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Post by tocoo on Oct 25, 2018 0:34:47 GMT -5
yes this is diagram of the electrical circuit. Number 13 is the restriction on the CVT: I have the original pulley with the bump so I am limited to 50 km/h and 7800 RPMs, but with the generic pulley without the bump, the scooter goes up to 6600 RPMs and around 30km/h [plus horrible rattling sound in the pulley] The CDI limits the RPMs at 6800 when the blue wire is not connected or when there is no bump on the pulley. People on the internet claim that the original CDI can be de-restricted by disconnecting from the CDI the blue wire coming from the CVT and instead connecting this entry of the CDI to a 12V battery. I tried it and it indeed removes the rev-limiter. On the main stand I can go up to 7200 RPMS, but I have not tested on the road. A specialized seller for gy6 scooter says that, for the 139qmb 50cc, The generic CDI which is unrestricted does not need one of the wire on the 4-pin connector. Indeed my dead CDI was used without this wire [this wire is colored black and it carries 12V from the battery when ignition is ON and 0v when the ignition is OFF] however, the seller says that for 150cc and above, this black wire must be connected to the generic unrestricted CDI. THis black wire must be connected to the original CDI for the 50cc, perhaps for the 150cc too. I ordered an unrestricted CDI: the naraku NK390.24 with adjustable timing. I do not plan on messing with the timing though. Somebody who has a kisbee 4 stroke said this cdi worked well so I am confident it will work out of the box for me.
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Post by tocoo on Oct 24, 2018 3:22:48 GMT -5
The engine oil leaked form the cap, I do not know how, perhaps due to too much oil ? I tried to remove a bit of oil and there is a residue on the oblique tube where you insert the oil. THe cap and the o-ring are indeed oily , even after I clean and dry them.
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Post by tocoo on Oct 24, 2018 3:21:00 GMT -5
SInce I am running with the original CDI, I do not think you can properly choose the main jet without looking at the ring inside the spark plug. normally, you compare main jets by going as fast as you can and comparing top speeds and top PRMs, but with the restriction at 50km/h there is no way to do that.
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Post by tocoo on Oct 23, 2018 11:44:59 GMT -5
Also, the original CDI is restricted and the signal triggering the restriction is carried by wire from the CDI to the CVT cover, where there is a magnet triggered by the little bump on the clutch assembly, exactly like the pick-up from the fly-wheel of the stator.
My problem is that I have a new generic clutch assembly which lacks this little bump. I wonder how I can create this little bump. I have only a little soldering iron and some Solder. I s this enough to trigger the pickup ? Will the solder stick to the clutch even when the clutch spins super fast at high speed ?
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Post by tocoo on Oct 23, 2018 5:41:56 GMT -5
I received the new spark plug and still no spark. the resistance of the new spark plug is 4200 ohms. I tried old spark plug +original CDI and I have spark. the scooter is idling right now. I will drive it for a run.
SO apparently, the derestricted CDI has died. I was lucky that it died in my garage and not when I am away from home. Now I would like to know if ther eis a way to bypass the CDI.
Can you tell me : - how typically a CDI dies? -how scooter before CDI make the spark plug spark ? Can gy6 scooter run without a CDI and instead rely on some mechanical CDI ?
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Post by tocoo on Oct 22, 2018 10:49:09 GMT -5
No the flywheel is stock and I do not even have the special tool to remove it.
I found the original CDI in some box and I installed it, with its connection to the blue wire coming from the CVT. The engine cranks and does not start over. I ordered a new spark plug, so I am waiting to receive it. When I tested the VAC at the connector of the black-yellow wire from the original CDI to the coil, I get 1,5 VAC during cranking, instead of the 12,5 VAC with the unrestricted CDI. i expected the same value. The CDI is actually AC, not DC.
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Post by tocoo on Oct 22, 2018 2:07:36 GMT -5
I have 2 used NGK spark plugs and each fails with both coils. I tried to see if the 2 spark plug were cracked by measuring the resistance when they were cold like this and they both show a resistance of 4000 ohms. The guy in the tutorial says he has 2 ohms. What is odd is that the spark plug were fine during a few rides. Since the stator ouputs decent VAC and the coil has decent resistance, I tested the output of the CDI at the level of the two connectors of the orange coil. I removed black-yellow wire coming from the cdi to the coil, connected this wire to the multimeter in Volt AC and the black wire of the multimeter to a ground. The output while cranking was 12.3 VAC. Does this mean the CDI outputs enough volts for the coil ? and that would mean the 2 spark plugs are dead?
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Post by tocoo on Oct 21, 2018 7:31:04 GMT -5
I forgot to mention that the current orange coil is a cheap aftermartket coil.But I tested with the original coil [resistance of 8000 ohms, instead of 2000 ohms for the orange coil] and there is zero spark...
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Post by tocoo on Oct 21, 2018 7:27:28 GMT -5
My CDI was bought from the official dealer of PEugeot for the kisbee 4 stroke to derestrict the scooter. The CDI is 4 years old. I do not have the original CDI. THe scooter has a AC CDI. THe scooter started fine and the engine was idling fine, then I sat on the scooter and pushed the scooter forward to retract the main stand. I started to move back the scooter with the feet and to go forwards still by feet in order to leave the garage and go on the street. I only need to push on my feet for 2 or 3 meters before entering the public street, but those 3 meters are slightly downwards. Then all of a sudden, the engine stopped. I never touched the throttle. Generally, when the engine stops in this area where the scooter is tipped [rear is at higher altitude than the front], it messes with the fuel in the carburetor and the engine dies. but when I reach the flat public street, I crank the engine and the scooter starts. Today the engine did not start again and I do not even have spark. 2 days ago, i gapped my spark plug to 0,75mm and I checked I had good blue spark and the scooter started and ran well. And now I have nothing. My questions are -is the stator OK? -is the wiring + coil ok? -is the cdi dead? I tested the volt AC and ohms according to the test on the manual and also to the video test of 90vet test according to www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9-mr7BXIhoground - wire blue-white = 149 ohm cranking= 0,5 VAC ground - wire black-red = 523 ohm cranking = 109 VAC test according to the manual I also want to test the starter relay, but the tests online are for the 150cc with their starter relay looking like this but my starter relay is JQ103B-1 is the starter relay even involved in getting spark ? How do I test this relay?
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Post by tocoo on Oct 21, 2018 0:57:03 GMT -5
yeah it is the best video for carb tuning.
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Post by tocoo on Oct 19, 2018 19:37:38 GMT -5
yes me too, it is the saddle that pushes on the enricher of fuel. go on the right of the scooter with a light and try to lift the saddle a bit [no fuel cap ON], you see the saddle pressing the enricher. the idle changes al the time: -the bike is on the main stand with no saddle -the bike is on the main stand with a saddle -the bike is on the main stand with a saddle+driver -the bike is not on the main stand and there is a driver I set my idle at 2000 RPM when the bike is on the main stand with a saddle. To minimize the effect of the enricher, you must push the tail of the enricher towards the air entry of the carburetor. But since you have the original enricher, which is tiny compared to the generic enricher on generic carburetor, you should not have problems like this with the original carburetor I found the 2 pictures illustrating the long needle of the original enricher int he original carburetor. The first picture is with a generic enricher and the second one is with the tiny original enricher. the tiny original enricher totally blocks the first hole
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Post by tocoo on Oct 19, 2018 2:03:49 GMT -5
I listened to the sound recorded, but you do not tell when you open the throttle, so we cannot hear the delay in acceleration.
Before you turn the vacuum petcock into a manual petcock, can you tell me if you see a drop in RPMs [or even if the scooter dies] when you do the following -start the scooter on the main stand -let the engine run for 5 minutes to warm it up and let it idle -mount on the seat of the scooter -do not touch the throttle -still without touching the throttle, push with the feet the scooter forward to retract the main stand -still without touching the throttle, pull with the feet the scooter backwards over a few meters
at this point, either by pushing the scooter forwards or moving backwards with the feet, when I used the vacuum petcock, the RPM would drop, like form 2000 to 1700, sometimes the engine would die.
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Post by tocoo on Oct 15, 2018 2:57:57 GMT -5
I just checked = original main jet = 78, original needle clip = middle out of 3 grooves this is how my spark plug looks like for the setting for summer, idle jet = 33 , main jet = 82, mixture screw = 2,75 turns from screwed position, idle RPM = 2000 or 2100, everything original on the scooter, but not the CDI or the orange coil. I will try to see the ring at the base of the ceramic as explained on this tutorial 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/1727/spark-plug-reading-tuning-info
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Post by tocoo on Oct 15, 2018 2:06:14 GMT -5
yes I think the original carb has a needle with 3 grooves, not 4. I think the main jet was 78 too. I think you worry too much about the restriction of air, because whatever air flow you have with the stock airbox, you will adjust the mixture screw and as long as the mixture screw is between 1,5 and 3 turns, then it would be fine for idle and half opened throttle. What matters with the airbox is that it dried of water, so that no water enters the carburetor. Can you say how many seconds it takes for the scooter to react from idle to wide open throttle ? How high is your idle now ? does it idle well ? if it idles well and the enricher works well, then the transition form idle to wider opened throttle is about the needle. THere are diagrams here 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/23542/cv-carburetor-adjustment-progression-portsthere is a tutorial to set the carburetor www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.htmlYou can buy a tachometer on ebay or aliexpress too for 20 USD i will check my original carburetor too. I wait for the cold temperatures to come to set the carburetor for winter.
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Post by tocoo on Oct 14, 2018 10:05:16 GMT -5
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