|
Post by Silar on Apr 21, 2015 16:50:59 GMT -5
I decided to go ahead and order a new 1k contra spring from scooterdawg. That way I'll have something to play with and make sure the factory one is replaced anyways..
|
|
|
Post by Silar on Apr 21, 2015 16:32:04 GMT -5
What is the current plug? NGK CR7HS is a standard plug for these. Too cold and it could be fouling. It's a C7HSA
|
|
|
Post by Silar on Apr 21, 2015 16:18:19 GMT -5
I'm going to order all new fuel and vacuum lines and wanted to know...
Exactly what replacement sizes do I need for the ID of the hoses?
I'm wanting to know so I can get these ordered tonight and have them by the weekend!
|
|
|
Post by Silar on Apr 21, 2015 10:05:11 GMT -5
What is the current plug? NGK CR7HS is a standard plug for these. Too cold and it could be fouling. It's an NGK, but I'm not at home to check. I've got a new Iridium CR7HIX coming today. In your option 90GTVert, what would be causing this issue I'm experiencing if the plug turns out okay, and the carb is set right? I've got a new powerlink belt and 5 gram sliders coming and also have inspected the variator and it looks good, and also I've inspected the clutch springs (good and tight), bell housing, torque spring (requires some pretty good pressure to open the pulleys, and everything seems good. I've watched your video on the clutch and I've not taken mine apart yet, execpt just removing the bell and pulling it out to inspect it.
|
|
|
Post by Silar on Apr 21, 2015 9:55:36 GMT -5
Yeah.. The angled side was messing with me.
|
|
|
Post by Silar on Apr 20, 2015 19:00:56 GMT -5
I've spent the past few days researching how to set the float height on my carb properly. I received a new Kei Hin carb and the float bowl base is slanted which makes it really hard to set the float height if you don't have a carb that has the edge parallel to the floats themselves.. From what I can tell, there are 2 flat bases that you can take the measurements from. One on each side of the carb for each float side. If the carb is sitting upside down on a flat surface on the diaphram cover, the float line should pretty much be parallel with the top of the diaphram cover itself. This puts the float line at approximately 10mm from the flat bases and approximately 19mm from the bottom of the float (upside down) to the flat bases. Make sure to have the tang just touching the pin in the float valve. If you set it upside down, it will actually push the pin in a bit and skew the measurements. I had to lean the carb a bit to keep it from pushing the pin in and use a set of digital calipers to set it right. The only thing I can find anywhere I search is that the float level needs to be set to 19mm and that was a long shot to find.
|
|
|
Post by Silar on Apr 20, 2015 18:26:16 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Silar on Apr 20, 2015 18:13:40 GMT -5
I had some issues with the engine to where I do not have any power/torque with me on it. I'm about 190 and this scooter should definitely go over 15 miles an hour. I think I've got an overly rich condition due to a really weak spark plug, or carb issue, but I've went through the carb with a fine tooth comb and can't see anything wrong.. It's a new Kei-Hin. I have a thread in the 4t troubleshooting section called: 'Need help - 139QMB engine slow'.
I decided the best thing to do was to throw a bunch of parts at it! What else would someone do?
Here's what I have coming:
Powerlink belt 5 gram slider weights 100cc big bore kit (complete kit minus the exhaust and carb) A9 Cam Blue performance advanced curve CDI NGK Iridium 7544 plug New wiring harness
Here's what I've already installed:
New rectifier New throttle cable New turn signal New turn signal relay flasher New belt cover New kei-hin carb New performance ignition coil/wire New headlight bulbs New mirrors New kickstart lever
|
|
|
Post by Silar on Apr 20, 2015 17:47:07 GMT -5
Actually, I'll post the pics over in my Transformers Bumblebee thread in the builds section since I guess this is going to end up being part of my build with the upgrades.
I did break down at least the cover to see if there were any visible cracks in the cylinder casing and head but didn't see anything obvious so I hate to eat my own words... Maybe it is an overly rich condition (sticks head in the dirt so no one can see me).
Dumb question though. Could a weak (or really cold) spark plug be causing all my issues? I don't have another one, and actually tried to go ahead and pick up an Iridium 7544 but absolutely no one carries them around here so I ordered one online. I did try the stock spark plug wire/coil and an aftermarket racing wire/coil with the same effects.
|
|
|
Post by Silar on Apr 20, 2015 16:00:22 GMT -5
Yes. I fell in love with my V65! Everyone asks me how fast I've had it.. I always tell them 55 of course! I'm in my 40's and don't plan on killing myself anytime soon. The V45 and V65 both had issues with their factory timing chain tensioners. It's almost a given to go ahead and replace them if you ever buy one and it hasn't been done.
Going out to the scoot to tear it down!!!! Bear with me guys.. I'm going to start a pic posting frenzy!
|
|
|
Post by Silar on Apr 20, 2015 13:01:00 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply. I used a torch and burned all the carbon and oil off the plug before putting it back in so I could test it clean. Looked like it did when I bought it last week.
I'm not disregarding what everyone is saying. No reason to get testy because I found something wrong other than the carb. I do have mechanical experience. I've rebuilt my Land Rover engine and the 302 in my 1982 ford f100. I've also done a complete frame up on my 1984 v65 Magna. I greatly appreciate the help. I thought it was too rich also.
I'm pulling the head when I get home from work today to inspect the valves, piston, rings and seals.
I planned on buying a bbk anyways and id rather have it on hand. After going through everything I went through, on this scooter, there's definitely something other than the carb.
|
|
|
Post by Silar on Apr 19, 2015 21:42:23 GMT -5
I took the whole snorkel off. It didn't make a difference for the plug color and I'm pretty sure it's not fuel on the plug. Smells and looks like oil once I cleaned the plug and ran it for a bit and checked afterwards.
I bought a BBK kit with everything except the carb and exhaust. I figure if I need those, then I'll buy them once I get the BBK in and test it.. Also bought a new CDI so I can make absolutely sure it's not that.
I hate to keep throwing money at this thing, but I really want to make this darn thing work!
|
|
|
Post by Silar on Apr 19, 2015 20:39:15 GMT -5
Adjusted the float to lower the fuel level a bit in the bowl and same problem. I did try taking off the breather tube to open air into the air cleaner and plugging it also to restrict it. There were noticeable differences, but what would be expected. Didn't change any power at all. I figured even with an 85 jet, removing any air restrictions prior would have leaned it out a bit but it still didn't have any power under load. I think the carb is fine.
I'm really starting to lean more towards a compression issue. Maybe piston rings, valves not seating, valve stem seals or something like that.. I don't see any smoke, but I took the vent hose off the breather fitting on the valve cover and there is air pulsing out of it at a constant rate. Also, I cleaned the spark plug real good and put it back in before I did the testing and afterwards, pulled the spark plug again and it was black. Smelled like oil. I don't have a compression tester to check but I'm really thinking that may have been the cause all along.
Would that cause it to not have any power? No joke, I can literally hold the throttle at WOT and with my feet down, keep the bike from moving.
On a side note, I decided to throw the old carb into my berrymans carb cleaner so I took it apart. It was crazy nasty! Obviously why the bike wouldn't run at all with it.
Anyone want to recommend a BBK? Also what could I get by with for now if I go with a BBK? Do I need to upgrade the exhaust or can I leave that for now until later?
|
|
|
Post by Silar on Apr 19, 2015 17:30:46 GMT -5
What about the float? Where should it be? See my previous post with pics of my float level.
Also, How hot should the valve cover be? For me, it is way too hot to even touch just letting it idle to temp.
|
|
|
Post by Silar on Apr 19, 2015 15:17:11 GMT -5
|
|