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Post by pitobread on Sept 5, 2018 21:27:26 GMT -5
Took your advice. Those were just some default thingers in Vegas. Ordered a typhoon 125 wheel to satisfy a curiosity. It fits perfectly. If you want to 2t swap your piaggio/aprilia 4t 50cc just buy one of those. Brake rotor fits too
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Post by pitobread on Sept 5, 2018 18:49:59 GMT -5
Yeah one of the cheapest bikes you could buy at the time.
This one will hopefully be a little 20hp monster.
I've been doing some research and the MX 100 motor I have here is 16hp stock, and the cylinder is the same bolt pattern. And they are the same 45.6mm stroke. These rs100 are 11 hp from the factory.
Or I want to source a 76 YZ100 basket case engine and steal the barrel and crank out of that it is a 50x50.
I'm really excited to make the pipe. I started the calculations today. May start that next
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Post by pitobread on Sept 5, 2018 11:04:45 GMT -5
A few years ago I Almost bought a Derbi GPR 50... this started a landslide of me wanting a 2 stroke streetbike that was small bore I found one, then another one of these 1974 (or are they 75, I should look at the regis) RS-100. Both rough, both non running, both without papers. So I started a paper search and started tearing them apart. After tearing them apart I saw a bunch of things I hated, terrible brakes, spindly frames with poor welds, 18 wheels so no real modern sticky rubber. So I fixed all that, I put on some GSXR750 forks, laced up some modern wide 17" wheels to stock rear hub, and a GT550 front hub, used some CBR1100XX rotors and a Suzuki Savage caliper along with a bunch of machining for spacers and bearings. I also re welded the frame, stripped all the brackets that weren't needed, added new braces in weak areas and prepped it for paint. So I have a few more brackets to weld up for seat and exhaust, make a pipe and build a motor. I have some plans for the engine, it shares some similarities to the DT and MX engines of the same era and it looks like I can put a MX cylinder on it pretty easily. I happen to have a spare MX100 engine here. It has a bigger carb, bigger reed block from OEM and electronic ignition, but uses a cast iron jug. The RS has an aluminum jug. I also have a DT125 engine here as well, perhaps some sort of stroker engine can be built..... currently in the daydreaming plan for the engine, nothing solid. If anyone around here has played with one of these engines i'm all ears!
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Post by pitobread on Sept 4, 2018 21:45:50 GMT -5
Stay safe man!
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Post by pitobread on Aug 24, 2018 12:34:55 GMT -5
Finished the front wheel and show the motor install.
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Post by pitobread on Aug 21, 2018 20:00:13 GMT -5
It took them a few months to reply to a facebook message. Their sites are horrible.
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Post by pitobread on Aug 20, 2018 12:22:49 GMT -5
Made a quick video, doing some wheel machining to get the 12" wheel conversion process started
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Post by pitobread on Aug 20, 2018 1:36:45 GMT -5
Well its 2 stroke now. Bolts right in.
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Post by pitobread on Aug 19, 2018 16:48:12 GMT -5
I don't like projects I can't roll around. I mean I could roll earlier but now it rolls... about the same.
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Post by pitobread on Aug 19, 2018 11:54:15 GMT -5
Seems like the DNA are kinda rare.
Next option is to downgrade to 12" wheels like the typhoon 125.
I also have 12" wheels here so this makes a bit of sense to do (re: Cheap)
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Post by pitobread on Aug 19, 2018 1:18:38 GMT -5
2014 Piaggio Typhoon 4t 2t? Real question is currently can I make the 14" wheel fit on any 2t cases...
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Post by pitobread on Aug 19, 2018 1:05:34 GMT -5
Also Tsimi what is the outer diameter of your carb inlet, I will try to whip you up a leakdown tester.
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Post by pitobread on Aug 19, 2018 1:03:58 GMT -5
Tsimi, I think setting it to 0, which is what the DD manual says to start once you get it running good then play around.
Sometimes when I am in a situation where I do things and expect a change, but see none I like to do an extreme test.
If you think it's too rich, put a super small main jet in there and see if it does something different(like a 100 or something)
Then pull the main jet entirely and see if it changes anything or acts the same.
You may also simply have too large of a diameter needle, and no matter what you do to the main jet it won't change anything as the needle is dictating the fuel allowed to pass the atomizer bushing.
Side note, the CDI you are using, mine had a RPM limiter, that when grounded out keeps the bike from revving past 8500 or something, I believe it is a light blue wire. Do you have that on your bike? if so do you have it un grounded?
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Post by pitobread on Aug 18, 2018 13:00:26 GMT -5
And truth be told the Dio was on hiatus because I couldn't get it to run clean. After a break and some head scratching I sat down determined and figured out the carb, it's different than the Keihins I am used to so I just needed to clear my head and figure it out. I have made great progress since then!
I was making a few assumptions that were not true with this carb because of my previous experiences. Its human nature to do so.. but don't assume anything, check it!
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Post by pitobread on Aug 18, 2018 12:51:01 GMT -5
Hey Man. Its super frustrating. I have had projects I have gotten so burned out on I have pushed them into a corner and left them for a bit and done other things.. it happens.. sometimes you just get stuck. Set your iggy to 0.. Even though everyone else says .1 MVT in the DD instructions says 0. Do it exactly like they say, then I would do a leak down test. I cannot recall if you did one before so do one again, make sure you don't have an air leak. It can make it almost impossible to tune.. Then I would put a fresh plug in, pull the main jet OUT of the carb entirely, and tune both the pilot jet and the needle. Mark your throttle in 1/4 increments so you know where you are in the range. Start with the needle you should get ok revs to about 3/4 throttle.. try dropping and raising the needle till you achieve something close to that. It wont be perfect but just close to 3/4 running clean with NO MAIN JET INSTALLED. You may need a fatter or skinnier needle and ideally you want to end up in the middle position + or - 1 position on any needle you install. If you are at the extremes you should resize your needle. Then with the main still OUT set the pilot jet as per here www.shiny-red.net/guides/keihin-carburetor-jetting/"PILOT JET CORRECT: With one hand on the throttle maintaining RPM at approximately ⅛ throttle,(note: set the air screw in to about 2500 rpm, make sure the rear wheel is off the ground as while you are turning the screw the revs will increase and your scoot can take off!!) turn air screw ¼ turn at a time clock wise until you bottom it out. engine should become slightly erratic and you should have to play with throttle to maintain RPM. Start turning air screw counter clock wise, ¼ turn at a time until you have reached 2 ¾ turns out. Between 1 ¼ and 2 ¼ turns, your engine should have reached its highest RPM maintaining a steady throttle. Adjust air screw again between 1 ¼ and 2 ¼ until you have determined highest RPM. Quick throttle response should be clean without bog. PILOT JET TOO RICH: RPM does not reach a peak between 1 ¼ and 2 ¼ turns, stays the same or keeps rising out to 2 ¾ turns. Correction: replace pilot jet with next leaner and test again. PILOT JET TOO LEAN: RPM does not become erratic and engine maintains throttle when air screw is turned all the way clockwise. Correction: Keihin replace pilot jet with next richer and test again. Remember, with a steady throttle approximately ⅛, there should be a distinct difference in RPM from 1 ¼ turns to 2 ¼ turns if the pilot jet is correct. The emphasis here is to find a pilot jet that will run crisp without bog and without the main jet" And also "Jetting Tip: pilot jet and air screw To check to see if your pilot jet and air screw are adjusted right, warm up the scooter and let it idle as low as possible while still running smooth. From idle, whack the throttle wide open then let it close completely. Listen to the engine. If it bogs right when you whack the throttle open, then revs up, turn the air screw in ½ turn then try again. Do this until it revs up crisply. After the engine revs up, listen to it revving back down. If the revs drop quickly, and the engine starts to bog, and/or die, then you’re too rich on the air screw, back it out ¼ turn at a time. If after you let the throttle off the engine tends to run on and on while revving down very slowly, you’re too lean and need to turn the air screw in ¼ turn at a time. You want the revs to come up from idle quickly and smoothly, then drop back down to idle the same way. If you turn the air screw all the way in and it still needs to go further, then you will need a larger pilot jet. The opposite is also true: if you are backing the screw out so far that it falls out, you will need a smaller pilot jet." Then put the biggest main you have in it and work backwards. hell even try it with the main out, that will give you a true indication of a too rich condition, pay attention to how it feels and responds, then work you way down your jets from your biggest one till it starts getting snappy. It takes time, it sucks, and yeah with hyper race it is loud as heck.. The hyper race stuff is also a bit less forgiving in the jet department. In my experience its a bit of a fine line you have to find, not impossible but tricky and because of the peaky power it is a bit more fussy to tune. But learning to be methodical is #1. that shiny red website is probably one of the best step by step tuning guides I have found. (other than they don't tell you to leak check)
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