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Post by oldgeek on Oct 4, 2015 0:38:20 GMT -5
Break her in. Wot blips to build cylinder pressure, then rest it. And hit it some more. I'm a bit fussy about breakin um in. But it has worked for me. I avoid the ride it like you stole it, on iron kits. It might work on nikasil. but on Iron? I have been thinking about my break in procedure, which is ride it like I stole it. I know you have some VERY high mileage rides using a low and slow break-in method, I may have to convert! I think most of the issues I have are dumb self inflicted, or stupid random failures. I guess it wouldent kill me to take it easy on a build for once? I have very little self control, so we will see what happens this time around!
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Post by katastroff on Oct 4, 2015 6:58:45 GMT -5
Break her in. Wot blips to build cylinder pressure, then rest it. And hit it some more. I'm a bit fussy about breakin um in. But it has worked for me. I avoid the ride it like you stole it, on iron kits. It might work on nikasil. but on Iron? I have been thinking about my break in procedure, which is ride it like I stole it. I know you have some VERY high mileage rides using a low and slow break-in method, I may have to convert! I think most of the issues I have are dumb self inflicted, or stupid random failures. I guess it wouldent kill me to take it easy on a build for once? I have very little self control, so we will see what happens this time around! I remember when i took delivery of my scooter. I was in the parking lot with the owner and he explained to me about the starter, the kick start, checking the oil and how to drive it for the break in period. No more then 1/2 throttle for the first 250 km. No more then 3/4 throttle for the next 250 km. I listened carefully, then i just went WOT as i left the parking lot.
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 7, 2015 22:16:14 GMT -5
I finally got around to putting the plastics back on the Zip today so I could ride it. To my surprise it still knocked quite a bit at times. So I did what I should have done in the first place and installed a head gasket. Problem solved! I have not measured the compression or the squish since adding the head gasket, but it is not knocking at all now. Anyway with that problem finally behind me I spent some time tuning the carb. I could not get the torque I have had previously on this build to show up, so I tried advancing the timing a bit. This time it made a noticeable difference. I used a center punch to make some marks on the stator so I can keep track of how much I am moving it. So now I am back to the point I was at quite a while ago before the reeds failed. I am in the middle of testing the BWS 100 CVT parts and comparing them to the stock/Hoca stuff. On a side note, As I was leaving the warehouse in my Chevy work van, just as I pulled out onto the busy highway I heard a loud pop, I thought it was a tire blowing out but before I could pull over it did it 2 more times. It turned out to be a bad wheel bearing on the left front. I was finally able to back it up to a safer area by pulling forward and backward a bunch. The tow truck finally came and took it to a auto shop for me.
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 8, 2015 17:16:15 GMT -5
Well I spoke too soon! It is up to its same old game of "You cant tune me you dumb***" It seemed ok for a while then it just started deteriorating.
I pulled the variator off and I believe it is leaking at that seal because there is some oil mist there now. I feel that it has something to do with the polished crank journals I tried on this build. Possibly the crank is sliding in the seals side to side and jacking the seals up? Or it could be my inability to install a seal without jacking it up at least a little bit. LoL!
Anyway I may try a new seal or I may just abandon this build. I think it is time to work on something else.
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 9, 2015 7:42:18 GMT -5
I was worried about it at first, but my polished crank slides in and out and moves in the seals and I haven't had trouble with the seals. As long as it's all smooth, I don't think that should be a problem.
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Post by Corrosion on Oct 9, 2015 12:56:53 GMT -5
You can check the amount of play present subtract the wanted clearance. Divide by 2 and place that amount of shims between the crank and each bearing. You can get shims at McMaster Carr. This is common practice in building electric, water pumps. www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3255/=zalyls
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 26, 2015 23:20:13 GMT -5
This build is over. I have had it with the Zip, and its hard to work on wishbone motor mount. I pulled the parts off of the cases and used the bandsaw to cut all of the bearings out of the cases so I could reuse them elsewhere. The cases were thin krap anyway IMO. I still have the original un modified motor cases that were on this scoot, it needs a new crank, but ATM I don't even feel like slapping a 50cc together to throw on this scoot to sell it.
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Post by niz76 on Nov 26, 2015 23:29:10 GMT -5
O boy sounds like she's done! Yes that danged wishbone motor mount does suck! Can't even take it off from the other end without removing the intake, and it's difficult to get the mount bolt back in by yourself. The Vento Zips are a PITA! Right up there with prebug stock airboxes and trying to get to a Jog carb lol.
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 26, 2015 23:45:07 GMT -5
Yeah niz76 It was my first build above 70cc and I learned a lot from it, but it sure was a time consuming scooter. I look forward to building another 90cc+ sooner or later, but the next one will be a longcase for sure. Right now I want to work with the 70cc Streetrace, and build a decent motor for my Kymco super fever that uses the AF16 clone motor.
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Post by nelson on Nov 28, 2015 1:51:37 GMT -5
Sucks to hear all of your problems with your motor. I think I built my right before you did. I don't think you replaced the crank a bearing and such? Correct me if I missed it? Didn't I just get a running atv case. He'll I dunno but that sucks man:( I am considering a 70 build here soon. Something more than a sport cylinder, and I don't want a pipe with internal baffle, just ruins the sound for me.good luck man!
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