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Post by jhobe6678 on Sept 20, 2014 20:24:29 GMT -5
Next time you have the fan side cover of make sure the flywheel isn't hitting the ignition pickup. I'm not sure what the speck is for the gap between the two but that could be a source of the noise. *blinks* Hold on, let me go get my French to WTF to English dictionary. LOL Maybe I'll look tomorrow? Do I have to take the fan off to check? Do you have a pic for reference? What are you doing tomorrow? I have beer and techno music??? HAH! |
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Post by niz76 on Sept 20, 2014 20:32:49 GMT -5
What you DON'T want to see: That scratch on the flywheel looks like it hit the pickup at some point.  |
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Post by 2TDave on Sept 20, 2014 20:43:26 GMT -5
Thanks Niz. Dude beer and techno? I had to give up the beer when I developed an allergy to it and broke out in handcuffs when I drank. Techno I gave up when the rolls turned to crap. Now I'm just old and married. Lol
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Post by jhobe6678 on Sept 20, 2014 20:49:32 GMT -5
Thanks Niz. Dude beer and techno? I had to give up the beer when I developed an allergy to it and broke out in handcuffs when I drank. Techno I gave up when the rolls turned to crap. Now I'm just old and married. Lol Well then. I have organic cranberry juice and Yo-Yo Ma? lol Married. *shudders* Thank god the GF isn't looking to get married again ahah. Well I gave it a shot lol. Niz, I LOVE YOU MAN! That's perfect, I'll take a look tomorrow. When there's light out and the bats err, mosquitoes aren't looking to eat me alive.  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 21, 2014 7:29:52 GMT -5
Down to about 0.010" is good clearance, up to around 0.030". A credit card is around 0.030" usually, so a quick check is to see if there's plenty of room for one or if it's snug or won't fit at all.  |
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Post by jhobe6678 on Sept 21, 2014 8:29:35 GMT -5
Thanks Brent, that's a good pic too for reference! So I think the plug I have is wrong. I ordered what the Baccio called for and it turned out to be wrong (C7HSA) so I pulled the plug that was in there and went to Autozone and got a BR6HS. On Partsforscooters.com I see they reccomend a BPR7HIX (wtf? 9.99?) but the manual I found for the 1E40QMB engine recommends the BPR8HS. So wtf? I know the 7,8,9 in the number mean the heat. The "R" means there's a resister in there. What the hell do I get ? I'm tempted to order a couple to try out. But which ones? |
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 21, 2014 9:25:32 GMT -5
The C7HSA is what the 4T 139QMB/GY6 scoots use. I usually use an NGK BR8HS in mine. The NGK's with the IX suffix are iridium, so they're expensive. BR8HIX would be the iridium version of the BR8HS for example.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Sept 21, 2014 10:01:00 GMT -5
The C7HSA is what the 4T 139QMB/GY6 scoots use. I usually use an NGK BR8HS in mine. The NGK's with the IX suffix are iridium, so they're expensive. BR8HIX would be the iridium version of the BR8HS for example. But do I need the iridium? I may be able to get the plugs local. I'm wondering if that's what the knocking sound at low idle is now. A cold plug. Hmm. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 21, 2014 10:19:59 GMT -5
You do not need to use iridium spark plugs. They are more resistant to fouling and may make hard starting scoots fire up easier, but they are not necessary.
The 6 is actually a hot plug. Not too sure it's good for the scoot. Most don't go hotter than a 7, 8 is very common, and with high revving aftermarket kits some suggest going to a 9.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Sept 21, 2014 10:52:58 GMT -5
You do not need to use iridium spark plugs. They are more resistant to fouling and may make hard starting scoots fire up easier, but they are not necessary. The 6 is actually a hot plug. Not too sure it's good for the scoot. Most don't go hotter than a 7, 8 is very common, and with high revving aftermarket kits some suggest going to a 9. Oh, I thought it was the opposite? I dunno, I didn't dig deep enough to find the right explanation as to the numbers. Maybe i'll put up a 7 and 8. I do plan on putting a BBK on it at some point but I'd imagine the 8 would be good for that. At $3 a piece, it's worth me trying a few. I'm still concerned as to why I'm not getting a compression reading though from the damn thing. 2 testors and did everything suggested. I even put some thread tape on the adapter. I'm sure I'm doing it wrong though. |
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Post by niz76 on Sept 21, 2014 13:18:24 GMT -5
I found this interesting. Notice the difference in length. Both NGK. The BP7HS I was buying is longer at the electrode end than the BR8HS... I had a few electrodes get smashed down to 0 gap using the longer with tight squish clearance. No worries with the BR8HS now... Got them at Advanced Auto for $3 or so each...  |
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Post by jhobe6678 on Sept 21, 2014 13:21:26 GMT -5
So here's a video. Sorry for the audio quality, this is just to give you an idea of how it sounds. I guess I should consider recording this with a better camera and not my tablet.  I hope the video works? |
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Post by jhobe6678 on Sept 21, 2014 13:26:41 GMT -5
I found this interesting. Notice the difference in length. Both NGK. The BP7HS I was buying is longer at the electrode end than the BR8HS... I had a few electrodes get smashed down to 0 gap using the longer with tight squish clearance. No worries with the BR8HS now... Got them at Advanced Auto for $3 or so each... Well I just went and picked up a BPR7HS and BPR8HS (the 8 was an autolite, they didn't have an NGK in stock and it's only $2 for testing purpose). So fingers crossed here. Hey, you wouldn't happen to know where the rectifier is would ya? So I don't have to tear the WHOLE thing apart looking for it? I'm ordering it today. |
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Post by 2TDave on Sept 21, 2014 13:49:19 GMT -5
Of it's what I'm thinking they are often under the bar plastics near the horn. Mounted to the frame. Maybe someone can help with for electrical knowledge.
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 21, 2014 14:03:31 GMT -5
Tough to tell what that sound may be in the vid. If you can, take the variator off and see if the sound is still there. I remove the vari stuff and belt then install the nut and use an electric drill in reverse to start the engine. Even in person I have trouble figuring out where noises are because everything is so close together, so this eliminates the whole CVT as a potential cause. I found this interesting. Notice the difference in length. Both NGK. The BP7HS I was buying is longer at the electrode end than the BR8HS... I had a few electrodes get smashed down to 0 gap using the longer with tight squish clearance. No worries with the BR8HS now... Got them at Advanced Auto for $3 or so each... The P in the plug code is for projected tip. |
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I hope the video works?