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Post by nuclearchrist on May 21, 2014 23:44:53 GMT -5
Ok guys, I was told by my scooter Dealer, the employes at an autoparts store, and by people on online forums that the shell rotella triple protection 15w-40 diesel motor oil was ok to use in my scooter. I called around many places and they told me this was ok to put in my engine. It's not! I REPEAT, IT'S NOT OK TO PUT THAT SHIT IN A MOPAD/SCOOTER ENGINE. Use motorcycle engine oil. Its made to withstand high temperatures in a motorcycle. The temperature of a mopad/scooter/motorcycle can get as high as 500 degrees and anything but motorcycle oil will break down the oil and make it useless. Diesel engines only get as high as 200 degrees. My engine runs and sounds alot better when changed it out today. Please, if you dont have the right type of oil in your scooter, please change it out asap.
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Post by dan50 on May 22, 2014 0:06:10 GMT -5
Good observation. Live & learn.
My owners manuals say to use 10w40 in the engines, 1P39QMB.
A high temp oil in a scooter is a good idea since they are air cooled.
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Post by scooterpimp on May 22, 2014 4:45:27 GMT -5
15w40 ,10w40 are fine change it when your supposed to & dont run oil level low & you will be ok. Didn't have fancy cycle specific oil back in the day & look at all the old motorcycles that are still on the move...p.s. oil cooled turbo diesels (tier-4) run as hot as many gasoline engines. & they run high rpm's nowadays...too...
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Post by Upgrayedd on May 22, 2014 6:58:46 GMT -5
Ok guys, I was told by my scooter Dealer, the employes at an autoparts store, and by people on online forums that the shell rotella triple protection 15w-40 diesel motor oil was ok to use in my scooter. I called around many places and they told me this was ok to put in my engine. It's not! I REPEAT, IT'S NOT OK TO PUT THAT SHIT IN A MOPAD/SCOOTER ENGINE. Use motorcycle engine oil. Its made to withstand high temperatures in a motorcycle. The temperature of a mopad/scooter/motorcycle can get as high as 500 degrees and anything but motorcycle oil will break down the oil and make it useless. Diesel engines only get as high as 200 degrees. My engine runs and sounds alot better when changed it out today. Please, if you dont have the right type of oil in your scooter, please change it out asap. No offense but uhhhhhh..... I've been running Rotella for years in everything I own and Ill be sticking with it. Not sure where you got your info but... you are wrong my friend. I'm off to the hospital for the day so I wont be around, maybe someone else will explain it to you. Diesels only go up to 200 degrees? Someone gave you bad info.
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Post by nuclearchrist on May 22, 2014 11:34:28 GMT -5
get you some motorcycle oil and put that in you scooter and see if it dont run better and quieter when you take it up to high rpms.
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Post by flqu06 on May 22, 2014 14:52:48 GMT -5
I have used Rotella T6 for a long time. Got some Royal Purple oil 4T discontinued at work for 2.50 a quart. No difference at all.
If you google it you will find that most people who have motorcycles run Rotella. Rotella has some of the highest zinc content that specifically makes it better than most oils out of the bottle. The fact that your scoot runs fine and doesnt use oil should tell you something.
Why a Diesel Engine Needs Special Care
Diesel engines operate at twice the compression ratio of gasoline engines; create greater internal pressures and heat. Components are made to closer tolerances, therefore are more easily damaged by dirt, corrosion improper fuel and lubricants.
Diesel injectors are expensive precision parts that handle fuel pressures as high as 137,900 kPa. Using correct diesel fuel is essential because it not only runs the engine, but also lubricates and cools the fuel pump, injectors and spray tip.
Dripping or leaking injectors can cause rough engine operation, destructive unbalanced cylinder temperatures, crankcase oil dilution and incomplete combustion. Because of diesel fuel’s acid content, combustion by-products are more corrosive. Greater diesel heat also converts combustion by-products to varnish inside the engine more rapidly.
Dirt and water by passing fuel filters can badly score fuel pump and injectors, requiring replacement. Rust can cause sticking in pump pressure regulator valves. Water in fuel can also cause hard starting, uneven running and frequent stalling.
Because diesel engines breathe more air per hour than gasoline engines, air leaks through cracks, loose connections or holes in flexible hoses can cause serious and expensive engine damage. Clogged air filters reduce power.
Diesel engines make more use of oil as coolant because of greater heat and pressure. For example, the oil cools piston undersides. Improperly or inadequately filtered oil can cause scoring and damaging of engine parts. Inadequate circulation of oil and coolant can cause engine overheating and thermal distortion.
Poor quality fuel can cause hard starting, incomplete combustion with varnish build-up, smoky exhaust, and plugged fuel filters in cold weather.
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Post by scooterpimp on May 22, 2014 16:58:02 GMT -5
get you some motorcycle oil and put that in you scooter and see if it dont run better and quieter when you take it up to high rpms. Diesel trucks run 15w40 & they can clock a million miles before needing overhaul. I think the 49cc should be fine .
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Post by Fox on May 22, 2014 23:08:58 GMT -5
The scooter engines do not have a wet clutch so running MC oil in them is throwing money away. Don't believe the hype the dealers tell you. MC oils are formulated with friction modifiers so the clutches operate correctly. A scooter engine is a glorified lawn mower engine. It is completely isolated from the transmission which uses gear oil again, due to the lack of a wet clutch. The proper oils for scooters are motor oils. Plain old motor oils. 10-40, 5-30 etc...
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Post by craisin on May 23, 2014 2:10:55 GMT -5
The scooter engines do not have a wet clutch so running MC oil in them is throwing money away. Don't believe the hype the dealers tell you. MC oils are formulated with friction modifiers so the clutches operate correctly. A scooter engine is a glorified lawn mower engine. It is completely isolated from the transmission which uses gear oil again, due to the lack of a wet clutch. The proper oils for scooters are motor oils. Plain old motor oils. 10-40, 5-30 etc... I agree with this post Maximum RPM is only acheived a short percentage of the time I will be using MC oil in my Motorcycle for sure cause it has a wet clutch. I have a 2T scooter too it gets 2T oil My 4T scooter has had Nulon used in it and stationary engine oil
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 27, 2014 21:47:19 GMT -5
i thought that you didnt want friction modifiers with wet clutches. the razz gets oil tn the chaincase (clutch) without friction mods. i specifically looked for it that way
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Post by Upgrayedd on May 27, 2014 22:23:24 GMT -5
i thought that you didnt want friction modifiers with wet clutches. the razz gets oil tn the chaincase (clutch) without friction mods. i specifically looked for it that way yessir/mam, the oils that have the molybdenum add pack (generally marked as 'energy conserving') can cause wet clutches to slip. Motorcycle and Diesel Oils have hardly any MolyB (except Chevron Delo, which has a fair bit of Moly) they instead have a Zinc&Phosphorous additive pack, which is wet clutch friendly, and also does a very good job of coating and protecting the internal parts of an engine. engines with flat tappet cams fare a lot better with a zinc pack, as it really protects them. a lot of classic car builders run the same oils in their rigs as opposed to the new car oils.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 27, 2014 23:37:25 GMT -5
i thought that you didnt want friction modifiers with wet clutches. the razz gets oil tn the chaincase (clutch) without friction mods. i specifically looked for it that way yessir/mam, the oils that have the molybdenum add pack (generally marked as 'energy conserving') can cause wet clutches to slip. Motorcycle and Diesel Oils have hardly any MolyB (except Chevron Delo, which has a fair bit of Moly) they instead have a Zinc&Phosphorous additive pack, which is wet clutch friendly, and also does a very good job of coating and protecting the internal parts of an engine. engines with flat tappet cams fare a lot better with a zinc pack, as it really protects them. a lot of classic car builders run the same oils in their rigs as opposed to the new car oils. as i suspected. thanks for confirming that. i run minibikes as well and use the hi zinc stuff in the older briggs engines and honda clone engines and it seems to do really well.
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Post by hawaiigy6moder on May 28, 2014 0:57:28 GMT -5
I use castor pure synthetic 15-50 in my bikes, and haven't had a issue ever
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rpmcycleservice
Scoot Member
looking forwards to the zombie apocalypse!!
Posts: 50
Location: here......right here....
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Post by rpmcycleservice on Jun 2, 2014 13:32:49 GMT -5
I agree with the rotella in a bike.....I have worked in the industry for more than 20 years now and rotella is a excellent oil for bikes....wet clutch or not....we run it in a alcohol injected micro sprint with a Kawasaki zx6 636 cc engine that sees 15k plus rpm all night long......it flat gets the job done!
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Post by Upgrayedd on Jun 2, 2014 13:41:26 GMT -5
I agree with the rotella in a bike.....I have worked in the industry for more than 20 years now and rotella is a excellent oil for bikes....wet clutch or not....we run it in a alcohol injected micro sprint with a Kawasaki zx6 636 cc engine that sees 15k plus rpm all night long......it flat gets the job done! i suspect some worrying may be unnecessarily due to valvetrain noise, and / or other engine noises. the thing is though, air cooled engines tend to make a little more noise... the old air cooled BMWs had a whole symphony of noises to go along with the valve clatter. a little valve clatter is normal, id worry more if and when i don't hear anything out of them.
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