Post by kevin55950 on Mar 18, 2013 0:01:28 GMT -5
I need your opinion!
I ordered a ''brake light'' ( officially an Aerox custom headlight) I can directly mold with the rear end. I'll make a 2 or 3 part mold to get a 1-piece rear end.
But should I make a rounder underpanel (no plate holder) or it is a better idea to make a plate holder where the gas tank is in the way for a flat panel?
I've already done a lot of finishing work ( I found using gyproc plaster is the best way to make a mold as it sands and dries fast) and now I need to do the under part of the rear fairings.
The headlight is 2-bulb type ( like the Greenwood rear fairing) and I want to get a switch that shut down one of the light (by the negative wire) when the current from flasher comes, like some cars and Ducati motorcycles. I'll check with my local police if it's legal or not. If illegal, I'll mold separate flashers.
I'm seriously going towards the MVT90 SC engine but I'll maybe look for a custom-made exhaust... The ones made for the MVT engine are too noisy to even go on the street and there is noise regulation at my local drag strip so... I don't want a scooter that is kept in the garage without moving. Is 190Mech making custom ones ? I'm interested...
I'm also looking for an Aerox engine case because of the rear disk brake and because I can install a mechanical water pump without problems.
I'll keep the headlight I used for my base mold for the front panel but I'll only keep the lens: I'm looking to install 2 Halo projector headlamps and flashers behind the lens. The rear part of the Aerox headlight is too thick to fit with a single bulb in the middle and I don't want to trash it, also it will be a big deal to make solid brakets for the rear fairings (brackets from the frame to the headlight) and making brackets directly in the fiberglass will require a lot of adjustments.
I ordered a ''brake light'' ( officially an Aerox custom headlight) I can directly mold with the rear end. I'll make a 2 or 3 part mold to get a 1-piece rear end.
But should I make a rounder underpanel (no plate holder) or it is a better idea to make a plate holder where the gas tank is in the way for a flat panel?
I've already done a lot of finishing work ( I found using gyproc plaster is the best way to make a mold as it sands and dries fast) and now I need to do the under part of the rear fairings.
The headlight is 2-bulb type ( like the Greenwood rear fairing) and I want to get a switch that shut down one of the light (by the negative wire) when the current from flasher comes, like some cars and Ducati motorcycles. I'll check with my local police if it's legal or not. If illegal, I'll mold separate flashers.
I'm seriously going towards the MVT90 SC engine but I'll maybe look for a custom-made exhaust... The ones made for the MVT engine are too noisy to even go on the street and there is noise regulation at my local drag strip so... I don't want a scooter that is kept in the garage without moving. Is 190Mech making custom ones ? I'm interested...
I'm also looking for an Aerox engine case because of the rear disk brake and because I can install a mechanical water pump without problems.
I'll keep the headlight I used for my base mold for the front panel but I'll only keep the lens: I'm looking to install 2 Halo projector headlamps and flashers behind the lens. The rear part of the Aerox headlight is too thick to fit with a single bulb in the middle and I don't want to trash it, also it will be a big deal to make solid brakets for the rear fairings (brackets from the frame to the headlight) and making brackets directly in the fiberglass will require a lot of adjustments.