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Post by waltinhawaii on Aug 10, 2013 17:59:58 GMT -5
Hi all. Been reading a bit, as time allows; bought a mid 2000's CPI Oliver, pretty bad shape.  Hmm, photobucket seems to have changed a bit. not sure if the pics will show up. Have to bore out the cylinder mouth opening to the cases to accept new oversized 52mm bore; does anyone know if the studs are located at the same distance from the centerline of the piston? When I measure up the horizontal studs I get 2.165", and distance between the vertical studs about 2.183";  only about .018" difference, could be the studs are just a little bent; but significant enough. My chinese mill is a tiny one, and there is not enough space under the spindle to align the cases vertically with the cylinder mouth facing up, so I have to use a jig to bore out the cylinder mouth in the cases; and it requires bolting the jig to the case (this jig was designed for use in Honda type vertical cases). So... does anyone know if this is an anomaly? Are the studs supposed to be evenly spaced radially to the same distance? Or are the vertical and horizontal distances supposed to be different? aloha, walt |
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Post by waltinhawaii on Aug 10, 2013 21:07:58 GMT -5
Just split the cases. Boy, what a mess. One bearing turns roughly and stops every few degrees, there is obvious damage to the races... the other side... well, I'll just post a picture:  |
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Post by ryan on Aug 10, 2013 23:06:29 GMT -5
boring the cases only to accept a 52mm bore will not give you any more speed, you need the proper stroke in addition. if the bearings are toast you can go to autozone and borrow their bearing puller for like 15$. and the stud spacing is the same all the way up to 54mm big bore kits.
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Post by waltinhawaii on Aug 10, 2013 23:26:44 GMT -5
Sigh. Need help... just measured my new crank's end and it's too small. My old crank has the 16mm shaft on the variator side, and it uses a 12mm wristpin for the piston. The crank I bought has a 10mm wristpin. Anyone able to point me to someplace that has a 42 to 45mm crank that has the 12mm wristpin and 16mm variator shaft?
thanks,
walt
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Post by moofus02 on Aug 10, 2013 23:39:21 GMT -5
What crank you got stroke and spline and taper? I've got a45mm big spline variator and small taper Flywheel crank new no bearings.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by teddy554 on Aug 11, 2013 0:30:50 GMT -5
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Post by waltinhawaii on Aug 11, 2013 0:42:45 GMT -5
Hi Moofus. My crank has a 12mm thread on both the variator side and tapered side. The variator splined shaft is 16mm, so I don't think I can use your crank, sorry. I'll need bearings and seals as well.
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Post by waltinhawaii on Aug 11, 2013 1:09:31 GMT -5
Wow Teddy! Thanks. Just ordered it and a seal/bearing set to go with it. I also need a clutch set and springs; is the 90cc any different from the 50cc clutches?
lastly, I need a water pump... the right side cover, the water pump itself, and the 3 bolts that stick up and drive the pump. Who has the cheapest kit? I see the parts on ebay, but they seem very pricey and are from european vendors.
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Post by kevin55950 on Aug 11, 2013 3:05:37 GMT -5
Cheap water pump (mechanical) will break pretty easily and can crack your cases, making you unable to install shroud/pump after. Can even break crank, ighition, bearings or crack the case enough that it can't be reused. this one would be my choice in mechanical water pump: scootertuning.ca/en/liquid-convertion/17064-water-pump-top-performances.htmlIf you want it, mail to info@scootertuning.ca to get the correct studs. They are long and short ones, and I'm not used to mechanical pump conversion so I can't tell. I prefer electric pumps. You need to charge battery often but they are reliable. Or look for Righetti Ridolfi belt-driven water pump. The belt drive prevent cases damage in case of failure. Lots of guys ran those this year on high-end engines and had no problems. The only thing you need to do is to fabricate a bracket, which is not very hard. You'll need pump, pulley on crank, belt and bracket to run this one. |
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Post by ryan on Aug 11, 2013 9:05:50 GMT -5
Wow Teddy! Thanks. Just ordered it and a seal/bearing set to go with it. I also need a clutch set and springs; is the 90cc any different from the 50cc clutches? lastly, I need a water pump... the right side cover, the water pump itself, and the 3 bolts that stick up and drive the pump. Who has the cheapest kit? I see the parts on ebay, but they seem very pricey and are from european vendors. the clutches are not different in any way, if your interested i have a brand new 1500 malossi torque spring and i also have a clutch from my 90cc with 2k clutch springs already installed |
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Post by waltinhawaii on Aug 15, 2013 3:02:05 GMT -5
One of the main bearings...  Boring out the case mouth. This jig is for Honda cases, I borrowed it from a friend and drilled holes in it for a Minarelli pattern:  I drilled and drilled... ooops:  argh. Now I have to patch this hole. I plan on doing the trenches, though, so I will wait on the patching until the other holes make themselves known and I can patch everything at once. |
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Post by kevin55950 on Aug 15, 2013 10:43:55 GMT -5
Put epoxy before doing the trench. It's a pain to put the epoxy when there is large holes. It's easier to do touch-ups on the epoxy after you did the trench cut.
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Post by waltinhawaii on Aug 15, 2013 13:38:06 GMT -5
Thanks Kevin. I think I will give it a go by welding it up but it is in a difficult spot, the insides have to clear the cylinder (although I cut the bore a bit too much, should have taken it slower) so welding on the inside might have to be cut back to clear the skirt; from the outside, this hole is right next to a rib in the casting. Also, the aluminum here has been oil soaked for a long time... aluminum like this usually needs to be 'massaged' with the welder (i.e., you keep making passes until the metal no longer sweats out oil, or carbon at that temp); dunno, haven't made up my mind yet on the best way to attack it. I think I will just use MIG and run a bead from the outside and see what happens. Preheat will be a bear though.
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Post by 190mech on Aug 15, 2013 14:11:22 GMT -5
Some of those cases(if not most) are made out of anything that will melt..Welding can be a chore!!
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Post by waltinhawaii on Aug 15, 2013 20:57:23 GMT -5
yeah, they probably got the 2nd terminator from an old moped case. We'll have to see. If anyone's been successful at welding these cases, would appreciate the alloy info.
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