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Post by repherence2 on Nov 19, 2019 20:37:20 GMT -5
I actually had to file the ring end gaps to get them to spec, not used to having to do that! Did a final check on the cylinder and base spacer, then cleaned them up. I hope to get it sealed up and installed tomorrow in between jobs at work. Sometimes i wonder if PG does that on purpose. To make it so that tuners that know what they are doing can get better performance. I seen pictures from a former local shop in which they were welding up several brand new PG Long pipes. Then, months later i came across the Scooter Swap Shop exhaust dyno testing video. And there it was, "the PG flip cone" modified pipe. It seems like only the people in-the-know knew that the PG Longs performed much better with the inner cone "flipped".
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Post by repherence2 on Nov 19, 2019 20:14:29 GMT -5
Oldgeek, PM me if you really want a stud kit for the stoker bore. I always see them posted on CL Oahu. Several local shops also stud kits here. If you really want a kit i can pick up a set and mail it to, no problem. I really interested in seeing what the 50mm PG bore can do because i still plan on getting that bore kit. I have my MHR replica mocked up and assembled on the block. However, i have been holding back from final assembly because i am waiting to see how the PG bore performs.
--edit-- i checked my texts from a local craigslist seller. Stainless steel stud kit (according to his listing) $20.
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Post by repherence2 on Nov 18, 2019 20:17:04 GMT -5
Are you sure your variator is even capable of the belt being able to achieve "max/full" travel?
Stock variators are limited by the roller ramps on the variator. On aftermarket variators, the ramps extend further out than the stock variator roller ramps.
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Post by repherence2 on Nov 13, 2019 20:12:57 GMT -5
If the atv has a vacuum operated petcock for the fuel, it might be that the petcock is no good. Transparent fuel lines are good to check for flow or air bubbles in the fuel lines.
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Post by repherence2 on Nov 13, 2019 9:57:34 GMT -5
Have you tried flat washers and split lock washers? If you use studs, mount the flage and gasket, then place a flat washer, then a split lock washer, and finally the nut. If you are using bolts, place a split lock washer against the bolt head, then the flat washer under that, and then bolt up the flange.
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Post by repherence2 on Nov 8, 2019 20:38:28 GMT -5
Get a cylinder head temp gauge and keep it below 350°f and you should be safe.
Be careful on too rich. I tried to jet my oko 28 with fat jets because most setups i read about ran jets from 130-150. So i bought a full range of jets from 130-160 and tried all of them. When the jets were 140 or greater on my engine, it actually ran hotter on my engine. Without my temp gauge, i would have never known that it was getting hotter.
I ended up running a 125 main on my 94cc. I could hold WOT for as long as i wanted to at 350°f.
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Post by repherence2 on Nov 7, 2019 22:37:02 GMT -5
Im happy for you oldgeek. Seems like the bike is haulin' during certain portions of the video. Im assuming that's when you pull full throttle.
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Post by repherence2 on Nov 6, 2019 20:11:24 GMT -5
Stock gearing! Wheelie machine!
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Post by repherence2 on Nov 6, 2019 1:14:31 GMT -5
"Gearing: 6.08" for real kind Oldgeek? that's not TOO tall for that set up? everything I seen on hondaspree was 7.5 and 7.0 at the lowest for full strokers. all the stoker guys there run 26-30+mm carbs for strokers. stroker pipes are fat in general. the canister and the rest of the pipe are fat in comparison to the typical 70cc pipes. Gdash pipe that I seen listed on CL for 100-125 stroker Scooter Alley full stroker Scorpion listed on CL. PG Phongeer stroker pipe im not saying your Peace Pipe is wrong. I just never seen it. is it Fat like the rest of the DIO stroker pipes? I think the 21 Dell is holding you back too. I am full on biased to fat 28mm PWKs now that I understand how to tune the OKOs. WOT topend, no comparison to the CP 24 polini. CP 24/airbox is better for the city, short bursts and great low/mid range. the wide open OKO 28 is a beauty at WOT. pretty shitty at part throttle but I have found that it makes a big difference at WOT and max speed. I tried to stick with the CP 24/airbox on my 94cc minarelli, but there was no doubt that the 28 OKO handled WOT much better, the bike was faster because it had more power on the top end.
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Post by repherence2 on Nov 6, 2019 0:28:38 GMT -5
Its horizonal , but I do not know much about other scooters I just own one. Its Cobra racer. I did peak on over at Parts For Scooters didn't seen anything at all. If it fits a Kymco Cobra or other Kymco like I've been seeing Top Boy or Super 8 , Could you forward the link if that's the case please ? Sadly I gave up on scootertuningca , I recently tried connecting with them and buying parts there , I don't know why but the guy acted absolutely clueless on anything Kymco , very unfortunate.
it might use the same pipes as the Honda AF34 or AF35 engine.
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Post by repherence2 on Nov 6, 2019 0:27:42 GMT -5
I did think about that today. The flange is looking some different colored then the pipe. Yes maybe something there. I guess I could take it off fill it with water and see what happens ? I guess if that is the case, then its ruined ?
air test with soap bubble solution.
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Post by repherence2 on Nov 6, 2019 0:24:07 GMT -5
Its clean , its flat as far as I can tell and tested and checked the straightness of the pipe flange last week. Ive tried all kinds of gasket ideas. It has been just about impossible to find the right O ring crush gasket. I cant find currently I just don't understand it.
so I take it you have been only using the o-ring type gasket, instead of the flat gasket with the copper flat ring in the center.
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Post by repherence2 on Nov 6, 2019 0:16:40 GMT -5
two of the three have that "plunger" you describe and i have all three rollers - one of them has some flat sides on it though. I should be able to take it apart again tomorrow and see if i can free what may be two of the springs. Then maybe i can search my garage for the missing one, but that seems unlikely to turn up. I took the whole engine off so am in no hurry to throw it all back together. I want it to be right. Last summer I took the center stand off to repair it (a weld came off and the stand no longer stood the moped up) but i never figured where to get the spring attached. I also wanted to take care of the oil leaking issue. (and like a dumdum i spilled the oil tank all over my garage while removing the engine...lol). I was thinking I'd be replacing the crank and bearings so this starter clutch would be much nicer than having to do that.
if it's not an immediate problem, you might as well look into ordering/buying a new one. as you say, one of the rollers is flat spotted. sometimes it's a more quick start up with the kick starter anyway. if you decide to order a new starter clutch, be aware that there is the small spline (jog50) and the large spline (jog90). but while you at ordering a new starter clutch, you probably should order a new bearing for starter ring gear too. might as well overhaul that too.
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Post by repherence2 on Nov 5, 2019 20:44:33 GMT -5
What size carb are you running?
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Post by repherence2 on Nov 5, 2019 20:34:53 GMT -5
Is your exhaust flange on the bore flat?
Gotta make sure both mating surfaces are flat. The flange face on the bore as well as the flange face on the exhaust pipe. You can run a flat file over the mating surfaces to make sure they are flat.
Another possibility is that the flanges are not free of oil residue and the sealant is not bonding. Or possibly the flanges are too smooth. The mating surface where you apply sealant might need to be scuffed up with some 80 grit sand paper.
Every cylinder bore that i have seen does not have threaded sleeves. All of them have threads tapped directly into the base metal, even the aluminum bores too. There was a time when i hit a pothole and it ripped the pipe completely off my aluminum bore, destroying the female threads on the exhaust flange of the bore. I ended up buying a helicoil kit to fix the threads on the bore flange.
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