Another OLD Noob

[FrankenMech]

I think the external jet will be a good item and a reasonably priced mod also.

The airbox tube attachment clamp covers most of the intake side of the carb. I was looking at the carb last night and there may be a good spot where the wrong-enricher is now. That would not be a good spot on most people's carbs. I will have to pull the carb off and examine it closely.


BTW- The new ground straps solved the light flicker problem with the electric solenoid pump. I left the pump grounded at the same valve cover bolt just to test. I may move the ground connection later. I did blow the electric pump protection fuse somehow. It is always 'hot' unless I disconnect the battery. I have not figured out how yet... Blown fuses 'bother' me. I hate having to pull the six screws to access the battery. I don't know how you guys with all the plastic fairings deal with it. Pulling my engine shroud and under seat plastic covers is bad enough.

[Deleted]

Franken, i feel for you. to change my tailight bulb you have to remove plastics from the front so the side fairings will come off. almost all the plastic has to come off. when they need changing, theyre getting LED's.

[FrankenMech]

Nah, I feel for you other guys. Hell if it was me I would leave everything off, strip it down to the essentials. The only reason my plastic stays on is to make it just a little bit harder for some idiot to mess with it. Otherwise some turkey would probably steal the battery, clip out all the wires for the copper, and drain the fuel since I 'obviously' did not want any of that stuff. That thieving life philosophy really tees me off.

[dan50]

Lanternscooter, I went to LED taillights for the same reason. Completely disassembled the body to get the housing off to get to the bulb from behind.

[FrankenMech]

I have been collecting parts for modifications. It is scooter riding weather so I RIDE!

I am waiting for either a breakdown or some bad weather days to take the scoot apart. I have an oil change and PM coming up which may force the issue.

I used a superbright LED 1157R from O-Really Auto UPC# 6-9846111570-0 for my stop-turn bulb. It was a bit pricy but it works properly and does not leak current into the other circuits. The 24 LED 'third/second' brake light is working. I will be working on improving the mounting for it and the strobe lights.

I have two Harbor Freight LED stop-tail lights item#67064 to mount on either side of my license plate. I also have two amber LED side marker lights item#98070 for the sides of my battery box. One cannot have too much light on these scoots at night. The single red tail light looks awful lonely at night even with being an LED unit.

I purchased a Harley Davidson accessory headlight with a H4 bulb to run at night with a switch to run alternately with my main LED daytime headlights. The two LED white clearance lights will still come on with the ignition switch.

I purchased some 10A diodes and 2200uf 35V capacitors to filter the headlight power. It is an experiment that seemed to work before when I gave it a temporary try. It solved that headlight flicker at idle problem and made the headlight voltage read properly on a meter.

I have circuit breakers ready to install on all of the scoot circuits. That will get rid of the fuses used now.

I have a new replacement CV carb coming to study very carefully and modify with the fore mentioned externally adjustable jet. It is a performance carb that may not even require the external jet to run properly with a wide open modified airbox. I have been told that most of them work best with an open uncovered 'performance' filter. I prefer to keep my OEM type filter box since I ride in rain and snow. That will keep my existing carb that 'works' now as a spare in case I really screw something up. None of the suppliers that advertise here had carbs similar to mine so I had to go to ebay. The carbs I use have an auto enrich circuit that can be easily blocked with a gasket or plate on the side. I won't be using the auto enrich circuit device. That will leave a nice spot to install the external jet.

I am still working on a muffler setup that will make this a 'stealthy' scooter. I have the OEM muffler case to 'play' with. It is still too damn loud for my taste. I see much quieter scoots all the time. Of course my ear is only 3' from the tail pipe... I can also adapt a regular car muffler.

[FrankenMech]

The new carb arrived and is extremely well made. I hope it works as is because I am not going to test it before I start the modifications. The mods should be super easy also. There is a boss on the carb near where I need to add the external jet. The jet instructions say to mount it from 10-2 O'clock but that nice heave boss is at 3 O'clock. I am thinking it will work just fine. The bowl drain will provide a source for the jet gasoline. I filter my fuel real well but I may have to add a little sintered brass filter to the line. The carb did come with a tiny little fuel filter though......

www.ebay.com/itm/150749621882
Ebay item #150749621882 if the link does not work.

If the carb works as is with an open airbox the external jet may only be needed in the winter time. The enricher has been removed and I am making a block-off plate for it. I don't need that space for the external jet but it has been removed anyway.

I ordered a muffler for an 85 Honda Civic for $40 delivered in stainless to try for the noise.

Scoots are so much fun to modify!!!

Now I just have to quit riding the thing all the time....

[2TDave]

A muffler for a civic? I want some pics when you get it on.

[FrankenMech]

Yeah, it is supposed to be a Walker Quietflow SS # 22266 that fits an 85 civic hatchback w/1.3 or 1.5L engine:

Inlet Configuration: Centered
Inlet Inside Diameter: 1.500 in
Inlet Quantity: 1
Internal Construction: Combination
OE Replacement: Direct OE Replacement
Outlet Configuration: Offset
Outlet Inside Diameter: 1.500 in
Outlet Quantity: 1
Outlet Type: Pipe Connection
Overall Length: 18.000 in
Reversible: No
Shell Diameter Height: 3.250 in
Shell Diameter Width: 7.750 in
Shell Length: 15.000 in <-------Actually 13.75"
Shell Material: Stainless Steel
Shell Shape: Oval


The overall length is actually shorter than what I have on there now. Even with a 1.5" turndown it should still be shorter. My problem is being able to shrink the 1.5" ID inlet tube down to fit my 1.25" OD exhaust pipe. That will take a lot of hammering and clamping to get it down that far. I do have a decent tube expander to get it all round again after bludgeoning it. A 1/8" thick bushing would work also. I will just have to see if I have anything in my scrap bin.

[2TDave]

I would think a bushing would be much easier. Maybe check out McMaster.

[moofus02]

You should be able to get a bushing at a parts store for a few bucks

Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards

[FrankenMech]

Thanks guys, I will do that. I am looking to do something 'short' and not add to the length. Fastening the muffler to my existing muffler frame may be a challenge also. My brains got fuzzy last night while I was looking at the fitment problem. I will wait until I hear it run to see if I need a 90° turndown on the end. I can always use my present 2-1/2" chrome turndown or a fart cannon on the end.

[FrankenMech]

I ended up getting a short length of Chrome Molly DOM tubing with a 1.5" OD and 0.120 wall thickness from www.airpartsinc.com/ -None of the parts stores had anything in that size range for adapters or bushings. 1.5" SS clamps were hard to find but SpeedwayMotors.com had them. At $8 they were pricy but nobody else I found had them in that size. They were not out of line for what everyone else wanted for the 2"+ sizes.

Now I just need to get well enough to install all these mods.

[2TDave]

Looking forward to more on the exhaust. Feel better and take care of yourself damn it!

[liftit]

Looks like a cheap dial-a-jet. My family always ran those on our snowmobiles. As the day would go on, it would get warmer and your altitude would also change. Made it a lot easier to keep the machines going. Same company that makes the dial-a-jet also makes some other neat products. The Intellijet sounds nice for easy tuning. Pricey though: www.thunderproducts.com/IntelaJet.htm

[FrankenMech]

The dial-a-jet, and the Intelajet both seem to produce an air-fuel emulsion. That remote adjustment knob would certainly be nice for many applications. The Power-Jet-Kit just meters fuel.
www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=440&cat=362&page=1