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Post by oldgeek on Dec 21, 2013 22:02:06 GMT -5
If you can't do the freezer, there's gotta be a night somewhere in the relatively near future that it will get below freezing outside even in SC. Another good idea! It may be surprising to many though, that it does not get below freezing that often here right on the coast. The ten day forecast shows Tuesday night (Christmas Eve) the best chance to get the job done. The low is to be 32 degrees. Maybe Santa will fix it for me while I sleep! I'm hoping the Power Pure will last long enough to be as affordable as any other tire with it's harder center compound. Not sure though since I got a screw in my first one almost immediately. Do you notice the transition of compounds as you start to lean? I bet you hit all kinda crap riding on the shoulder, it would kill me to destroy a tire because of that! I cant say that I can tell WHEN I change between the two compounds, but I can say a curve at 53 MPH on the old tires that always had me using both lanes just to feel safe, now feels like I am only doing around 45 MPH and pretty comfortable using just one lane. I only have the new tire on the back ATM, hopefully the front tire will come Monday and I will be able get it mounted so I can tell more. Santa: If you read this PLEASE bring me a long case MINA that is ready for a 54 kit. Just the cases will be fine. Thanks!
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Post by oldgeek on Dec 24, 2013 20:46:05 GMT -5
The front tire came today, so I tried to put it on. I got it halfway on pretty easily, but stopped trying to get it on the rest of the way because I was scratching up the rim, and I did not want to screw the bead up. I guess I will let the guy at the scooter shop finish mounting it later.
I need a source for a 21 35 7 seal for the front wheel. The one on it is shot, and I have not been able to find a replacement yet.
We are looking for a low of 32 degrees tonight, so I made a seal plate for the dented pipe and put about a pint of water in the header part of it. Its now hanging outside so hopefully in the morning it will be magically fixed.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 24, 2013 22:35:39 GMT -5
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Post by Corrosion on Dec 24, 2013 23:15:34 GMT -5
If you have access to a torch & compressed air you can heat the area around the kink red hot, while filled with compressed air. It works well.
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Post by oldgeek on Dec 25, 2013 6:16:05 GMT -5
If you have access to a torch & compressed air you can heat the area around the kink red hot, while filled with compressed air. It works well. Well then, if the frozen water trick don't fix it, I will definitely be giving this a try. I have a oxy/acty torch that I use for work, and some nitrogen on hand. Sounds fun and slightly dangerous!
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 2, 2014 22:35:06 GMT -5
Its just over a month since the weather allowed me to ride. I had the front tire installed on the rim back in December, but its been too cold to put it on the scooter until today. I got the front wheel put back on the scooter and took a ride. The new Michelin Power Pure SC tires ride so much better than the stock cheapos its incredible.
It really felt good to go for a ride today. Overall the scooter ran good. I still need to work on the launch, but after the first 4 feet, it pulls real good. I believe I have some belt slip at first, I must have modded the fixed pulley just a little to much.
I also tried the frozen water trick on the bigger exhaust pipe for about a month (I left it hanging outside LoL!) but the dents did not move. I probably did not put enough water in the pipe to get the job done. For the next attempt to fix the pipe, I will try to heat the dents up red hot and use compressed air to push the dents out.
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Post by oldgeek on Jun 10, 2014 20:51:45 GMT -5
As I recently posted in another thread, I put a new clutch on this scooter. The clutch is fine, but I have been having all sorts of issues lately, So I decided to pull things apart. For one thing, the new CVT cover bearing is loose in the cover again. The bearing threw its grease everywhere, then loosend up somehow. Possibly because it also fits loosly on the clutch input shaft maybe it is getting vibrated and damaged? Is there any way to salvage the cover if the bearing seat is oversized? Also the Hoca variators bushing is considerably wore again, this will be my 3rd variator since I started this build. I decided to pull the cyl, and inspect it since I have no idea how many miles I have put on this (no speedo) but the hour meter reads about 125 hours. Here are some pictures of what I found. Not sure what is considered normal, but the plug looks horrible. I am now shopping Stage6 Street Race parts. I need the gasket kit, possibly rings, and a piston kit. Does anyone in the US sell this stuff?
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Post by 2TDave on Jun 10, 2014 21:33:33 GMT -5
You could try spmotostore or scootertuningca is in Canada.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 10, 2014 21:49:19 GMT -5
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Post by 2strokd on Jun 11, 2014 8:54:36 GMT -5
That thing looks all over the place man. PLenty of oil but ran hot as hell and cooked it all. What kind of oil is that?
I would check the crank for runout on the vari side. Maybe that is whats causing vari slides to go so fast?
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Post by 2strokd on Jun 11, 2014 8:56:56 GMT -5
Case leak? When i had a slight case leak and rode the scoot anyway all the extra heat ended up deforming the vari side crank bearing seat. The bearing would fall in and out. Not to say this is your problem, just a good reason to make sure there is no leaks.
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Post by oldgeek on Jun 12, 2014 20:14:16 GMT -5
That thing looks all over the place man. PLenty of oil but ran hot as hell and cooked it all. What kind of oil is that? I would check the crank for runout on the vari side. Maybe that is whats causing vari slides to go so fast? I think you hit on something. I run AMSOIL Saber, premix. If you remember, this is my first build. I had just a little trouble with the crank install. Something, has leaned it out somehow. A closer look at the piston shows slight signs of four cornering. I don't know if it has been this way or if it just happened.
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Post by 2strokd on Jun 13, 2014 8:03:42 GMT -5
We gotta learn somehow right? Lol, my first kit ended up with the base gasket upside down Here is a trick i thought of (transferred knowledge really). I read about adding golfball like dimples in the piston in the area that travels over the thin exhaust bridge on "bridged" cylinders. This in theory is supposed to trap some oil (in the dimples) and the oil helps keep the bridge cooler and lubed better. If you didnt already know this, the bridges in the exhaust get hot quick and can swell into the bore and press against the piston causing some nasty scaring and wear. I took that idea and transferred it over to the "four corner" wear. I am not sure just how much, if at all this helps but i did it anyway and it sure didnt hurt I placed 2 small dimples at all the "corners" being very careful not to put one in the direct path of a transfer port, like this. This might not be possible with all cylinders? The bigger the ports, or smaller the bore might make it harder to not place a dimple in the way of a port?.. It worked for me in my case. I did this to a already used cylinder but it still looked like this after many more passes. A true test would be to do this to a new street kit and ride, ride ride.. then check lol.
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Post by oldgeek on Jul 21, 2014 21:14:02 GMT -5
I finally got the top end back on last week. I used the original piston after cleaning it up. I also used a thinner base gasket this time around. I did not check the squish or the compression either, I just went riding! Things seem to be back to normal possibly even a littie better, so today I decided to try a few CVT changes.
I installed a NARAKU fixed half variator pulley, the kind that has the splines machined into it. I also installed a KOSO + 15% contra spring. I was hoping the KOSO spring would be just a little softer than the 1200 spring I currently have installed, but it feels just slightly stiffer. Once again I changed too much at once! While the launch seems to be better, the top speed is only 44, and it will now rev wildly if I let it, around say, 12000 RPM. The next change will be heavier sliders in the variator that will hopefully balance it out. Currently there are a mixture of 4.5g and 5g sliders, I will probably try just 5g sliders next.
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Post by 2TDave on Jul 22, 2014 6:11:13 GMT -5
We gotta learn somehow right? Lol, my first kit ended up with the base gasket upside down Base gasket upside down?
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