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Post by tocoo on Oct 14, 2018 9:23:12 GMT -5
for instance I go from 0mph to 38mph [little yellow dot before 50km/h] in 14 seconds when I use the windshield instead [it takes 2s to get the scooter moving with the new pulley] so i would put back the original carburetor, just use main jet =80, idle jet = 33 or 31, change the original enricher with the enricher of the new carburetor (if they fit and the new enricher has not a long needle [remove the enriching circuit on thee orginal carb with the 2 screws and plug the enricher to see if the needle short enough]), be sure to have a clean the carburetor optional = clean the valve cover+ filter for polluted gas from the valve cover [the chrome tube connects to a lozange with 2 screw, the filter is inside] and also set he valves at 0,10mm like the manual says if you set the valves, be careful with setting the engine at TDC because it is hard to see if you are at compression stroke like I experienced here 49ccscoot.proboards.com/post/333986
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Post by tocoo on Oct 14, 2018 9:13:10 GMT -5
My kisbee hesitates during an acceleration from idling because i changed the original pulley in the CVT cover. original spring of the pulley = color green = height of 102mmmm new spring of pulley = 95mm or 90mm? so you can check -the rollers [original rollers = 5g/roller] -the color of the spring -if you have a 39mm socket[some kisbee have 38mm nut though]+impact driver, you can measure the spring and clean the whole pulley also, check the transmission size of original transmission of kisbee cvt belt = 723 17.5 28 tutorial = www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EjW-iSP-Q8With original carburetor I have -idle jet = 31 or 33 -main jet = 80 original idle = 30 original main = 76 needle clip = one of the 2 middle positions original needle clip = one of the 2 middle positions
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Post by tocoo on Oct 12, 2018 23:19:14 GMT -5
Ho so you have a kisbee. I have a kisbee too, from 2014 at 5500km now. I wondered if the newest 2018 kisbee was interesting, but since it is controlled electronically, I preferred to keep mine. this is how mine is: I keep the original carburetor with its famous 20mm diaphragm... I pierced the vacuum petcock to make it manual and I installed two manual valves. I also replaced the fuel enricher on the carb, because the original enricher was closing the enriching circuit when the enricher was COLD [the needle was too long]. So the cold starts were impossible. Now it starts fine cold on battery, cold on kick and it idles at 2100 RPM. Can you tell me how much gap do you have on your spark plug? the peugeot manual says 0,6--0,7mm but I gap my spark plug at 0,55mm and it works fine. i also set the valves around 0,8mm. Can you also tell if the little ''green clips '' are used for the two screws holding the seat ? I lost those two clips. DO you know where to buy those green plastic clips ?
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Post by tocoo on Oct 7, 2018 2:46:34 GMT -5
Yeah I struggled with electric start too, but mine at least make the starter works. I after I checked the jets, the mixture screw and the fuel enricher on the carb, I decided to lower the gap on the spark plug. THe manual says the NGK spark plug must have a gap of 0,6--0,7mm, but I tried 0,55mm and it seems to work well.
Anyway, always fully kick a few times and leave the kick at the position where you feel a resistance, then start with the battery. If the electric starter makes no noise, then you can replace it for 20 USD after checking the wires of the scooter and testing it directly on the battery. you can disassemble it if you want, but it is awful to assemble afterwards.
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Post by tocoo on Oct 7, 2018 2:39:01 GMT -5
can you tell me what brand and model is your 50cc scooter?
Can you tell me the internal diameter of the fuel line? I struggle to find one
where id you get your fuel tap?
also, your fuel line goes upwards on the left of the scooter, , so make it shorter so that fuel flows downwards easily
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Post by tocoo on Oct 4, 2018 6:27:42 GMT -5
Pilot jets China -> Norway took 15 days. Short-lived happiness tho - i ordered the wrong f**** jets. They're M6 "Keihin", too big thread, and wouldn't fit in my original carb. Beeing an idiot, i forgot to always measure twice. BUT, they will probably fit in the new 20mm carb i ordered that should arrive soon. hello, I think I have the idle jets you want. I have size 30,31,33,35,38,40 and the width of the jet is 5mm. thread size = 5mmx0.8mm, length of jet = 28mm. I also sell a pd18j carburetor with some idle jets and main jets for it [main = 75, 78, 80, 82, 85, 88, idle = 30,31,33,35,38,40 and thread size=6mmx0.75mm]. let me know if you are interested.
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Post by tocoo on Oct 1, 2018 23:59:12 GMT -5
for 10 USD, you can buy a repair kit on alieexpress, be super careful with the size of the needle compared to the size of the spring and where the rubber ring sits on this new needle
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Post by tocoo on Sept 22, 2018 23:21:47 GMT -5
when the carb is cleaned, you can use some carb cleaner at the air entry of the carb. You can also check the gap of your spark plug. My manual says the gap is good between 0,6mm and 0,7mm, but I gap mine at 0,55mm with feeler gauge. Check that the mixture screw is between 1,5 and 3 turns from the screwed position. Before starting the engine, wether with the kick or the battery, you turn the key OFF and you can kick a few times (and you go all the way with the kick, which is a bit beyond the foot parallel with the earth), and leave the kick at the highest compression. then key is ON, and you either kick while opening the throttle, or you start on the battery. you can also check the electrical choke like here www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVLHaVPf7SI
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Post by tocoo on Aug 21, 2018 11:02:38 GMT -5
hello, one year later... as I was interested about a sym orbit , more precisely a sym orbit 3 50cc euro4 (but I do not know whether they come with this engine, even though it is very likely since the sym fiddle 3 has this engine too), I discovered that they come with this weird engine 137qma. I found that this engine equips a few famous scooters and here are the characteristics, translated with gogle scooters = SYM Mio, SYM Jet, SYM Allo, SYM Orbit 2, SYM Fiddle 2, SYM Symphony, SYM Tonik , SYM X-pro, Peugeot Vivacity 4t, SPEEDFIGHT 3 50 4T, TWEET 50 4T and even better Peugeot has made a service manual for this engine XS1P37QMA-2 scootergrisen.dk/scooterhjemmeside/download/peugeot_workshop_manual_50cc_engine_4stroke_2valves_sym.pdfOne difference with the 139qmb is the valve clearance.. Peugeot says that the valve clearance for the 139qmb is intake = exhaust = 0,10mm +- 0.02 mm but for the 137qma On
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Post by tocoo on Aug 19, 2018 10:39:22 GMT -5
On this video, www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jf1dBSMjr54, the guy says that leaving a pressure on the handle over 1 night is enough to get the bubbles at the top. In the comments, somebody says that under daily use, the bubbles will go up naturally. Anyway, I will do again a bleeding, like we advise. another thing: there was white deposits floating in the tank. I think there is a white coat at the bottom of the tank, near the output of the tank. I tried to remove it with a tiny screwdriver, but it not solid. it is very tenuous and I cannot grasp it. I would like to flush the tank to clean it well, but I fear that I would remove too much fluid and make things work with respect to air bubbles.
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Post by tocoo on Aug 19, 2018 9:45:15 GMT -5
FOr the first time today I changed the braking fluid. I have a bottle of DOT4 and I opened the tank to fill up a bit with new fluid. At the bottom with the nipple 8mmm valve, I attach a 8mm wrench and a hose. Then I pump 5 times the brake handle and keep pressing the handle and I open the 8mm valve until no fluid squirts and then I close the valve and let go of the handle. i do this until I am satisfied with the color at the output of the valve. Then I fill up the tank with new brake fluid up to the max level and I put back the rubber cap then the metallic cap.
I cleaned well the 8mm valve, but during the test drive to check the front brake by braking at various speeds, I notice that the little rubber cap was wet of DOT4, whereas I dried it just before. So I dried it several times and several times it became wet.... I closed the valve even more with a ratchet, but the rubber cap kept getting wet.
Now with the air bubble: I decided to open the 8mm valve with the ratchet and to close it normally, because I thought that I tightened it too much the second time. At this point the valve leaks some of DOT4 until I closed it properly. And I wonder if this fact means that there is air in the braking circuit now. I think there is still plenty of fluid left by judging with the handle, so I am not worried about lack fluid.
If there is air now, is it dangerous and how do I remove it? Wouldn't the air bubbles move back up to the top of the tank and just stay there, harming nothing ?
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Post by tocoo on Aug 10, 2018 11:08:00 GMT -5
tocoo, does you oil smell of gasoline? If so, it may be that your carburetor is allowing fuel to seep into the crankcase. That dilutes the oil, making it less viscous, reducing its ability to lubricate. Did you do the service yourself? Did you check the oil level after the service was completed, and, if so, was it above or below the "B" measure(immediately after service - could it have been overfilled then?) tom The oil does not seem to smell like gasoline. THe official dealer serviced the scooter like for all the previous services and the previous service the mark of oil was below B. AFter his latest service, I believed I checked and it was over B. I will try to remove a bit of oil with a syringe. The way I check is the way of the manual: scooter on central stand on a flat ground, and in my case the rear wheel is not in contact with the ground. Then I put the plastic cap without screwing it. I checked again and there is no wake of oil, everything is dry of oil, especially around the oil filter. The only thing a slightly wet of oil is the protuberance of the gasket (I do not know if this protuberance is standard on this engine) but I cleaned it now : and the habitual mix of oil+ dirt near the rear wheel: Is this oil stain actually normal ? The other habitual oil leak since I purchased the scooter is at the valve cover (which is slightly on the left of the scooter): when you look above the cover in the seated position like when you drive, the left side of the frame of the scooter, below the valve cover, has the usual mixture of oil+dirt.
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Post by tocoo on Aug 10, 2018 10:18:29 GMT -5
well this afternoon, the noise came back at acceleration and cruise, like it never went away. I ordered the racing parts for a new clutch and I will first swap only the pads to see if they are the cause of this.
how many miles the pads are supposed to last on the 50cc?
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Post by tocoo on Aug 8, 2018 2:21:02 GMT -5
I watched a video by 90VET to replace the bearings and the o-rings of the clutch, but I have not the tools required. THis is why I favor the purchase of a new one.
I also checked the flanges but they are not glazed, I may sand them, but what grade should be used, should it be a gross grade like 120 or a fine grade like 1000 ?
After I message yesterday, I checked the prices for a full generic bell+clutch and it is already 50 euros. I checked for the pulley and a racing pulley is already 45euros, the racing pads are 30 euros and the racing bell is 30 euros. I did not expect such high prices...
Anyway, yesterday was the last day of the heat wave and there was minimal noise on the second ride. This morning was 17 degrees less than yesterday and the noise is here especially at the beginning. But the noise is minimal so it is no longer a displeasure to ride the scooter. If I manage to sell my current clutch, I will buy a new one for sure.
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Post by tocoo on Aug 7, 2018 10:24:47 GMT -5
since the last service 500km ago, there is a drop of oil near the flywheel that comes back after each ride When I check the level of oil, instead of being between A and B, I get a level above the B mark is it possible this drop comes from having too much oil?
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