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Post by repherence2 on Jan 24, 2020 20:42:54 GMT -5
I was totally planning on doing a "house build" with as much of our parts as possible (: Personally I'm getting the ceramic 7 port Hoca kit for my Eton Matrix (now there's only 1 left in stock!), I may just use the cast iron kit for the Zuma. Depends on how much of an allowance the boss gives, realistically. I think the cast iron kit will do just fine, paired with the Hoca pipe and a 19mm OKO carb with a powerjet. The plan is not an all out speed machine, but something that lifts the front tire when ya want it to and still can smoothly cruise to the corner store for a beer (wait, I mean lunch). Do you guys like the powerjet carbs, or nah? I never messed with them, and I'm curious as if it'll be better for city riding and long WOT pulls. I ran a clone OKO 26 with powerjet. I loved it for long WOT pulls. I had to actually set my main jet at approximately ⅞ throttle. Because it felt like the power jet came online from ⅞-full throttle. I liked the power jet for peace of mind at WOT. The way i had it tuned, my WOT temperature was lower than my temp at ¾ throttle. It was a headache to tune at first because i didn't have an understanding if the power jet's function.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 22, 2020 20:50:58 GMT -5
I hope you got some Main Jets...
....if not, you will end up soft seizing that new bore several times.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 22, 2020 20:13:41 GMT -5
I think it is probably 2 stroke oil leaking past the oil pump when the bike is sitting for a while. ...i only say that because you keep mentioning smoke during start up.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 22, 2020 0:18:28 GMT -5
finished up the air box modification. installed the large intake boot with Shoe Goo. I was looking for a hole saw that was 1-7/8" but it was $11.99. I found a kit from SKILL with several sizes of small hole saws with an arbor for $6.49. it did not have a 1-7/8" hole saw. I used the 1-3/4" hole saw and it turned out perfectly snug. the exhaust header and the Arrow pipe the other side stock SYM DD50 air box. 28mm OKO. CT Black intake manifold.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 21, 2020 20:29:36 GMT -5
Im glad you decided to unclamp the head/bore to visually inspect it.
Was the compression really high on that set up? That piston looks like it was ready to burn a hole in itself.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 21, 2020 20:17:41 GMT -5
For what it's worth, I read somewhere that wrapping a 2T header can cause the fresh charge reflected back into the cylinder to be overheated. But if that's the only way to not melt the shroud, so be it. I read that too. The flange/header section coming off the bore is not wrapped. I tried to leave 1 bore volume unwrapped. The pipe wrap starts at the slip-fit portion of the pipe. Header is exposed to ambient air.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 21, 2020 20:10:39 GMT -5
I'm a bit confused here. You have a running 100cc (black rexy) And a parts rexy that's a 70? It did not turn out to be a 100cc. Initially 808ministroke thought it was a 100cc built at Motosource.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 21, 2020 10:06:42 GMT -5
Looking good! I would like to find one of the SYM motors around here, they look to flow a little better than my Kymco stuff. I noticed you picked up a water temp sensor, you have a change of plans or is that for a future endeavor? I bought the water temp sensor for fun and because it was in stock at the shop. 808 Cycles moves so much product tthat i realized that if you dont buy it when you see it in the store, it wll be gone the next time and you wont see it stocked for months. The water temp sensor is basically for mock up purposes for now. I would like to build a Taida water cooled stroker later. I see the bores and cranks on my local Craigslist all the time. Im considering (a) 50mm bore x 50mm crank or (b) 52.5mm bore x 52.6mm crank. --water cooled "square bore" set up, Taida Bore and Taida Crank. Oldgeek, 808 Cycles has radiators for $140. They are approximately 6" wide 10" tall. He also stocks MHR cranks for $200. I told him about the crank issues experienced by forum members with the Malossi cranks. He has not heard of any such problems locally. If you want/need the water temp sensor, let me know. I can send you the one i have, no problems. I already got the 105mm stud kit for you...and one bonus SEF ramp plate. PM me your address.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 20, 2020 11:19:53 GMT -5
I took off the chrome strainer for the Koso fan shroud. mocked up the chrome air scoop. I would have to grind down the 2 mounting points for the fan strainer. I don't really feel like doing that to this nice fan cover.
my alternate plan is to buy a different fan shroud, might just end up going with the chrome fan shroud to go with the chrome air scoop. just make it all Flashy. Or maybe will just go with the fake carbon shroud, will just have the see what is in stock on the day I go back to 808 Cycles to buy stuff.
in the meantime, I am modifying the stock airbox. I bought a rubber boot that fits the mouth of a 28mm OKO. I am in the process of fitting the boot to the stock airbox. I really just wanted to run it with the 1.5" velocity stack, but that would be LOUD. I am going to Quiet and Fast on this engine build. the local laws have changed recently because they are trying to crackdown on "loud mopeds".
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 20, 2020 11:01:32 GMT -5
...more gatherings... 2 sets 105mm stainless steel stud kit $14 each SEF ramp plate $16 2 DIO clutch nuts $3 each Chrome fan scoop $15 TTO water temp sensor $50 pink Koso cooling fan $30 ** 105mm Stainless stud kit and SEF ramp plate ** reserved for Oldgeek.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 20, 2020 10:51:15 GMT -5
some parts and modifications Koso fan shroud with the chrome fan strainer removed. unwrapped exhaust header for the Arrow exhaust. large boot mounted to carb. stock DD50 airbox with carb boot removed. started opening it up with a Dremel. DD50 airbox mocked up with the large carb boot. need to get a 1-7/8" hole saw to make the hole in the DD50 airbox nice. the outer cover of the DD50 fan shroud did not allow the Arrow pipe to bolt up nicely. the outer cover was touching the pipe. Takegawa rear brake arm. got it at 808 Cycles for a deal. the arm was priced at $35. he sold me the whole assembly for $35 that day. ...the Treasure Hunt...
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 16, 2020 21:06:27 GMT -5
Is there an RC car shop in your area?
If so, do they sell nitro RC cars/trucks there?
I go to an RC hobby shop here and they sell yellow Tygon lines that are made to handle gasoline. They sell lots of other transparent/colored fuel tubing, all in different colors, but those are specifically for Nitro. The yellow Tygon is specific for gasoline. The shop i go to has 2 sizes on spools. The small size i use for oil injection coming off the oil pump. The larger size i use as fuel line and the supply line from the oil reservoir to the oil pump.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 16, 2020 20:33:43 GMT -5
The pipe depends on what your intended goal is.
If you plan on using the pipe on the MHR 77, get a pipe that will hit the target power band of the MHR bore.
However, if you get a good racing pipe (which is later intended for the MHR) that pipe with the Sport bore might run like crap. The Sport bore's timings might end up too low for the racing pipe. The bore probably wont spin enough RPM to get the pipe to pressurize, thus making it impossible/difficult to get "on the pipe".
You could always just slap a YMS v8 on it in the meantime, especially if you're going the Sport bore route.
Do you still have the PG exhaust? If you want to sell it, let me know and give me a price. I'll buy it if you want to sell it.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 15, 2020 21:58:53 GMT -5
Are you going to take off the head to see what the 5 soft seizes may have done?
Or at least check the compression.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 15, 2020 21:12:42 GMT -5
This picture explains a lot for me! No wonder the temps I was seeing were not = to the seizes I was having. I never seen that happen before. I have pinched the wire before but never seen the probe come out of the ring like that. Good catch!
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