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Post by scootonem on Mar 19, 2013 23:16:35 GMT -5
So I ended up taking my cases apart along with my crank and bearings. I cleaned them really well by drenching with WD 40 and gas. Same procedure for my reeds and cases. I'll have my new bbk tomorrow afternoon sometime. I just hope everything runs smooth. Quick question. I switched to my OKO carb and was wondering if a 103 main and needle position second from richest sounds right for a UNI filter and the 54mm?
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Post by kevin55950 on Mar 19, 2013 23:23:59 GMT -5
I have a 24mm PWK carb and I have a 103 mainjet, same needle position. 54mm bore, 44,8mm stroke with pod filter and oem-look YMS exhaust.
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Post by scootonem on Mar 19, 2013 23:46:30 GMT -5
My set up is a 45mm crank, 54mm bore, UNI 21mm OKO 103 main, hoca intake, carbon fiber reeds, and a Hoca performance chrome exhaust. So I should upjet since yours is a 24mm?
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Post by 2strokd on Mar 20, 2013 10:04:20 GMT -5
What are the odds lol. 45/54=103cc needing a 103main. Cool!
She also likes 103oct fuel and tops out at.....well, not 103 lol
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Post by scootonem on Mar 20, 2013 13:04:16 GMT -5
Lol right. If I could do 103 on a scoot I would definitely upgrade brakes, tires, and double up on rear suspension haha! Well, I got my new kit today; however, I'm puzzled about something they sent me along with the kit. I just can't seem to figure out what it's for. Help? Attachments:
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 20, 2013 18:10:54 GMT -5
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Post by scootonem on Mar 20, 2013 21:31:08 GMT -5
Thank you sir! That's exactly what I needed. BBK is installed and charging the battery with my tender jr. We'll see how she responds when I have a full charge. Update: Starter is working hard, but won't start. compression is at 180, im getting spark, and fuel... heading back to my cylinder head in the a.m.
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Post by scootonem on Mar 21, 2013 14:24:46 GMT -5
Is it advisable to leave the base gasket off and throw on a thin layer of ULTRA COPPER gasket maker on the case? I have too much squish clearance with the tall BBK. I fear that my cylinder may need to be machined...
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 21, 2013 14:44:22 GMT -5
What is your squish clearance? Compression?
If you do decide to run no gasket, I'd use Permatex Ultra Grey or ThreeBond.
BTW, I see you've added an avatar. That's a great looking Triton. :thumb: I love the R1 Raven-esque wheels.
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Post by scootonem on Mar 21, 2013 15:56:57 GMT -5
What is your squish clearance? Compression? If you do decide to run no gasket, I'd use Permatex Ultra Grey or ThreeBond. BTW, I see you've added an avatar. That's a great looking Triton. I love the R1 Raven-esque wheels. Okay, i've got some ultra grey handy from taking my cases apart. My squish was unrecognizable using 3/32" solder, I was tired last night and must've read my gauge wrong because theres no way it read 180psi with my piston that low in the cylinder. Thank you! I just wanted the red ring to be a little fatter than the R1 style . I plan on styling some more after I've got it dialed in. I just keep running in to these itty bitty problems that cause a lot of headache if not taken care of.
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 21, 2013 20:12:14 GMT -5
Check the compression again if you are unsure. Some of us have ran wide squish over 2mm and still had good compression.
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Post by scootonem on Mar 21, 2013 21:22:25 GMT -5
Compression is 165-168ish I still cant get her started. I am just absolutely frustrated...Squish is 1.7247mm looks like im going to the machine shop tomorrow to have the base of my cylinder milled. Mill work is not cheap :/
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Post by ryan on Mar 21, 2013 22:17:34 GMT -5
id machine the top..because if its machined at bottom to much cant go back..atleast if you machine top you can put more base gaskets. im running 28mm keihin and i have 95 main jet with uni-filter
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Post by scootonem on Mar 21, 2013 22:34:02 GMT -5
If I machine the top of the cylinder that would only solve my squish clearance and not my port timing. If I mill down the base of the cylinder (where base gaskets are stacked) not the case. Then that would correct my squish and port timing. I just finished taking all of the ultra grey off of my cylinder and case. I threw on the original base gasket and the tall cylinder. Stuck a warm tootsie roll just on the edge of the cylinder head wall and moved my piston to almost TDC to hold the tootsie roll in place against the head then torqued to 15ftlbs. Then, I gave her a good few turnovers to make sure it smashed right and froze it. I measured the tootsie roll squish with both base and head gaskets on the cylinder at exactly 2mm. So this means 1.1mm must be milled from the base cylinder, correct? If they mill too much can't I just add base gaskets?
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 22, 2013 6:51:31 GMT -5
Sounds about right. You can add base gaskets or a spacer if needed.
I don't think the timing and compression are the reason it's not starting though.
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