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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 30, 2015 8:52:35 GMT -5
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Post by triesandluth on Nov 30, 2015 9:39:59 GMT -5
That one worked. It hasa great deal of information in it!! Thanks! I've also began reading Mr Bell 's book, and am having problems stopping. I NEED to sleep some today after working 40 hours in three nights, but it's not making me drowsy like a usual read would... Damn my obsession...
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 1, 2015 22:31:08 GMT -5
Hmmm, this looks off center to me, kinda wobbles, and I can hear that grinding kinda noise after the starter motor sound is done... I was checking the exhaust port duration when I noticed these things. Is it possible for the shaft to be kinda bent a little, that influencing a whirring, grinding like noise from the bearing? BTW, exhaust port duration is 180, as best as I can tell...
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 1, 2015 23:50:29 GMT -5
When you pull the top end off,send us some pics of the piston and cylinder.. Here we go. The scarring may be from the seizes, or quite possibly the part of the head gasket that was missing. I added the 39mm head gasket on top of the 47mm gasket to relieve the tapping sounds on the head from the piston. I would've used another base gasket, but I only had one, the other was destroyed. When I took the head off, 1/3 of the bottom portion of the smaller head gasket was gone, beaten or burnt off. It wasn't in my pipe, either... Maybe in the case? Well, I'm going to do what I should've done from the start and swap the motors. I will take this current one and do some learning about cases, trenching, and other case fun. And having the engines off will allow me to pull the intake and port match it, since it's normally blocked by the frame mount bar. That last picture, the port opposite the exhaust, it's got a slight crack heading towards the skirt. Safe to say this is a goner, no need to try to port this, except for practice, maybe? And why does it look like its leaning, like the sides aren't square?
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Post by 190mech on Dec 2, 2015 5:10:54 GMT -5
That crack is a casting seam,I'd just chamfer it with a file and reuse it..Porting looks quite small and uneven,it'd be a good one to practice on,may even turn out to be a strong runner..How does the transfer tunnels look?Thats got a lot to do with its power output..
Head gaskets must be bore size or they'll heat up in the combustion chamber and cause lots of problems..(you already learned this one the hard way!)..
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 2, 2015 8:59:22 GMT -5
Hmmm, this looks off center to me, kinda wobbles, and I can hear that grinding kinda noise after the starter motor sound is done... I was checking the exhaust port duration when I noticed these things. Is it possible for the shaft to be kinda bent a little, that influencing a whirring, grinding like noise from the bearing? What looks off center and wobbles?
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 2, 2015 9:09:38 GMT -5
Hmmm, this looks off center to me, kinda wobbles, and I can hear that grinding kinda noise after the starter motor sound is done... I was checking the exhaust port duration when I noticed these things. Is it possible for the shaft to be kinda bent a little, that influencing a whirring, grinding like noise from the bearing? What looks off center and wobbles? Sorry, I was going to post a video, it didn't take so I cancel it's upload. The crankshaft end at the stator side. And it has this sound while running it on the stator side, always has. So, I'm in the middle of the motor swapping. I'm going to get a socket for the rear axle nut right now. I'll do some further investigation with the motor entirely off the scooter.
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 2, 2015 9:21:43 GMT -5
That crack is a casting seam,I'd just chamfer it with a file and reuse it..Porting looks quite small and uneven,it'd be a good one to practice on,may even turn out to be a strong runner..How does the transfer tunnels look?Thats got a lot to do with its power output.. Head gaskets must be bore size or they'll heat up in the combustion chamber and cause lots of problems..(you already learned this one the hard way!).. I've been reading up a lot on porting, here and in the A. Grahm Bell book. Quite a bit inspired me last night. I'm in need of a better dremell set, and maybe some other things for it, I'm going to give it a look around a few tool stores. Any suggestions would be openly accepted. Here's the transfer tunnels. I'm not sure if that is what you wanted to see, they actually look smoother and of better quality than the input port.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 2, 2015 9:31:26 GMT -5
What looks off center and wobbles? Sorry, I was going to post a video, it didn't take so I cancel it's upload. The crankshaft end at the stator side. And it has this sound while running it on the stator side, always has. So, I'm in the middle of the motor swapping. I'm going to get a socket for the rear axle nut right now. I'll do some further investigation with the motor entirely off the scooter. That's not good if you can see the crank wobbling. Maybe it can be trued if removed? I'm not sure if it's so bad that it obviously wobbles. 190mech has a lot of experience with cranks so he can help you more than I can. I'm in need of a better dremell set, and maybe some other things for it, I'm going to give it a look around a few tool stores. Any suggestions would be openly accepted. I have been happy with the 10 piece carbide burr sets with 1/8" shank that fits most small rotary tools. You can find them on eBay and amazon fairly cheap. You can get them in single or double cut. Single for aluminum. Double for steel. I have bent and broke the shafts before, but honestly I think I'm abusing them at that point. I use a Foredom and that thing has a lot of torque vs any of the Dremels I've had so if it jams it will break/bend them or break it's own driveshaft. It's a nice tool, but expensive and as I've eluded to it will get you into trouble if you aren't careful. There was some discussion here about Dremel and alternatives that may be of interest : 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/9385/dremel-problems-upgrades-replacements
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 2, 2015 9:52:19 GMT -5
I need to get another set of calipers, my daughter made off with my other ones. Then I'll see if I can get some actual measurement proof of the crankshaft not being true. I'm in need of a new set for just about everything else right now anyways. I've looked about but I'm not sure what to call these here, I have 3 examples. My malossi lc for the Super 9, has a cut out in the skirt and piston, the hoca lc for the Super 9, has the cut out for the piston, not the skirt, and last, the naraku for the tgb, has the cut out of the skirt, piston left alone.
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 2, 2015 12:52:53 GMT -5
Looks like a leaking seal here behind the variator...
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Post by Jwhood on Dec 2, 2015 16:55:24 GMT -5
Thats your entire tuning issue your oil seals are shot,and thats what gave you that bad seize,there's a 50/50 chance that your crank lobes cracked apart and there are in 2 pieces on the inside of the motor,i had another r50x that the crank was completely cracked in 1/2,look at my l.c build too see how i separated the case with a h.f puller
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Post by 190mech on Dec 2, 2015 18:26:54 GMT -5
The transfer tunnels look like they are a good starting point,all those sharp/square edges gotta be smoothed/rounded down so the mixture can ride that skateboard ramp into the cylinder..EVERYTHING smooth,,polishing isnt needed,just smooth..Brent has some great pics in his build threads about this.. As for all the piston/skirt holes in those cylinders,,mostly marketing,,Best way to see what really is happening is look at the piston/cylinder/port ducting with the cases apart kind like this;
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 2, 2015 22:16:10 GMT -5
Thats your entire tuning issue your oil seals are shot,and thats what gave you that bad seize,there's a 50/50 chance that your crank lobes cracked apart and there are in 2 pieces on the inside of the motor,i had another r50x that the crank was completely cracked in 1/2,look at my l.c build too see how i separated the case with a h.f puller The crank is still operating, I was able to ride it up until I disassembled it. It was weak but operable. It's Conrod clearances seemed fine too. Anyways, that case is getting disassembled
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Post by triesandluth on Dec 2, 2015 22:17:33 GMT -5
The transfer tunnels look like they are a good starting point,all those sharp/square edges gotta be smoothed/rounded down so the mixture can ride that skateboard ramp into the cylinder..EVERYTHING smooth,,polishing isnt needed,just smooth..Brent has some great pics in his build threads about this.. As for all the piston/skirt holes in those cylinders,,mostly marketing,,Best way to see what really is happening is look at the piston/cylinder/port ducting with the cases apart kind like this; I'm going to start soon. I'm gathering the rest of the tools soon! I'm a bit too excited...
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