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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 11, 2023 15:06:06 GMT -5
Thanks for the heads up about potential damage from acid and porosity. I searched a little and found others saying that small damage to the coating could be an issue and that you could ruin a cylinder that could have been saved. I decided just to start simple. Soapy water and Scotch Brite green pads. Not sure how it will go with the worst spots, but so far so good. Just working around the bottom of the cylinder first. Before After Before After
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tysta
Scoot Member
Posts: 71
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Post by tysta on Dec 11, 2023 15:12:11 GMT -5
Yap no problem. If find yourself stuck just let me know. Also the cylinder can be replated! Thanks for the heads up about potential damage from acid and porosity. I searched a little and found others saying that small damage to the coating could be an issue and that you could ruin a cylinder that could have been saved. I decided just to start simple. Soapy water and Scotch Brite green pads. Not sure how it will go with the worst spots, but so far so good. Just working around the bottom of the cylinder first. Before After Before After
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Post by bigmatthew86 on Dec 11, 2023 15:57:11 GMT -5
I’m not knocking you but Jeff Slaven is pretty much the KTM guru. I feel like he has a good idea what he’s talking about. I’ve also been told a super quick hit with a ball hone was ok but really should just need to break the glaze with a scotchbrite pad.
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tysta
Scoot Member
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Post by tysta on Dec 11, 2023 16:53:22 GMT -5
Well I can show you other 300 gurus with exactly the opposite opinion and with data to back it up. Also he can call himself what ever he wants but stating the nicasil is applied by spray is one the dumbest things said. Since the procedure is done by electrolysis The moment the cross hatch desapears you start losing power. Just because Iam in a scooter forum and Iam messing with a scooter does not make me less qualified than him or others. I been working with 2 bangers for 30 years. Been and still evolved with racing, I might now a thing or two. I’m not knocking you but Jeff Slaven is pretty much the KTM guru. I feel like he has a good idea what he’s talking about. I’ve also been told a super quick hit with a ball hone was ok but really should just need to break the glaze with a scotchbrite pad.
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Post by Lucass2T on Dec 12, 2023 6:14:10 GMT -5
I decided just to start simple. Soapy water and Scotch Brite green pads. Before After Before After I'd say that cleaned up pretty nice!
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 12, 2023 18:51:05 GMT -5
Here’s the worst area. There is some stuff that I can feel with a scriber below the port. Can’t really feel it with a fingernail. Hopefully it’ll be fine. Top part of the worst area. Some minor leftovers, but cleaned up pretty well. Overall it looks OK to me. If nothing else, it should work so I can try to get the tune straightened out. I have a hone of appropriate size, but not the suggested material for Nikasil. Flex Hone’s site says not to use a ball hone on plates cylinders due to risk of catching the plating in ports. Gonna call it good enough for now and measure the cylinder.
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Post by oldgeek on Dec 12, 2023 19:21:24 GMT -5
Came out nice! I would hit it with a hone anyways.
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tysta
Scoot Member
Posts: 71
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Post by tysta on Dec 14, 2023 2:02:19 GMT -5
It's coming out nice !!!
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 14, 2023 8:25:21 GMT -5
It was about 45F in the garage yesterday so I brought everything inside and let it sit for a bit before taking some measurements. I definitely didn't do it any favors, but still seems usable to me. Not sure for how long. It’s currently at 2,965 miles. Last checkup was 800 miles ago in August when a new C piston went in. Most measurements have gone up by 0.0001”. The thrust axis going from exhaust port across has enlarged by 0.0003” near the top of the cylinder since last time. Clearances would all be fine with a new C piston, ranging from 0.0026” to 0.0029”. I assume the plating is wearing quite a bit in spots at least. Some areas are 0.0004” larger than new now… but I imagine the area that just wore the most up top probably primarily wore on one side where the worst transfer and scuffing was. This is the first time I’ve had any out of round since the cylinder was new with 0.0002” out of round at the top. I’m gonna get in touch with ScooterTuning and see if they can get me another C piston in a reasonable timeframe. I expect I won’t be able to ride till mid January at least anyway. Still gotta figure out a CDI as well or decide to go no charge. Ryan has done well with that but it just makes me paranoid because sometimes I am out quite awhile.
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Post by ryan_ott on Dec 14, 2023 19:47:27 GMT -5
You’ve seen in Tennessee just how long I can go without swapping batteries. I use 12ah lithium and feel 3-4 hours is safe. If you want to try out my EPROM cdi just ask.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 14, 2023 20:05:20 GMT -5
You’ve seen in Tennessee just how long I can go without swapping batteries. I use 12ah lithium and feel 3-4 hours is safe. If you want to try out my EPROM cdi just ask. I'd have to find a spot for a bigger battery I think. I'll have to check. I'm still using the stock battery location and there's not much other room on T2. Thanks, but I've looked over the EPROM curves and I don't see the point. Most have even more advance below the pipe. Unless I've missed something and you can custom program a whole curve. Right now I think my best hope for the MVT is the AliExpress CDI. I don't want to let the smoke out of it, but at least it's not a much more expensive HPI or MSD. I'm not convinced any of those will work because of the lack of a low volt trigger signal from the MVT AFAIK.
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Post by ryan_ott on Dec 14, 2023 22:00:16 GMT -5
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tysta
Scoot Member
Posts: 71
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Post by tysta on Dec 14, 2023 22:49:44 GMT -5
So I can tell you something you can find a really nice flash light with a rechargeable battery that's what I have for the head light will last for hours, before need a charge and you can still ad a extra battery they are tinny and do the job. During the day I use is on the low setting at night put on max. I use the led from the flash light and the oem bulb just use the metal part glue the led on it. The rear I have a very basic led stop light bulb just with 2 leds that thing is way to bright lol. As far the water pump iam running a mechanical water pump. I wouldn't use any other cdi you going to always run into problems, don't waste money and just get a malossi ignition or pvl or even the new S6 ( its made by pvl) with a programmable cdi. You’ve seen in Tennessee just how long I can go without swapping batteries. I use 12ah lithium and feel 3-4 hours is safe. If you want to try out my EPROM cdi just ask. I'd have to find a spot for a bigger battery I think. I'll have to check. I'm still using the stock battery location and there's not much other room on T2. Thanks, but I've looked over the EPROM curves and I don't see the point. Most have even more advance below the pipe. Unless I've missed something and you can custom program a whole curve. Right now I think my best hope for the MVT is the AliExpress CDI. I don't want to let the smoke out of it, but at least it's not a much more expensive HPI or MSD. I'm not convinced any of those will work because of the lack of a low volt trigger signal from the MVT AFAIK.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 15, 2023 1:54:02 GMT -5
I wouldn't use any other cdi you going to always run into problems, don't waste money and just get a malossi ignition or pvl or even the new S6 ( its made by pvl) with a programmable cdi. I've been thinking the same really. The part of me that likes to experiment and have different stuff than everyone else wants to fiddle with CDIs to see if they can work. The more sensible part of me thinks most likely I'm gonna fry a CDI that I could use for something else and even if it does work it may or may not be reliable at all. Even if it did work, would my problems be solved or would I be left wishing I converted to full race ignition... making previous efforts futile.
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Post by Lucass2T on Dec 15, 2023 1:54:20 GMT -5
When you would go the fully programmable route, I'd consider a TPS input. It might give you a bigger safety margin when cruising or not going WOT.
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