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Post by repherence2 on Jan 13, 2020 20:25:20 GMT -5
If you have a stock minarelli TD, maybe swap out the over range TD for a stock minarelli TD and see how that performs.
Or maybe run the "zx trans" setup like most of the Hawaii guys. It's the ZX torque drive pulley and belt. But then again, your Kymco may have came with the ZX sized TD. I'm unfamiliar with the Kymco bikes.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 13, 2020 20:11:49 GMT -5
Or ask a friend that vapes to blow a big cloud down there to see where it goes. I could do that myself but the scooter may get a bit of a contact high 420 lol
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 13, 2020 10:40:48 GMT -5
The butt dyno results are in! Apparently the 21mm Dellorto carb was holding this motor back a fair amount. The 28mm PWK has improved overall performance quite a bit and it is not fully tuned yet. I am also still working on the CVT setup. What you experienced with the carb, going from a 21 Dell to a 28 PWK, is the same reason all the "Hawaiians" run the 28 OKO pwk here. Virtually all the OKOs here are the same price 24/26/28. So most people go for "the bigger is better". Pretty much everyone on Oahu runs the 28 wide open, some people run the velocity stack too. The Downside: 1. The OKO 28 pwk drinks/guzzles so much gas. 2. Low throttle tuning on the 28 pwk's can be a struggle. Often times you'll see the Honda guys adjusting their carb at stop lights. Why they do that, i have no clue, maybe it's to draw attention to themselves. However, to solve the low throttle response problem, you can fabricate and install a Venturri Divider. It's a plate that splits the carb mouth in 1/2. From 1/2 throttle and below, all the air is channelled in via the lower portion of the divider plate. It improves the vacuum and velocity allowing for a better draw of fuel from the main jet. I made and installed my own after reading about it from Rich's Taylor'd Porting. Tried it out and never had problems with 1/2 throttle and below after that. I love the top end of the 28 PWKs. Wide open throttle on those carbs are Fun.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 13, 2020 10:09:40 GMT -5
Nice info...but I must publish some info. Adding nitromethane will certainly make your engine run good...as long as it is still in your fuel. If you put expensive shite like that in, you need to burn it all up quickly. As soon as you park it, the nitro-methane will be the first molecules to relieve out of the vent. I would estimate, that over a 12 hour period at 70 degrees F, all your cash is vapor. Remember, your engine is still hot when you stop. Just cash. Your cash. The real thought is...that any time your tank vent is expelling excess pressure, it is always the lightest molecules. Even 95 RON...or 91...or AVGAS. The lightest stuff vaporizes first. Remember this: Petrol or diesel is a combination of fuel components. The lighter ones aid in starting your combustion, while the heavier ones are giving real power. I totally agree ThaiGyro. I just did the nitro for fun because i smelled in a group of Honda Elite exhaust smoke. So i wanted to try it. The RC shop where i bought it was totally against the idea. They said, "it wont make much of a difference, it will just run hotter." I liked it for the smell. I did find that 3 ounces of 25% rc aircraft nitro is not a good idea. Bike ran fast, but the engine did not stop running when i hit the kill switch. No Bueno. I never put more than 1.5 oz after that on a full tank. Like someone stated a while ago, all it does is Lean out the fuel mix. It had a little more pep than regular. In the end i switched to 15% simply for the lubrication and the exhaust smell. I kept a refill bottle of 2 stroke oil and a refill bottle of 15% nitro in my seat bucket. The nitro was only for the days I'd go hunting Hondas and SYMs. I dont recommend it. Im just saying that it is possible, it was an experiment for me, but too much is No Good. My 94cc with the OKO 28 guzzled SO MUCH gas that it was pretty easy for me to clear out that gas tank. It guzzled way to much gas.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 10, 2020 20:58:53 GMT -5
Brakleen or brake cleaner.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 10, 2020 20:54:27 GMT -5
aeroxbud Yes your right! I pulled the plug and she was mighty dirty. It had almost a hardened crusted oil build up on the round base. The electrode looked shot, I didn’t know how to look at these iridium plugs’ electrode to suspect a shot plug a opposed to the copper versions. I may need to chill out on my addition of the Maxima 927 castor oil on fill ups. The oil pump is doing it’s job with Lucas Semi-synthetic in the oil res. but I may be adding too much to the gas/petrol tank when filling up. The 927 is a race formula and I’m sure they didn’t develop it for our primitive 2-strokes to sit at idle too long hence a fouled plug. I just like using the 927 for its smell! i replaced it with an identical NGK BR8HIX ($9.52) I still run my oil injection pump on my 70cc and my 94cc. However, i adjusted the throttle cable at the pump. I have a throttle cable that splits into 2. One goes to the pump and the other to the carb. I ran Lucas 2 stroke oil for a while because O'Reilly always had it for a decent price. I assumed it was good oil because of the brand name. After a teardown of the bore, i found thick hard carbon deposits on my piston and on the head. After seeing that, i never bought Lucas after that. I thought about Castor 927 but i was told that it is too thick for oil injection. So i ended up trying the Castor that's labeled for oil injection. It was okay. Later on, i tried Red Line 2 stroke racing oil. Loved it because i would pour it right into the oil reservoir. I liked the performance of it, but it was pricey. There were times when the shop was out of stock so i needed an alternative. My alternative was Motul 710. I loved that oil too. Often times, i would blend the Red Line racing oil with the Motul 710. That worked out well too. Since i switched to Motul and RedLine, now those are the only 2 oils i use. No more thick carbon deposits anymore. I dont put oil into the gas tank either, only into the oil reservoir. Oil injection all the way! Lol When I'd go hunting Hondas on the weekend, i used to add 1½ ounces of 15% nitro for rc planes when i'd fill up gas at the gas station. A lot of the honda guys here like to put those additives to make their exhaust smell fruity. I liked making them smell the Nitro as i passed them Haven't fouled plugs since then.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 7, 2020 20:54:07 GMT -5
With a 52 pilot jet, how many turns out is your air screw?
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 7, 2020 20:50:26 GMT -5
Polini makes a carb airbox adapter. I bought one with my polini cp 24 carb. It adapted my stock airbox to the polini cp 24 carb mouth.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 6, 2020 10:01:23 GMT -5
In order to use the Stage 6 or clutches like the Polini Evo or Malossi Fly/Delta im pretty sure you need a smaller clutch bell (107mm?) Those clutches are smaller in diameter than the stock one.
For stock chinese clutch bell, i ran the NCY lightened clutch and i tried NCY yellows (med) and NCY red (stiff). That clutch was okay.
I found that you can run DIO clutches on a minarelli rear pulley provided that you have a 107mm bell. I use a Polini clutch bell. My Stage 6 Torque Control, Polini Evo 2, and Malossi Fly were all labeled as DIO when i bought them.
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Post by repherence2 on Jan 3, 2020 21:00:26 GMT -5
Just pulled the trigger on: Polini Corsa C16 Delorto 21mm I’ll post more when they come in. You should look into getting: 1. Roller weight tuning set. Probably going to have to set rollers to less than 5 grams with that bore and pipe. 2. Stiffer cluth spring set. You will probably have to stall the clutch to a higher rpm to get the bore/pipe into its power range. I like the Stage 6 clutch for the ease of adjustability. 3. Cylinder Head Temp gauge so that you dont seize your brand new Corsa while you are jetting the carb. Unlike most tuners, i tune my main jet based on the temp at Wide Open Throttle. I tune to 350F at WOT. 4. A tachometer to make CVT tuning easier. You can see when clutch engages and RPM as the CVT is shifting. Helps with roller weight tuning too. I wish you success! P.s. 5. A main jet kit for your new carb. Best in increments of 2.
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Post by repherence2 on Dec 13, 2019 11:02:16 GMT -5
I have always just used the stock pump that operates off of the throttle cable. However, i did adjust the cable accordingly. When i went from stock 40mm to 47mm big bore, i adjusted the oil pump throttle cable. Most shops here on Oahu tell riders to add a capfull of oil in the gas during fill up to compensate for the big bore kit. I adjusted my pump so that i didnt have to worry about adding oil during fill ups. I ran a Chinese economy bbk first, Motoforce midrace next, Malossi Sport bbk, then an NCY cast iron bbk, and finally back to my Chinese economy bbk that i heavily ported. All of those bores on an oil pump. Actually it was a used Mikuni pump that i got for free from a shop to replace my Chinarelli pump. On my 90 block, i still ran the oil pump that came with the engine. Even when i changed the stock 50mm bore to a 54mm, just adjusted the cable. At one point, i burned a hole in a piston from using a 47mm squish head on a 50mm bore so i had to swap back to the 47mm engine. I did run into a problem of excessive smoke at some point during engine swaps. I dont recall if it was going from the 90 block to the 50 block or if it was when i switched back from the 50 to the 90 block. That proved to me that the oil setting between the 50 and the 90 differs. Bottom line, i ran oil pumps for years. Never had any failures. I pounded my 50 block going everywhere on it as well as to work. Everyday it made a round trip from Waikiki to Pearl Harbor. With the 90 block i would ride it to work everyday from Waimanalo to Pearl Harbor. Even with over 14,000 Km no pump failure. I stayed with the oil pump so that i could Lure the Honda guys at the gas station into racing. I'd pull in to gas stations whenever I'd see a pack of Hondas adding oil to the gas tank and rocking their bikes. I'd pull up and top off gas just for fun and to lure them in. Get onto the street and then outrun them when they all try to pull on me . Fun times, smoking modified hondas for fun. Oil injection all the way!
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Post by repherence2 on Dec 13, 2019 9:57:53 GMT -5
If you plan to "sell the PoS" just put that head back on and sell it.
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Post by repherence2 on Dec 12, 2019 20:25:11 GMT -5
Airsal does that with their moped cylinders too,the piston dome is shaped with a flat portion so the bore mismatch fits the 50cc head..Its a band-aid engineering fix so they could delete a new head with their kit..Bean counters won again!"Squish" is exactly what happens with a proper setup,as the mixture is squeezed away from the cylinder wall into the combustion chamber in the center..If the squish is too big the burning mixture will quickly travel to the bore edges and cause detonation..Soo with a setup like this,I'd guess to set the squish gap to the edge of the bore as we always do and hope for the best.. I bought a 50mm hoca bore kit that did not come with a head. I figured i could take an NCY squish band head for a 47mm bore. I ran for several weeks and i was stoked because it was a pretty fast set up. I was new to the game at that time. It was fast until it died one day. Pulled the head and found a hole in the piston the size of dime. Looking back on it, when the bike was idling, i could hear some soft "ping...ting ting...ping...ting." but i didn't know better because i was a noob. I never did check the compression on it. So i just assumed it was because the compression was too high. 10 years ago i was planning on Frankenstein-ing my 94 accord with an F series block. I wanted to build a "G22" which meant putting an H22 VTEC head on an F22 block and turbocharging it. From what i gathered during research, the bores on each engine had a difference a of a few millimeters. So, when placing an H head on an F block, there would be a flat ring edge where the head mated to the block. F series bore was bigger than H series bores. From what i gathered, that flat edge (and the corner) would lead to heat building up on the edge, which could lead to detonation under boost.
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Post by repherence2 on Dec 10, 2019 20:19:18 GMT -5
Ive always been a polini fan after runing the corsa and comparing it to malossi's mhr rep. And cast iron bores. Also had some bad luck with a BNIB malossi full circle crank for my dio. So im not gonna gamble my $ on their OR kit. I like stage 6 parts too but they are nvr in stock state side so that leaves polini. Oldgeek recently ran into that same crank issue too.
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Post by repherence2 on Dec 10, 2019 10:28:10 GMT -5
I had a 10" wheel GTX, chinese minarelli clone. I guess Mopeds Direct imported them with Ruima cranks that were large taper and large spline (jog90) here on Oahu. I tried a Motoforce mid race 70 with a Leo Vince ZX-R. It was the fastest of all of my 47mm bores. It seemed like it was being held back by the Leo Vince pipe. I was new to the scene at that time so i really didn't know about pipes. It was a decent set up. Never GPS'd for speed. The speedo needle would go off-scale at "50" and get to an approximate "60+" on the stock speedo. But that's with the stock speedo indicating 5mph over actual. however, it was the first set up that i was actually able to run with the SYMs and ELITEs here on Oahu. Then i moved on to the 90 blocks. No longer dealing with high revs. 54mm bore with a 90cc YMS v8 pipe, Malossi upgears. It stays below 10k rpm. It can outrun a lot of the Hondas and SYMs on oahu. Way less maintenance and its faster than any of the 70cc bores i tried.
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