Cvt. Cover won't come off...

[stoop]

Ever since I swapped out engines, my ped gas been running fine.

Yesterday however, while 5 miles from home, it died and would not stay running. It will idle okay, but when I go to take off it surges and stops, surges and stops untill it dies.

I finnaly got it runnig and made it all the way home.

I then checked all the basics: fuel lines and vaccum lines, redid my valve adjustment to .002 intake .0025 exhaust and changed out my exhaust with the better of the two I had.

I took it around the block and it ran fine last night. When I got up this morning, that's when I did my valve adjustment.
I rode it around the block and it seemed fine, then I turned a corner and it started doing it again.

I tried to take off my cvt cover o get a look at what was underneath an two of the bolts are stripped, just the heads.

I attempted to cut a line in one of them to use a flathead screw driver, and it still just will not budge. I'm about to take a shower then I'll post a few pics of what I'm talking about.

Anyone have any idea as to why it's surgeing?

[stoop]

[90GTVert]

Try vice grips on the bolts as well. Penetrating oil. Maybe a little heat around the bolt.

When it surges, does throttle position have any affect on it? Can you keep the throttle low and move at all?

[stoop]

I never go full throttle right away. I ease into full throttle. It seems the more throttle I give the faster it dies.

[90GTVert]

I suspect it may be a carb issue. Does it act funny on the center stand?

[stoop]

Not really. I can rev it fine on the center stand and I does not seem to surge. Sometimes my rpm gauge will fly all the way past 10000 rpm just before dieing, but not everytime.
I have another carb, but it has a little rust on the exterior. I have cleaned the inside. The carb I'm using has a black plastic cap and a fixed needle under it. The other one I have is a metal top with an adjustable needle. The Idle speed screw and the metal throttle cable holder is what is rusted on the other.

Should I swap and see if I still have issues? Or reclean the one I'm using? It was just cleaned less than a month and a half ago.

[90GTVert]

I'm just wondering if you don't have debris of some sort in your carb. I've seen stuff like this from a piece of junk in the bowl that lodges and dislodges itself in different areas.

The tach shows 10K but does it rev really high before dying? It may just be one of those odd Chinese electrical problems, but if you have a spare CDI I'd swap 'em. Only takes a minute.

[stoop]

I'm currently using a performance cdi I purchased online. I have a regular non performance cdi I can swap out, but the performance cdi is less than 2 months old.

I'll check all connections to my cdi, and check the bowl of the carb for debri.

And you are correct. 10k rpm with no rev. Just a jolt in the needle that sends it skyrocketig up right before m exhaust backfires and it dies.

[Fox]

Just because something is new or fairly new doesn't mean it's functional. Plenty of new parts are faulty. Especially Chinese parts. Try swapping CDI's.

Clean the crap out of the carb and check the diaphragm for any cracks or holes.

Check for any vacuum leaks, cracks in the vacuum lines and cracks in the rubber intake elbow between the carb and the engine.

PS: Re-size your pics so they fit in the forum boundaries please.

[90GTVert]

Jun 4, 2010 19:03:45 GMT -5 Fox said:

PS: Re-size your pics so they fit in the forum boundaries please.

800x600 or 640x480 are good for posting, or use a thumbnail. I modded the original post to be a thumb.

[2strokd]

I can get those bolts out for ya stoop. I will cut em if needed, i have plenty.
Im sure i can get that puppy running good for ya also...If you want to do it, i dont
blame ya. I dont let anyone work on my stuff but a very select few. :devil:

[Fox]

The easiest way to get those bolts out is to just grind the heads off then remove the cover and the rest of the screw can be removed with a plier or your fingers since there's no pressure on the threads after the head gets lopped off.

Those bolts don't need to be torqued on with a lot of force. Regular tight is good enough. They aren't going to fly off. The same goes for just about every other bolt, nut and screw on the scooter. The only things I tighten super tight are engine mounts, the axle nuts, clutch and variator nuts, and the shock bolts.

[stoop]

Jun 4, 2010 20:14:01 GMT -5 2strokd said:

I can get those bolts out for ya stoop. I will cut em if needed, i have plenty.
Im sure i can get that puppy running good for ya also...If you want to do it, i dont
blame ya. I dont let anyone work on my stuff but a very select few.

i pm'd u with a few question.

get back at me and let me know if thats okay, if not ill try and fix it on my own of course.

[2strokd]

Jun 4, 2010 20:45:17 GMT -5 Fox said:

The easiest way to get those bolts out is to just grind the heads off then remove the cover and the rest of the screw can be removed with a plier or your fingers since there's no pressure on the threads after the head gets lopped off.

Those bolts don't need to be torqued on with a lot of force. Regular tight is good enough. They aren't going to fly off. The same goes for just about every other bolt, nut and screw on the scooter. The only things I tighten super tight are engine mounts, the axle nuts, clutch and variator nuts, and the shock bolts.

Good advice Fox.
As you know some of the nuts and bolts are way over tightened, or just not tight at all, and stripped, and missing, (ya get the point) from the factory. More than likely the cover has never been off and the bolts are being stubborn because they can.
I will get em out with my secret "spook" pliars

[Fox]

Another helpful suggestion is to use 6 point sockets instead of 12 point sockets. The 6 point sockets won't slip near as easy on the bolt heads and cause the type of damage you have there. I bought a single 6 point 8mm deep well socket for removing belt covers.