.
|
|
|
Post by sToRm on Jul 8, 2022 16:16:32 GMT -5
The only noticeable difference is turning corners at intersections, which should be expected with the extra length. However in my case, the Ruckus seems to have a heavy front end, making wheelies difficult. The lowered suspension, handlebars and lower seat height helps to lower the center of gravity. Keep in mind I’m working with a 4 stroke, so the power is more subtle than a 2T.
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Jul 8, 2022 17:15:39 GMT -5
|
|
Petro
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 149
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden.
|
Post by Petro on Jul 10, 2022 3:11:12 GMT -5
Mate, find Yourself a ruckus chassi and put the Malossi motor on that, would be a great traffic light dragster with low weight distribution. Also, we would hopefully enjoy video's on both bikes.
|
|