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Post by milly on May 28, 2024 15:03:55 GMT -5
Cleaned scooter and started making up throttle cable as time allowed today.  |
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Post by FrankenMech on May 28, 2024 20:18:31 GMT -5
The sight of all that sheet metal 'basketry' around that engine area made cuts magically appear all over my hands. Must be some sort of sympathetic reaction felt all the way across the pond. I hope it all isn't as sharp as those kinds of metal parts usually are. I also hope it is not as bloody hard to work on as it looks.
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Post by aeroxbud on May 29, 2024 3:22:18 GMT -5
I also hope it is not as bloody hard to work on as it looks. Yes it is. I hated working on the Mrs one. It has a one piece rear plastic section that covered everything. Some of the parts are very awkward to get to. That's what happens when you put an engine designed for another bike into something different. Even getting the CVT cover off is a right pain. |
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Post by FrankenMech on May 29, 2024 3:58:06 GMT -5
We have 'laugh' and 'like' buttons, where is the 'sympathy' button.... Maybe we even need this one  or  |
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Post by aeroxbud on May 29, 2024 5:33:18 GMT -5
We have 'laugh' and 'like' buttons, where is the 'sympathy' button.... Maybe we even need this one or Milly never learns. He need a nice Peugeot scooter in his life. |
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Post by billwill on May 29, 2024 6:00:54 GMT -5
This was yesterday but I'm guess it's still post worthy - finally fixed a high RPM sputter I've been dealing with for quite some time. Turns out the stock ignition I guess just doesn't have much juice in her.
Fixed it for now by gapping plugs down to .016".
Before:
After:
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Post by FrankenMech on May 29, 2024 12:58:15 GMT -5
The ignition operating voltage depends on the dynamic compression and the gap minus any leakage, a matter of simple physics. The larger the gap and the higher the dynamic compression the harder it is to jump that gap. Sharp edges or sharp points are also easier to jump. Unfortunately when the voltage rises it can also jump to ground through leak paths anywhere in the system which will cause a miss. The miss can come and go when the throttle is opened or varied. Most people have no idea how an ignition system actually works and there is a LOT of misinformation out there. The internet has done nothing to stop the myths.
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Post by milly on May 29, 2024 13:35:21 GMT -5
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Post by billwill on May 29, 2024 13:56:37 GMT -5
The ignition operating voltage depends on the dynamic compression and the gap minus any leakage, a matter of simple physics. The larger the gap and the higher the dynamic compression the harder it is to jump that gap. Sharp edges or sharp points are also easier to jump. Unfortunately when the voltage rises it can also jump to ground through leak paths anywhere in the system which will cause a miss. The miss can come and go when the throttle is opened or varied. Most people have no idea how an ignition system actually works and there is a LOT of misinformation out there. The internet has done nothing to stop the myths. Its not so simple to me LOL - I consider myself pretty capable but when it comes to electrical, I'll be the first to admit I have TONS to learn. So... is this safe/ok to leave as is with a gap of .016"? Should I try stepping it up incrementally until it starts to misfire again and then close it back up a little bit to get a more complete burn? Should I throw on the aftermarket ignition I have now? |
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Post by FrankenMech on May 29, 2024 19:33:52 GMT -5
At least you are willing to learn and experiment. You can open the gap up until it starts to misfire then back off to get a max figure with a new plug. Then reduce that for reliability and to work with a mildly worn plug. Remember to change the plug often if needed. A used plug has rounded edges and is therefore harder to fire. You may also want to look at a colder plug. Your aftermarket ignition may help but then it may fail easier. The standard factory ignition systems are fairly hard to beat reliability wise. Remember the plug wire insulation and plug insulator leak paths limit the firing voltage and therefore the plug gap that can be used. Always use silicone dielectric grease (spark plug grease) on the spark plug boot. A complete burn is the least of your worries. Keeping the plug threads from wearing out may be difficult. Using a good thread anti-seize may help just do not contaminate the plug insulator.
You are correct in thinking the resistor plugs reduce the secondary ignition system RF noise which will translate into less RF noise for your neighbors and also less RF interference on things like your tach operation.
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Post by billwill on May 30, 2024 5:50:04 GMT -5
At least you are willing to learn and experiment. You can open the gap up until it starts to misfire then back off to get a max figure with a new plug. Then reduce that for reliability and to work with a mildly worn plug. Remember to change the plug often if needed. A used plug has rounded edges and is therefore harder to fire. You may also want to look at a colder plug. Your aftermarket ignition may help but then it may fail easier. The standard factory ignition systems are fairly hard to beat reliability wise. Remember the plug wire insulation and plug insulator leak paths limit the firing voltage and therefore the plug gap that can be used. Always use silicone dielectric grease (spark plug grease) on the spark plug boot. A complete burn is the least of your worries. Keeping the plug threads from wearing out may be difficult. Using a good thread anti-seize may help just do not contaminate the plug insulator. You are correct in thinking the resistor plugs reduce the secondary ignition system RF noise which will translate into less RF noise for your neighbors and also less RF interference on things like your tach operation. Got it thanks for taking the time to respond. I actually tried a step colder plug yesterday and it didn't seem to have much of an effect on things. Right now I am just running a motoforce coil and plug wire with the threaded cap. When I switch to the MVT dd setup I am going to switch back to using the NGK wire and cap that uses the standard spark plug tip. Its interesting you mention dielectric grease. I have some and usually hit electric connections with it on all of my vehicles whenever I am in there working on them. I didn't know this should be used on plugs/plug caps, but it makes sense and I'm going to throw some in the plug cap. I picked up some fresh resistor plugs yesterday and am going to throw a new one in today for some testing. |
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Post by FrankenMech on May 30, 2024 6:18:05 GMT -5
The colder plug may help keep electrode wear down a little for reliability but may increase fouling.
Dielectric grease has been used for many years on spark plugs. Damn near as long as I can remember. Way before it was commonly used on normal electrical connections back in the 70's. Why do you think it is called spark plug grease LOL
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Post by milly on May 30, 2024 9:48:22 GMT -5
Finished off almost other than the oil pan change over. Glad I had some silencer matting damn exhaust was noisy on first start up. A lot better now   |
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Post by money123 on May 30, 2024 20:05:45 GMT -5
Got my phone holder on and my cheeky seat cover looks amazing. Now week ago put a new shock on also. Im just putting on a bar pad between handlebars rockstar energy drink thats IT! Riding into ground after that.   |
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Post by milly on Jun 2, 2024 6:11:12 GMT -5
Today I am riding now the sun is out, Brent's T shirt got some comments about naked riding 😊  |
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