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Post by supermel74 on May 30, 2010 15:07:59 GMT -5
Ok, what do I check for as far as the float height?
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Post by 90GTVert on May 30, 2010 15:57:46 GMT -5
Take the bowl back off. Turn the carb upside down. The flat part of the float should be parallel with the carb body. If the float is set too low (actually high when you are looking at it upside down) it won't allow fuel to pass into the carb. If it is set to high (low if you are looking at it upside down) it may not stop fuel from entering the carb and you could end up with fuel overflowing.
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Post by stepthrutuner on May 30, 2010 15:58:14 GMT -5
Be certain you have not accidently swapped the vacuum line from the intake manifold with the fuel line to the carb at the vacuum controlled fuel petcock. I think the lowest nipple on the fuel petcock is for the vacuum line.
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Post by supermel74 on Jun 5, 2010 17:11:48 GMT -5
Went back today to check everything over. The lines are definitely hooked up right. Last week when I left it, there was no fuel getting to the bowl. Today when I went to check it, there was fuel in the bowl. I checked the spark plug and it was pretty soaked. I'm guessing the float is tweaked a bit but I can't see the difference with my unknowledgeable eye. I got it to start for a second, but the idle dropped and it stalled and wouldn't fire back up. Not sure what to do now. It seems the more I do myself the more likely I am to screw it up worse. Any suggestions? Would I be better off just buying a whole new carb since I'll probably be unable to properly fix the problem on my own? I know that sounds irrational but I'm out of ideas.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 6, 2010 4:59:18 GMT -5
It sounds like it's flooding and you are probably right about the float. It's up to you. I think you would be better off to pull the carb off and completely clean the bowl area to be sure there's no debris anywhere. Remove the float and clean the float needle and seat and make sure there's no residue anywhere on the float pin or anything that could cause the float to stick. Setting the float is usually simple. If you have a metal tab where the float needle is, bend it whichever way you need to to make the flat part of the float sit perpendicular to the carb body when holding it upside down. The pic below is from a 150cc carb, but it's the same principle.  Also, remove the spark plug and let the cylinder air out for a bit so excess gas can evaporate. Check the air filter as well and make sure it isn't soaked with gas. If you aren't comfortable with those things than you could consider removing the carb yourself and taking it to a shop to have them clean it and check the float or buy a new carb. |
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Post by supermel74 on Jun 6, 2010 19:18:29 GMT -5
Thanks. The pic definitely helps. I couldn't take the carb off the other day to turn it upside down because I lost my only 1/4 wrench that fits but I'll pick another one up tomorrow and give it a go
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Post by supermel74 on Jun 7, 2010 14:39:31 GMT -5
Well I gave it my best shot but no luck. The float looks fine to me but I just can't really tell the difference either way. I think it would probably cost nearly as much or more to take the carb somewhere as it would to just get a whole new carb, plus there really isn't anyplace around here to take it. Is there anything really specific I need to know before buying a new carb to make sure it's compatible? Also, are there any tutorials for completely removing and installing a new carb. I've removed it from the intake and disconnected the fuel line but I'm clueless as to how to remove some of the other cables.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 7, 2010 20:55:35 GMT -5
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Post by supermel74 on Jun 7, 2010 21:41:55 GMT -5
What affect does the position of the cable nut and locking nut on the carb cable have on the carburetor? I did mess with it and I'm not sure I reset it the same.
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Post by 2strokd on Jun 7, 2010 22:20:19 GMT -5
Its just to keep the slack out of the cable. You want a little but not too mcuh or your throttle wont open all the way.
Hey! theres another idea for dousport to check!!!
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Post by supermel74 on Jun 8, 2010 11:34:44 GMT -5
Its just to keep the slack out of the cable. well that explains why the carb didn't hang as freely as the last time I took it off :doh: Are there any real benefits to getting a Hoca "performance" carburetor for a stock 50cc? Also, how do I know what mm bore size I need? |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 8, 2010 12:48:25 GMT -5
I'd wait on the carb until after a big bore kit personally. If you do decide to get a carb, I really like DellOrto carburetors. They are a bit more expensive than that Hoca, but great little carbs. Trying to figure out what size aftermarket carb you need can be a pain. Usually for 50cc if folks upgrage (short of full race engines) they go 17.5-19mm. The average 70cc usually would be good with 17.5-21mm. I use the stock carb on my piped 70cc scooter. Works OK. I'd like to upgrade to a DellOrto mostly because I like tuning them better than the stock, Arreche, and OKO carbs that I've tried.
One bad thing about some bigger carbs is that you may end up needing to change your throttle cable or throttle assembly, sometimes the intake, sometimes the air box wont fit, etc...
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Post by supermel74 on Jun 8, 2010 13:33:43 GMT -5
OK cool, sounds like for now I'd be better off going with something close to stock since I don't plan on going 70cc anytime soon. How are those $39 carbs from scrappydogscooters compared to Mikunis?
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 8, 2010 14:41:44 GMT -5
I have no experience with scrappy's carbs. I have had non Mikuni stock carbs that seem no different than the Mikunis to me. Sorry, but that's the best I can really tell you. I've heard some stock carbs don't have an adjustable needle (only one slot for the needle clip). Wouldn't hurt to ask scrappy about that.
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Post by supermel74 on Jun 8, 2010 15:40:39 GMT -5
Thanks. I'll check into that.
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