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Post by kevin55950 on Apr 30, 2013 20:46:09 GMT -5
will it look better if I also polish the cylinder ?  |
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Post by aeroxbud on May 1, 2013 5:36:46 GMT -5
That looks good. Be a shame to hide it under the body
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Post by kevin55950 on May 1, 2013 11:59:55 GMT -5
Will not be hidden under the body  Frame and maybe fairings work will begin when I'll get most parts for the engine and when the epoxy will be done. As I learned from the Zuma: if I make custom fairings, ALWAYS get a solid and straight base for the body filler unless you want to sand for ages, and not apply 2-4" of body filler. But I don't have all the zuma's constraints with the Jog, that helps ! |
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Post by 90GTVert on May 1, 2013 12:10:37 GMT -5
Looks great as-is, but of course it would look amazing if the whole thing were polished. Show and GO on this one.
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Post by kevin55950 on May 2, 2013 0:04:18 GMT -5
 +5 km/h  My kitchen light plus iPhone quality camera doesn't make a good picture but well  That's how it looks ! Polish is not perfect (the aluminium is very porous and there's so much tight corners) but who cares? It shines !  |
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Post by kevin55950 on May 2, 2013 0:05:35 GMT -5
Did someone know if I can spray some clearcoat or apply some kind of hi-temp varnish to preserve the polish? Only one drop of water will make a blurry spot  |
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Post by 90GTVert on May 2, 2013 6:51:52 GMT -5
VHT and Duplicolor make high temp clear coats. Not sure how well they work.
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Post by kevin55950 on May 2, 2013 15:22:38 GMT -5
I'll cook the red MVT's with a powerful lamp (creates enough heat to make it stick well) after I'll see if I add some kind of clear coat.
Aluminium cylinders take every fluid's tint when they take heat if not polished/coated. That's the main reason I decided to polish it because it took me a day to get this result. The porous material absorbs the oil etc. so, when the cyl. take heat, the oil become near black and these spots can't be cleaned. I don't want my cylinder to look dirty when I do all my possible to make everything look clean.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 2, 2013 16:39:29 GMT -5
Clearcoating any polished aluminum saves tons of time. Heck of a lot easier to wash/wipe it back to shiny instead of getting out the polish. Only problem I've had is that it never seems like it's quite as shiny after I clearcoat, but then I'm not exactly a great painter either.
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Post by kevin55950 on May 3, 2013 19:53:40 GMT -5
Today's update: cases are sandblasted and ready for epoxy and paint. I want to paint it like the MVT dragster ( near Candy Apple red for the body and frame, orange/red for the cases)
I'll try to find a good clear coat for the cylinder and head (which will not go away with a gas drop or gas vapor, like most of the rattlecan paints)
I'll get my exhaust and intake pipe in maybe 2 weeks. I'll keep the zuma wheels for the Jog, because it will look like a monster truck with 13'' Nitro 100cc wheels.
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Post by kevin55950 on May 7, 2013 0:36:16 GMT -5
So, I'll have news for my exhaust and ignition tomorrow.
I'll need a good electric water pump, I've seen the malossi one ( that change speed with engine temperature, seems good for me) or if someone find me a good alternative (800-1200 L/hour) at a good price it will be good ! I'll use my spare Ninja 500 radiator with fan also.
Parts I'll also need:
-Malossi or Stage6 over range torque driver
-Over range belt
-Reinforced gear cover with needle bearings instead of ball bearings
-Intake manifold if I don't make one out of teflon ( I'm thinking about finding a GY6 intake pipe which I can install a 28-30mm PWK carb on it that will be screwed on a teflon plate over the reed valves aligned with the Venturi). I don't want to spend money for stage6 or kiesler itnake, and with the Motoforce the carb will tend to overflow because of the angle.
-Crankshaft bearings and Viton seals ( I got told teflon cages are the best but I don't trust them)
-28-30mm carb. My 24mm might be too small.
I'm also looking to make a swingarm-style suspension where the shock will be in front of the cylinder. I can weld a support for the engine, but I need to add 2 bearings+holders on the lower cases part to make this possible. Will TIG welded supports on the cases be safe? It's because I want to participate at circuit races with it and I need a good rear suspension ( I see there is very few shock travel on the Zuma/Jog compared to an Aprilia or Piaggio scooter). I'm also looking for this because it looks good... and it will be kinda unique on a scooter!.
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Post by kevin55950 on May 7, 2013 1:20:37 GMT -5
The Malossi water pump doesn't come with the temperature regulator as I see... so it's not worth paying that much for a standard, branded water pump. I have one on my motorcycle radiator ( like a temperature sensor with 2 pins instead of only one connector). So I'll need a good water pump. If someone can help me, there is so much different models on eBay...
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Post by 90GTVert on May 7, 2013 6:58:36 GMT -5
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Post by kevin55950 on May 7, 2013 11:35:27 GMT -5
I've seen some guys using computer LC systems... Radiator pump tank etc. The tanks look nice, I think I'll use one on mine.  they look like this, but I'll need a larger one. Maybe 250mm or 400-500mm model. Imagine this kind of water tank with liquid and LED's inside at night, mounted to be seen O.o An Alphacool cpu pump can pump 1500L/hour and it's very small. Radiators are beautiful, but kinda expensive. My good old ninja radiator will do the job. Maybe this one ? But it uses 26W of power.. Pumps 1340L/hour www.ebay.ca/itm/400460577522?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_5483wt_1401 |
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Post by kevin55950 on May 15, 2013 0:06:23 GMT -5
FINALLY got the epoxy, pretty expensive but it REALLY do a good job!
I'll post pictures when the case work will be finished as I'll not have my computer for the week...
I found the LC water reservoir for computers that will work for my use (will be plugged between the rad and the pump). It has 3X holes for coolant hoses adapters under ( one with a 100mm tube which makes the liquid flow like a ''fountain'' in it) and a top hole which I'll use as filler cap. The unused hole under the reservoir will be used to drain the liquid if necessary. It's different from systems I'm used to, the coolant is always flowing through the reservoir in this case, so it seems easier to me to bleed the coolant and drain it if necessary.
I hope I'll have time to work on the frame as well, and try to figure how to install the Zuma front T on this frame where the T fixture is way smaller on the Jog frame. I'll not enlarge the fitment as some guys told me this weekend because I've seen pictures of Bw'S R ( pre-bug Zuma, vertical engine) with Bug zuma forks where the ''fork T holder'' broke on the frame because it became too weak with the enlargement. I don't want this to happen on the drag strip...
I'll also need to renforce my weak engine mount on the frame (welded again and again because the link between the 2 parts broke so many times and was never welded straight enough, a police officer already arrested me with the bone stock jog telling me to go to an alignment shop to align my rear wheel... It sounded very strange in my ears!)
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