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Post by drawkward on Mar 24, 2010 14:33:17 GMT -5
So, I think I found out why my roller weights are going flat so fast, and why my bike runs a lot better when I first start it up in the morning, and starts to get slower after the first few miles (I was thinking it was just loosing compression when it warmed up, maybe it is). I know gumby420 at scootdawg was talking about how his RX8 was a lot faster when he first got it, and now it was doing very poorly, because of a broken variator fan (causing overheating I'm sure). Well I plan on riding with the plastic cover off from now, exposing the filter for the fan and air scoop for the rear pulley. Also think I may have to get a new variator...  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 24, 2010 15:30:15 GMT -5
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Post by 2strokd on Mar 24, 2010 15:34:25 GMT -5
Yes, i agree. Even in the winter i feel warm to very nice and warm on the hands air coming outta my vents.
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Post by drawkward on Mar 24, 2010 16:26:55 GMT -5
I have these vents, I just removed my plastic cover that does nothing but restrict the air flow on through the vents, and make it look pretty. Here's what it looks like without the cover. I'm thinking I should removed that little filter too, as the inside is covered with rubber dust anyways. My only concern with the venting is when it rains. I drive the scooter rain or shine, so I wasn't sure how much the water would affect the transmission.  |
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Post by Reign on Mar 24, 2010 18:45:50 GMT -5
I might end up taking the drill press to my cover. I have a brand new spare if I screw it up. I've been noticing the same thing with mine lately. After it warms up it runs like shit  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 24, 2010 19:51:21 GMT -5
The groove around the clutch, as shown on T2's case on the page I linked to, works well. I've rode in pouring rain without issue. The clutch is the biggest heat source from what I can tell. Especially right around the edges, where the shoes contact the bell. I feel that that is the most effective cooling method without going nuts and cutting half the case away. With the inlet you've got near the clutch, it would probably work really well for you. I definitely don't suggest anything that removes the bearing that supports the rear pulley for our minarellis.
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Post by drawkward on Mar 25, 2010 16:15:20 GMT -5
Went to my last training class today. It is about an hour away on the scooter, full throttle the whole way. It did fine on the way there. On the way back, I noticed a significant drop in performance. I went to measure my weights in the variator today with my new scale ($12 Harbor Freight). I got the nut off, then went to pull the variator. It was stuck. I gave it a good yank, and the locking piece came off in about 5 pieces. I also noticed that my crank shaft is smooth where the gear was gripping the variator. Ugh! I guess the ride was too much for my scooter. Thinking that I'm going to need a new crank shaft, and a new variator. Not looking forward to it. Also, I don't have a ride to work tomorrow!  My camera is of no better quality than my scooter, so this is the best picture I could get of the shaft.  The gear is worn about .7mm down. |
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Post by drawkward on Mar 25, 2010 16:36:13 GMT -5
Oh and I don't know how I'm supposed to figure out the diameter of the crank. I measured the inside of the variator fan and it's like 16.8mm
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Post by Reign on Mar 25, 2010 17:24:57 GMT -5
Oh and I don't know how I'm supposed to figure out the diameter of the crank. I measured the inside of the variator fan and it's like 16.8mm So 16.8mm fan = 16mm splines. That really sucks that your splines got chewed up like that and the locking piece broke apart. If it wasnt for the splines, I'd have given you my Triton variator seeing I don't need it anymore. At this point, it's looking more and more plausible for you to just get that whole engine off of me  |
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Post by drawkward on Mar 25, 2010 17:55:22 GMT -5
I would but the shipping would kill me...
So is 16mm the norm? I really really hope so!
If you would be willing to ship me your variator, maybe overnight it to me. that would be great. I'm definitely willing to pay for it, just need to get the scooter working. I understand I will probably destroy the variator putting it on the worn crank, but at this point, it's my only real option.
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 25, 2010 18:22:02 GMT -5
I dunno if 16mm is the norm, but there are plenty of 'em around. 13 and 16mm are both common.
Not sure what to tell you on the crank. Hopefully with fresh teeth on a new washer it'll grip. If not, you probably will be needing a crankshaft. Only other thing I can think of would be to shim your variator out so the teeth are on the non-stripped section. Depending how far it has to go, it could be bad for performance, but it might keep you going to work for a bit.
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Post by Reign on Mar 25, 2010 18:23:05 GMT -5
I would but the shipping would kill me... So is 16mm the norm? I really really hope so! If you would be willing to ship me your variator, maybe overnight it to me. that would be great. I'm definitely willing to pay for it, just need to get the scooter working. I understand I will probably destroy the variator putting it on the worn crank, but at this point, it's my only real option. There's no way I would be able to get my variator to UPS in time to get it overnighted to you, sorry. I'd give you a crazy deal if you took the whole engine, honestly. Most of the cost would be shipping. |
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Post by drawkward on Mar 25, 2010 19:01:20 GMT -5
Brent - That's what I was thinking, shimming it out. At this point, performance is my least concern. Getting moving is my main concern. My last resort is my grandma's bicycle, so even if I only do 20 mph, I'll be satisfied until I get a new crank installed. The only worry I have about the crank is that I won't be able to find one that fits, considering. Only one I know of that will fit is Ben's...
Ben - Yeah I didn't mean tonight, I was thinking of you shipping it out tomorrow. I've calmed down a bit, and found a ride to work for the next few days, so I'm not in so much of a hurry. So, what kind of deal would we be talking about on the engine? And besides that, what would you charge for the parts I need to get my variator moving again? Send me a PM
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Post by Fox on Mar 25, 2010 19:31:18 GMT -5
What about grinding the drive boss shorter by 2-3 mm's to expose the splines farther in? It might work but it might make the drive belt move all the way off the variator. It looks like your belt is riding pretty high on the variator already.
Check you clutch pads for glazing. I burned up a belt and a variator on my 4 stroke because the clutch was slipping. The heat transferred from the clutch to the variator via the belt. I wouldn't have believed that could happen until I saw it.
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Post by drawkward on Mar 25, 2010 20:46:02 GMT -5
JM - It might sound crazy, but I had thought that for a moment earlier. Some supporting evidence - My clutch has "red" springs in it. I notice that when I take off from a stop sign, my clutch seems to drag really hard until it engages, which could take me all the way the other side of the 4 way stop to do so. I always think to myself that its like dragging the clutch in a car. It would just wear on the clutch shoes more, thus in turn it would create more heat. That heat, as you said, could transfer via fast traveling super hot belt. Does my variator look a little burned to you in that picture? Did to me when I was looking at it earlier... That variator side of the pulley looks burnt - It's not just a reflection. Shouldn't it be maybe black, but not burnt-pan brown? Kinda of fascinating too, if you think about it. I mean, the fan side of the variator pulley looks pretty good, I mean the pulley face side does. It's not all burnt looking. It definitely got a good overheating, and melted a bit, but the pulley face isn't as burnt. Must have been dissipating a lot of the heat. My theory on the variator side is that the rollers and roller ramp thing were holding a lot of heat (thus explaining the premature flattening (300 or so miles) of my roller weights). The gear part that connects in the six spoked lock of the fan must have gotten super heated as well and started to melt. If a stock scooter's variator could support the power of big bore kits and the likes. A faster scooter. Why could it not support just the power of an extended ride of a regular scooter. Heat... Heat also weakened the gears that connect the lock thing to the crank shaft, causing them to start to shear and bend. It's hard to get a good picture with my camera, but the gears on that six prong gear lock thing are more bent then sheared off. The slipping of the lockgear on the crank started to wear off the gears of the crank. Also probably doesn't help that I'm running super lean right now, due to a massive vacuum leak around my head and base cylinder gasket areas. So I think we can agree that I should vent my CVT better (started today, got tired of grinding), as well as changing my clutch springs down on the RPMs, and MAYBE order a new clutch, if I need it. Not to mention the necessities at the moment - Variator fan side, locking nut, and some luck with the stripped crank shaft gears.
Typed all that up, and forgot to ask about this... What about grinding the drive boss shorter by 2-3 mm's to expose the splines farther in? Is the drive boss the cylinder that goes around the crank, and the variator pulley slides on? What exactly would that do to me, performance wise? |
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