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Post by 190mech on Dec 15, 2023 4:49:53 GMT -5
Is your current iggy DC-CDI or AC-CDI? The reason I ask is there are lots of inner rotor older MX bikes that had AC-CDI on them and most all had a very good curve..
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 15, 2023 7:56:01 GMT -5
AC
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 10, 2024 14:23:06 GMT -5
I ordered a C piston and Stage6's new programmable ignition. Definitely not cheap, but I liked that the curve can be programmed. The Malossi would be a much better deal otherwise, since Stage6 makes you buy the add-on flywheel where Malossi includes it. I checked the price of material to make a flywheel myself and the difference was not enough to be worth the trouble to make it though. It's just a Piaggio part... same as the Malossi iggy unless it comes in the RC-One kit, so I assume I'll have to make a plate for it as well. It says only for small crank threads, but I hope that will just mean that I need a nut like the one I had to make for the MVT to fit. Probably gonna be February before I get any of it because the piston is on backorder. Every time I look the date moves back.
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Post by Lucass2T on Jan 11, 2024 1:49:03 GMT -5
Really curious what difference a programmable curve can do for you. Do you already have an idea where you are going to make changes compared to the current curve?
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Post by 190mech on Jan 11, 2024 6:44:57 GMT -5
I think the 40+ degree advance is what Brent is wanting to lower to the 30's, as a race engine used on the street is a tough situation. An ideal mod would be having 2 curves with a flat line 15 degrees at anything below near full throttle then the steep race curve at WOT. A throttle position sensor (switch) could be used for this. Dont know it the new unit is capable of this..
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 11, 2024 10:39:24 GMT -5
Yeah, John got it right. Basically I want to be able to get rid of the ton of advance that the MVT has at lower RPM where I'm part throttle and be able to set the timing in the powerband where I'm at WOT wherever it works. The MHR does allow you to easily add or subtract up to 2 degrees from it's curves through the CDI, but you are just moving the whole curve. It's not so aggressive at lower RPM, so it would probably work just fine anyway. I decided to pay a little more just to be able to do whatever I want with the curve.
I probably would have been best off trying to get a setup that had TPS support, but for the most part low RPM is part throttle and the powerband is WOT. Of course I did just fry a piston only with a quick rollout, but hopefully without 45-46 degrees of timing on the low end it won't be such a big deal. I got away with it for a long time at 42-43.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 12, 2024 14:06:04 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 16, 2024 13:13:35 GMT -5
Still waiting on a piston and the ignition is in the same order so it's all tied up. Right now it's supposed to be March 15th till the piston is available AFAIK. I still haven't cleaned the head and cases up and flushed the cases. My COVID cough is still hanging on at week 7 and strongly dislikes the kerosene heaters or working in the cold so I haven't bothered with something that could still be a month or more from being able to reassemble.
I've been thinking about trying to help me launch T2 better. My first thought was all-in. Cut the motor mounts off of the frame and weld them on a 3-4" back and lower it at the same time. I was talking to a friend and he offered the easier and more rational thought of just lowering it first and seeing if that does anything. I'm not sure if it will do much or even be practical with the larger front wheel/tire getting close to the frame as-is when it comes down from wheelies. Seems like it's worth a try though.
I'm planning on shortening the front forks 2". I'll have to look up what I cut out of the springs in an attempt to stiffen them and deduct that from what I cut out to shorten them. I figure start there and if I think the springs need more modification I can do it later, but they may be stiff enough just making it a total of 2" cutout.
I'm looking at a 245mm rear shock to replace the 315mm shock that I have now. That would actually be about a 2.5" drop in the rear, but I've always kept the rear higher than the front to put weight on the front for better handling. I still don't think it will be level, but that depends how much the shock compresses with me on it. At my weight, some work great and some sag a lot.
I'm also thinking about replacing my current handlebar adapter, which is standard or long, with a short version. Not sure exactly, but maybe lower the handlebars an inch or so. Could aid in biasing a bit more weight toward the front even with a little more level stance.
I figure even if it doesn't do much for wheelies by lowering the center of gravity a couple of inches, it may help handling slightly and should punch a little smaller hole in the air... and look a little less like a 4x4. One problem there is that I'd like to do before and after measurements and pics and such so I probably won't do it till I have the engine back in. Depends how frustrated I get waiting.
I had another idea to perhaps make a drag racing seat. I like the stock Vento Triton bucket for regular riding. It's comfy enough and more importantly gives me convenient storage space for tools. I first thought about just welding a cheap lowered Ruckus seat frame on to replace it, but I don't want to give up that storage area... plus the add-on box that I made for under the rear of the seat that probably wouldn't fit either.
I'm starting to think about seeing if I could make a bolt-on 2nd seat setup. The goal would be to lower me on the scooter. I'm heavier than the scoot so moving my weight down would have to be pretty effecting for lowering center of gravity. The other thought would be to possibly move the seat forward so I can sit way up for drag starts. This may be optimistic though. I'm a big dude overall. If I did manage to move my butt much farther forward, I'm not sure that I fit there all tucked in like the folks I see racing scoots... especially if I drop the handlebars with a new mount. Might be a lot of work for nothing. Gonna have to try sit on the scoot and see if it feels practical at all. Could just be another dumb idea rolling around in my head and I'm not even sure if I like it yet.
The problem with lowering or stretching the scoot is that there doesn't seem to be solid data on what is necessary or effective to what degree. Easy answer is be a better rider and learn to hang on, but I just don't like the feeling when I'm trying to take off and the wheel is up so I let off. This would have worked better when I was 20-something and would ride wheelies on little bikes without a helmet. I guess I got old and crashed a few times and now I'm still dumb enough to want to do it but smart enough to get nervous about it.
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 17, 2024 8:48:05 GMT -5
Anything that gets the CoG lower and or forward has to help with launch. Wheelie bars would make a bold statement
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 17, 2024 9:30:35 GMT -5
Anything that gets the CoG lower and or forward has to help with launch. The degree is the issue for me. Ryan's MetRuck is long and low enough that it's not picking the wheel up... but now it spins the tire and I've seen the tire hop off of the ground. The lowering I think is fine basically till you start having ground clearance issues, the tires hit things and so on. Moving the engine back though... how much does a 2" stretch do exactly? How about 4"? I'm certain there is math to solve this, but it's likely too complicated for me to make any sense of or take accurate measurements for and doesn't seem to be widely published. I'm sure some lever math could be applied, but you add in center of gravity and positioning of weight and suddenly it's quite complex. The good news here is that I'm totally unwilling to do any extreme stretch anyway. Not unless a scoot became drag race only. To me, long stretches look like the engine is a separate entity being towed around by the scooter. Ryan's looks good to me, but I think the Rucks deal with it better and even then they can begin to look like a trailer if pushed too far. I'd really rather not alter the length of the scoot at all, but we'll see how desperate I get down the road.
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Post by aeroxbud on Feb 17, 2024 18:26:51 GMT -5
Anything that gets the CoG lower and or forward has to help with launch. Wheelie bars would make a bold statement Especially if fitted with a Mickey Thompson drag tire. 👌
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sinfull
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 403
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Post by sinfull on Feb 19, 2024 20:19:01 GMT -5
Set your sag on the forks with softer springs and keep the travel, with your weight loaded for the launch. Move your big gas tank from the rear and mount it vertical to the front. Would use a electric fuel pump, like even a ruckus fuel pump to keep the carb bowl full. Rolling wrench has a pulse unit so the pump is not running constantly, can probably find a cheaper unit or something that does the same thing.
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sinfull
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 403
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Post by sinfull on Feb 19, 2024 20:37:19 GMT -5
Or use a floor mount gas tank ruckus type.
Other thing to try is 2 legs front of the seat height adjustable. 2 pins and be in a uncomfortable leaning forward drag racing position, or comfortable riding position. Maybe use a hoop to support the seat use the front hinge mount to the hoop and 2 vertical from frame that the hoop adjustable. With 2 pins.
With moving your weight and the floor mount gas tank plus sag with your full weight. Your drag racing now lol
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 21, 2024 12:24:41 GMT -5
I was looking at torsen brackets. Can't hurt to beef up the support a little, especially with a big rider on bumpy roads jumping the front around and taking off a lot. My initial impression was that the price is way to high. This is the cheapest one that I know of and it's around $150 US at the current conversion rate without shipping. LMR and 8.1 are $200 and over all-in. www.ffmotori.com/en/product-page/torsen-supporto-ruotaI looked them over and wondered how hard they would be to make. I figured maybe I could do it. The hardest part for me would be the bearing. It's got to be placed precisely and the bearing race has to be machined precisely for an interference fit. I figured a 6"x12" chunk of 3/8" thick aluminum could make the main part of the bracket... just barely with no room for error. I have no way to precisely place and machine a hole for a bearing in that though. I see that F&F and LMR both use caps over the bearings. I figured maybe if I used a 1/2" thick disc to make the cap, then I could bolt that onto the bracket and that could hold the bearing. I'd also need hex rod to make the special axle nut that goes through the bearing. Plus a bearing and bolts. Add the bearing and bolts and it's probably $130+. A discount, but this would take me a great amount of time and there's a risk that it doesn't turn out well. One small mistake somewhere and I could put another $40 or more into it to replace a single piece of material. The mini-lathe doesn't like being very rigid anymore (cleaning and adjustment doesn't seem to handle it now... I think it may need more mods or parts replacements). That makes it even harder to do very precise things. Suddenly the DIY method doesn't sound so good. I just emailed F&F to see if I could get a price, because their site says to email them if out of country or not picking up. Last time I tried that... probably more than 6 months ago... they never replied. It could be that shipping makes it as unreasonable as all of the rest, or I may never know. EDIT : E-mail message returned as a permanent error. I tried to message them on facebook and it returned this message (translated from Italian with google translate) : " Automatic message: Good morning, given the high number of requests we receive on social media, we ask you to kindly send us your questions about our products via email (ff.motori.info@gmail.com) after having verified that the information you need is not already available. present in the product description on our website www.ffmotori.com. Thank you so much for your cooperation and have a nice day!" So it just directs me back to a broken email. Are they out of business? The facebook page hasn't been updated in 3 years. Maybe that's why the price is the best? lol Malossi should make a Torsen for their own engine.
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sinfull
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 403
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Post by sinfull on Feb 21, 2024 15:50:02 GMT -5
Get one from the Chinese dual shock scooter, be the same just not look as cool
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