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Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 11, 2017 3:30:13 GMT -5
Working on my new pipe design. A seemingly slow, but a systematic approach to something very fun. With great help from 190mech and 90GTVert and a few others thread contributions, I will soon have my first mock up done. Yes, I will post the progress in 2T performance. Nobody makes a true Honda Gyro pipe, so with encouragement from my Thai friends, we will make a 50cc and a 70cc version to satisfy the demand here. With some good design work, even if tedious, they should fit any TA01E or TA02E Honda Gyro. (Gyro Up/X/Canopy)
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Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 11, 2017 3:29:42 GMT -5
Working on my new pipe design. A seemingly slow, but a systematic approach to something very fun. With great help from 190mech and 90GTVert and a few others thread contributions, I will soon have my first mock up done. Yes, I will post the progress in 2T performance. Nobody makes a true Honda Gyro pipe, so with encouragement from my Thai friends, we will make a 50cc and a 70cc version to satisfy the demand here. With some good design work, even if tedious, they should fit any TA01E or TA02E Honda Gyro. (Gyro Up/X/Canopy)
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Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 8, 2017 6:13:08 GMT -5
The scoot masters and others have detailed many threads that can lead to this condition...seizure! If you are running a stock pump...dump the pump! You will never be sorry, unless you cannot fill a "ratio-rite' for 5 gallons consistently. There were just new threads regarding pre-mix and pump removal and crankcase displacement plugs...
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Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 8, 2017 6:01:11 GMT -5
Hi two stroke fanatics! Thought I would share some fun in the world of powerboat racing in Thailand. We just attended a race not a half mile from our new property. A fun way to spend a Sunday! These boats are short, and have "longtail" engine/driveshaft to prop delivery. Common here in racing and offshore tour boats. The real fun is that they have two general class breakdowns. Two-stroke and Four. The engine displacement varies a little, but it appeared that the fastest 2 strokes were all Rotax engines...old 370's from my little history. (I think they began as 330's in snomobiles...not truly sure). The big thing is, that they all run a powerful and LOUD expansion pipe. I say pipe...not a chamber! After the divergent cone section, there is...well, just air! They are rotary valve intake engines. I do not think a half pipe could function if only reed induced, but I have no experience here. Fun and loud and more fun!
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Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 6, 2017 8:59:15 GMT -5
Hi...might need more information...if you are experiencing a full throttle situation just before or during your downhill run, it could be a few things. The first that comes to mind is ignition limitations. Many 2 strokes have rpm limiters built into the tiny ignition box. Especially older ones. My '85 Honda had one that cried like a baby at 8700rpm. The newer ignition allows 12,000, though I do not need that much rpm.
I would investigate your ignition first, before changing too much. The reed "flutter" could be rev limiter. I am a proponent of changing one thing at a time.
If that doesn't solve it...look into your carb.
I missed a big thing...before you do anything...clean your entire intake and exhaust system and install a good plug!
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Post by ThaiGyro on Feb 27, 2017 6:29:11 GMT -5
Haha...Like Vert and Tsimi and others have said, many variables. I always toss mechanical parts that add no value in the closest garbage can. Like oil pumps I prefer pre-mix anytime, because I control it. My Honda came with the cable throttle from hell story, if adjusted correctly and constantly and consistently, it would theoretically perform through the OEM powerband. That was of course, limited to 8700 rpm by ignition. With an OEM engine, you should consider your starting point at what the manual says. (Mine was 40:1) As you gradually add performance modifications, you can consider making changes for more protection, if needed. There are more threads on rich versus lean FUEL mixtures related to carb adjustments. Here is my historical thought: If you change something like a piston size, as mentioned...Do the calculation and adjust as needed. If you change anything that increases rpm dramatically, do the calculation and adjust as needed. Porting? calc, adjust Pipe change? calc, adjust Ignition timing is a big one to consider. Advanced? calc, adjust Do you record head and/or exhaust temperatures? You might consider it as potential visual protection.
My old example from memory: Yamaha RD125B was pumped to a max of ~38:1, It's high performance brother the TA125 had the exact bore/stroke, but we ran 2.1 BTDC advanced timing, (RD was 1.8) with super good pipes. TA modified max rpm-14,000, RD max ~9500: The TA premix ratio was 20:1
I never holed a piston, with those mods, plus porting changes.
More of my experience: Many think that smoking from un-burned/partially burned oil is "normal". In my time building these, I adjust everything to minimize this...cold engine smoke can hardly be avoided, but visible smoking upon acceleration on a properly warmed engine is simply a waste....and to me, something not correct in the overall setup. Others may disagree.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Feb 14, 2017 23:17:51 GMT -5
That is quite correct tsimi! We used to try and match the reed to the power band on race bikes...actually anything, as you stated. I found it quite a trying experience in the old days with less material choice. My old Yamaha 125 twin had a pipe that came on at just under 9000 rpm, but came on hard! (top rpm was 13,500)
Being an old man, I simply try to expand the low-to-mid range power, where I use it most. Not always successful first try, but it is fun to play.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Feb 14, 2017 4:43:26 GMT -5
I have not seen this response yet...but have you taken the petcock apart? Many have an internal screen or often a port that can easily plug, when running. My '85 Honda had so much rust in the tank that the petcock plugged constantly...same issues as you describe.
After a good vinegar/water douche, my fuel tank was clean...soaked all fuel petcock parts and used a toothbrush to clean...cheap and easy. (BTW, I use white vinegar to clean/loosen rust, then air dry with compressed air, then a petrol compatible sealer in the tank...optional.
Sounds like you have multiple issues...clean it all!
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Post by ThaiGyro on Feb 14, 2017 3:00:55 GMT -5
What Lucass said...Thinner is better. Looks like carbon fiber? The stock reeds are stainless steel, last forever, but usually do not have a "performance" bend as they open, I don't believe. (For some race bikes can have a taper) My engine came with the same reeds as the Dio. The thinner carbon ones, (I now have Polini's) will not have as much of a linear taper as they open...IMO, smoother response and better closing seal than the steel ones.
(I also modified my reed block to match the case port)
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Post by ThaiGyro on Feb 8, 2017 4:36:38 GMT -5
I say 362.5mm...I live in Thailand, but still have US shipping addresses...Does that count?
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Post by ThaiGyro on Feb 4, 2017 22:15:06 GMT -5
I have not seen anyone suggest Koso North America here. It is a Taiwan Corporation that makes a lot of innovative products, including a wide variety of indicators and accessories. Though I also have had great reliability with Trail Tech...they are much more expensive in that there is little variation of offerings. Koso has low end, mid range and very high end products, including OEM stuff for some Hondas, Harley's and maybe more. To Trail Tech's credit, they are now doing Can Am stuff. I discovered a Koso speedometer transmitter that actually screws into the cable port on nearly any OEM bike...programmable for wheel size. To me, that beats the very clunky Trail Tech setup. Try this: kosonorthamerica.com/Looks like they have a slim indicator for $50, but setup for liquid, the cylinder head kit is $20, plugs into same harness. They also have adapters for oil plug...take a look.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Feb 4, 2017 3:29:30 GMT -5
Thanks Thomas! I have looked into Ecotrons. From reputation, they have very good quality and very reliable, but that comes with a tall price. Their price is $600 for a complete installation kit, minus the O2 sensor installation. That is for their smallest, 28mm. Perfect for a 70cc. Worth the cash? I think so, but near six times a performance carb. The price of fun!
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Post by ThaiGyro on Feb 3, 2017 6:56:11 GMT -5
Mine would be lack of aftermarket fuel injection and to make FI happen...full wave alternators & rectifiers to fit older scoots. I would rather tune from my laptop than swapping out carb brass and tinkering with needle settings. As soon as I can find a way to play with Honda PGM-FI, I will!
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Post by ThaiGyro on Feb 2, 2017 21:39:11 GMT -5
I had another thought...is this a street ride or do you use it dual sport? The reason I ask is that your displacement is half of an RD/RZ350. If you run some pipe design design numbers, you may find that you can adapt an old pipe from one of those. Who knows? They mostly had down pipes, not up-swept like the DT/IT. Make it an "RT" 175 cafe bike!
OR, Yamaha Banchee...FMF still makes pipes for them. Of course you need only one, (left one?) but you may find one on eBay, or call FMF or DG. Maybe they have one laying around! You may have to modify the head mount, but the rest might be easy enough.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Feb 1, 2017 22:51:55 GMT -5
I have been working with 190mech as Vert directed you to above. He just kindly sent me some figures for my Gyro to build a decent low-midrange pipe to 10,000 rpm. I will have to make it fit through a small port under the engine case. (The Gyro's are three wheelers)
There is much interest here in Thailand. The only pipes we have seen here are Dio pipes, but they do not mount under the Gyro Up rear deck. (OR Gyro X or Gyro canopy) I want to keep my deck for utility work, hauling groceries, whatever.
You will see a few options for building. I am using the method of hand forming each piece, then fit up/weld up. My colleague here and I are going to fab up both a 49cc and 70cc chamber and test run them both.
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