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Post by repherence2 on Jan 15, 2020 21:06:17 GMT -5
Do you have a CHT gage?
I read that strokers are prone to heat spikes and snapping belts.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 15, 2020 20:56:54 GMT -5
repherence2 I think those would work fine, I may ask you to pick a set up for me if I ever decide to get going on this build again. I lost interest working on it due to the crank BS. I have been directing my energy to the 103cc when I have scooter time. I totally understand Oldgeek. I feel your pain. I'm off from work this weekend so I'll be hitting up the moped shops again on Saturday. My plan is to pick up another stud kit (so i have a back up set). I'll grab you a set too since he has it in stock right now. No problem, no worries. As far as your crankshaft goes, do you want me to source one for you? Im pretty sure the shop (808Cycles) that i got the stud kit from has the MHR crank. Those are common here at shops and on Craigslist. Im pretty sure the owner at 808Cycles would let me fit up the variator parts before i purchase it. He has drive faces in stock. He also has KELI variators and SEF ramp plates too. If not, no big deal. Im actually planning on getting an MHR crank for myself for future use, in case my Taiwan crank blows up. Let me know what you think. I will do a price and availability check this weekend.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 15, 2020 20:39:09 GMT -5
Love that koso cover, good tough plastic. That chrome bit has to go though, better with a scoop, just swapped mine out the other week. Islandscrub, You must be psychic, that is exactly the plan. Remove the chrome piece and mount a scoop on it. And yes, the Koso plastic looks pretty tough.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 15, 2020 20:35:40 GMT -5
Dieseling? Are referring to rephrence2s part about the scooter kept running EVEN after “Killswitch Engage”? If so that is pretty scary. I have 3/4 bottle full of Traxxas Top Fuel in 20% from an old nitro truck I once had, (moved on to electric crawlers now) I should probably dispose of it, but I’m very curious of this smell. Is the aroma (NOT odor) going to be the same as like it was running in my truck or will it be different since it’s mixed with 93 octane? Or should I just flush this thought totally out of my mind? At 1½ oz you still have the smell. It is faint but still noticeable. Be careful with the 20% fuel. If you are thinking of burning it off on your scoot, Do Not Add Too Much. Like i stated earlier, i don't recommend it. I was lucky when it dieseled because i was running a wide open carb. To finally kill it, i covered the carb mouth with my hand. Honestly, i was very scared when it happened. That's why i dont recommend it. But yes, even on a full tank with 1oz of nitro you can still smell a tint on nitro in the exhaust. Be forewarned that some have said the nitro might damage rubber seals or carb internal parts. I cannot verify this. If you still intend on using up that nitro, do not put more than 1 oz on a full tank untill you get the feel of it. Do not put more than 3 oz, unless you want to experience the "Dieseling". That was scary and no Bueno.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 15, 2020 10:24:12 GMT -5
I got the cylinder installed. I had to use stock head bolts because I was unable to find studs the right length anywhere I looked. Now I know what the spacers they sent me were for. I also sealed up the reeds and intake. I snapped a picture of the stock reed assembly I modified, and also the JB weld back filler I made for the reed block. I doubt it will add more than a few xtra miles per hour to this build. Oldgeek, The shop i went to yesterday sells stud kits. I bought a 105mm stainless steel set. I think it would suit your bore. The studs i used on my DD50 engine build initially were 120mm. Pretty long. I actually had to use a washer between the head and stud nut. It also had a lot of threads protruding past the nut when torqued. I think it was a stud kit for mini stroker and full stroker. The 105 set has 20mm of threads on each end. The unthreaded shank is 65mm. No threads protruding when torqued up. I thought of you when i seen that 105mm set.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 15, 2020 10:09:09 GMT -5
WOW!Strange that pipe wrapping just came up on KiwiBiker,,the latest is to only wrap the diffuser and belly as Wobbly stated here; "Effective cooling of the Ex duct is certainly effective , with the proviso that using the coldest water entering under the duct is NOT the way to go. Wrapping the header is proven to promote deto due to the returned mixture in front of the piston being overheated , ruining the trapped charges effect. But wrapping the diffuser - and then wrapping the mid or tailcone , would for sure have a positive effect , if and only if , the result was that the average pipe wall temp was maintained close to that as was tested on the dyno. You could then extrapolate that, and I agree Ken , that designing , then testing pipes already wrapped on the dyno , would increase retained heat energy as well as protecting the pipe surface from wind effects. Edit - wrapping most of the pipe would result in one downside , backing off into a corner the surface will remain hotter for longer, this may affect off corner acceleration helped by lower wall temp generated by heat loss from radiation." This was copied from page 2223 here; www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner/page2223From what i gathered from research and a video i seen, i did not wrap the headder. I tried to leave 1 bore volume coming off the bore unwrapped. So basically, i started the wrap at the beginning of the slip-fit portion of the pipe itself. It has a separate flange/headder section which is not wrapped.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 15, 2020 9:57:41 GMT -5
Great news then! Can you post a link where did you got yours? Why did you picked KOSO over the OEM one? I bought it from a local shop yesterday (808 Cycles). It was the only Koso left in stock. He also had replacement aftermarket shrouds. They look like stock af18 covers. He had chrome, blue chrome, and fake carbon. I dont really order stuff online so i dont know which direction to point you in. All the covers were priced at $50. The Koso was the least flashy as opposed to the chrome and fake carbon shrouds.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 15, 2020 9:06:00 GMT -5
I'm wondering if the engine / fan shroud of the sym dd would fit a vertical honda engine (AF18, 24, 27, 28)...mine it's all battered up and I cannot buy a new OEM replacement since it's discontinued. My block is a SYM dd50. The Koso fan shroud is for a "DIO". It will work. The dd50 engine is a Taiwan copy of the af18 type engines.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 14, 2020 23:14:36 GMT -5
wrapped the Arrow pipe with thick fiberglass "tape". much thicker than the stuff from DEI, thermal/heat wrap.
with KOSO fan shroud
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 14, 2020 23:12:20 GMT -5
bought some parts oil pump plug clutch nut wrench stock SYM dd50 drive belt tuning weight set 105mm stud kit KOSO fan shroud rubber carb boot to adapt big carb to airbox
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21mm carb
Jan 14, 2020 10:35:10 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by repherence2 on Jan 14, 2020 10:35:10 GMT -5
Being that you are familiar with tuning, i think you should try it.
It might give you the performance that you are looking for. Also, for someone like you, tuning that carb might be super easy.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 13, 2020 22:08:45 GMT -5
What is the length on the stock Kymco belt? Would a Cinarelli belt work? 788-18-30. Stock Kymco is 727-17.5-30 I believe the stock Kymco pulley is the "ZX" pulley the Elite guys use. The Kymco pulley is definitely bigger than the stock Elite pulley. Unless they are talking about the DIO "ZX" pulley, which I know nothing about. Yeah, it's the DIO ZX trans. Kymcos are very rare here. Never seen a modified/ fast one on Oahu.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 13, 2020 21:24:54 GMT -5
A dieseling scooter, huh?
I guess this world hasn't given up all of it's surprises yet.
Though this one does sound as though it was under pretty special circumstances......... From what i researched, it is because nitro methane has available oxygen in it.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 13, 2020 21:19:45 GMT -5
Has anyone tried the oko carb with a powerjet i know it dont stick in the middle of the air path but i have read it works well on 2 strokes . I know most like the dellorto i ran one way back on my puch in the 80s and 48 ida on a vw bug i deal with the mikuni style the thing is real ones don't have the power jet oko do seems easier to jet wide open . I ran a clone 26 OKO with power jet. It can be a pain to tune it. While doing research on it, i found on other forums that most people block off the fuel line going to the power jet with a small BB to disable it. I was too hard headed to give up so i persisted until i figured it out. Normally, i tune for Wide Open Throttle and i tune by cylinder head temperature, no plug chops for me. I dont read plugs. I use temperature to dictate my Main Jet and i tune for a temp of 350° F at WOT. That allows me to hold WOT all day without worrying about seizing the piston. A carb with a Power Jet, your main jet is used for 3/4 to 7/8 throttle. Past 7/8 throttle, the Power Jet comes online. So when you tune with a power jet carb you have to keep in mind that at WOT, 2 jets, the Main and the Power jet are providing fuel. It was a massive headache until i understood how it worked. A 26mm carb with a Power Jet will use a smaller main jet when compared to a 26mm carb (no power jet) on the same engine set up. I recommend tuning with a Cylinder Head Temp gage so you can see how its running. When tuned right, you will notice when the Power Jet comes online via the CHT gage. You will see a small drop in temperature when you transition from 3/4 throttle to WOT. Just so you know, Tuning a wide open (no airbox, no filter) pwk carb with power jet can be a nightmare.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 13, 2020 20:27:08 GMT -5
What is the length on the stock Kymco belt?
*edit* i just went back a few pages and seen the specs for the Polini belt.
Would a Cinarelli belt work? 788-18-30.
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