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Post by 2TDave on Oct 29, 2014 5:24:12 GMT -5
What electric water pump are you using? I've seen some radiators w/o fill caps and some with. If there isn't one I guess you'd have to mount a bottle with a cap?
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Post by moofus02 on Oct 29, 2014 7:41:24 GMT -5
Remote fill/pressure caps are common on race car apps etc some factory cars also shouldn't be to hard to come up with if needed
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by niz76 on Oct 29, 2014 7:46:52 GMT -5
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Post by 2TDave on Oct 29, 2014 7:54:07 GMT -5
Yeah that is a sweet looking pump. The Bosch is pricey. I'm trying to get a layout if where all this will go. Also need to figure out an inner rotor ignition that that would power lights and a pump. I suppose a tank could go where the old oil tank was.
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Post by moofus02 on Oct 29, 2014 8:04:23 GMT -5
Yeah that is a sweet looking pump. The Bosch is pricey. I'm trying to get a layout if where all this will go. Also need to figure out an inner rotor ignition that that would power lights and a pump. I suppose a tank could go where the old oil tank was. Inner rotor powering the pump might be tough to accomplish Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards |
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Post by 2TDave on Oct 29, 2014 8:16:26 GMT -5
Yeah, and I'd rather not have the drag of a mechanical pump. This is all the very early planning stages.
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Post by niz76 on Oct 29, 2014 10:28:28 GMT -5
Yeah, and I'd rather not have the drag of a mechanical pump. This is all the very early planning stages. I read somewhere that just going from a/c to l/c gives 2hp! because the l/c impeller is so much less drag than a fan- wonder how much l/c with a pump adds!? |
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Post by x7rocks on Oct 29, 2014 14:37:17 GMT -5
The pump I have is aesthetically similar to the one posted up. But a chinese unit I found for 40 dollars.
The cr85 radiator has a fill cap built so I water her up and go
I ran into an issue, my ncy rotor kit has bit the dust. No spark at all when I kick over. And id hate to install a heavy flywheel.
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Post by x7rocks on Oct 29, 2014 17:48:01 GMT -5
Welp three hours later. Got my waterpump wired to my battery. And she fired first kick! My phone was dead so im gonna finish up the wire mess and make a vid so you guys can see the pump working.
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Post by 2TDave on Oct 29, 2014 18:00:44 GMT -5
Do you feel the heat from the radiator and is one enough for cooling?
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Post by x7rocks on Oct 29, 2014 18:33:54 GMT -5
It was warm to the touch. Cylinder not so much lol.
Idle was a consistent 55c to 67c with a fan in front, so far no running yet im making sure the cylinder temps and pump survive individual intervals of revs.
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Post by x7rocks on Oct 31, 2014 10:21:49 GMT -5
Well my stator must be shot, when I rev it just sputters constantly. Luckily I have one more spare one. What should I do with the ncy ignition? What could have caused a brand new rotor ignition to go wrong.
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 31, 2014 10:31:01 GMT -5
Are you still using the NCY CDI with the new stator? Not sure what the timing is like on those. Prob not the issue, but maybe worth a quick try. Checked your outputs for ign power and trigger out of the stator? Should be something like 0.5VAC for the trigger and 50VAC or more for power to the CDI when the harness is unplugged and you kick it over.
Sure the new setup isn't just way rich?
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Post by x7rocks on Oct 31, 2014 10:56:36 GMT -5
Hmmm I tried the ncy cdi no cigar.
My idle jet is a tad rich, but I noticed when reinstalling my stock ignition my spark is orange :/ that not good..
So far my jetting on the phbg 21 is 95 main, w7 needle, 35 idle jet with a 40 slide.
As for voltage im not getting any readings on the stator wires or the cdi unit. Almost makes no sense. All I did is remove the ignition .
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 31, 2014 11:13:30 GMT -5
I'm not sure how you can have 0 voltage and make any spark. It's gotta be supplying some power the the CDI and triggering it. Don't mean to state the obvious, but just to be sure... mulitmeter is set to AC, red probe is in one of the two output wires from the stator, other probe is on a good ground? Good ground to the engine? There is also a BWS/Zuma manual on the site (see sig) that tells resistances for stock stators and coils.
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