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Post by paydem on Dec 11, 2017 17:17:14 GMT -5
"Now why would someone risk going to the substrate on plastic? It isn't metal." "I learned from DuPont and PPG engineers, but what do they know?"If you're being careful then no, you're not going to manipulate it in any wrong way... I'm not trying to start beef with some pro guy, who learned from profesionnals, I'm saying what has worked out BEST for me. Maybe it's a rocket science when you stack layers of paint on one another? "Sure, if you like wasting paint and over coating."What's so wrong about three layers of clear, especially when you have runs to sand off, etc.? "Cure time for the polymer in the paint."Are we doing show level paint jobs over here? I want to paint my scooter and what, I'm going to wait week or more to get it done? "So much work, so like after all that paining and prep, you gotta do it again?"So I'm saying if you're doing clear coat for the first time, you will probably get runs, you can sand it off, so what so wrong about having thick layer of clear? "Yes, Craigslist, or perhaps onto Indian Show room floors. Thanks for sounding off."
Only dumb fucks remove paint if they want it that way, huh? And yeah, I'm the one who's sounding off here... gyazo.com/26fd574a126da765eddc6ae6c214cc13
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Post by paydem on Dec 11, 2017 15:36:57 GMT -5
SOOO much advice to give.. so first of all.. Do NOT sand your plastics, you only need to scuff it up. Just a light scuff, you don't need to dig in. Take the scuff pad and just do some sweeps over the part to be painted. The purpose of scuffing it up, is so that the paint has something to adhere to. To explain this a little better, think of a sheet of glass. Imagine what would happen, if you sprayed a coat of paint on it, and then let it dry... You'd be able to easily take a scraper, or even your fingernail, and scrape that paint off. Now think of that same sheet of glass, scuffed up. You now have little bitty grooves that the paint will sink into, locking it in place. My suggestion for scuff pads would be to pick up some of these: www.amazon.com/dp/B002NEWYNWThe reason you don't want to sand the plastics, is you risk removing contours, you can get streaks and runs if you do it by hand and not a rotary sander, and you risk hitting the substrate, which you do NOT want to do. I would only sand as a last resort to correct pitting or other type of imperfections. You'd want to sand using a 320 grit at most, then follow up with a 600 grit. Once you have the scuffing/sanding down, it's time to move on to prep for the part. This is a vital, and very often overlooked step for the home painters. First of all, you'll want to paint somewhere that will keep contamination away as much as possible. If you have a garage, you're almost set. Best way to approach it, is make yourself a makeshift paint booth in your garage. You don't need that big of an area. To make one, buy some rolls of plastic that are long enough to go from floor to ceiling. Make yourself a little makeshift paint booth in a corner, by running plastic down from the ceiling all around the work area, and tape them together with duct tape so that you have an enclosed room. Put the door/opening to get inside somewhere towards the end and place a small fan on the floor by the door that blows outwards to let paint fumes out. Turn on the fan, and let it run for about 5 minutes before doing the actual painting, plenty of time to prep the part. To prep the part for painting, get a lint free cloth and soak it in a mixture of 50%rubbing alcohol 50% water. Wring it out, and use it to wipe down your parts before painting. What you're looking to do here, is get rid of all the fine dust particle that may be present. After you have done that, you'll want to use a dry tack cloth (preferably one with beeswax), and go over the part again. THEN you are ready to paint. When painting, always start your stream BEFORE the part, and use a steady motion all the way across. For a proper paint job, you'll want each coat to rest for 3 days. Sure it might be dry after a couple hours, but if you want a pro look, you need patience and cure time. After resting for 3 days, again, give it a wash down with the alcohol mix and a good tack job before moving on to the next coat. Soooo much more I could go over here, but right now I'm asking myself "what the hell am I still doing up at this hour when I have work in the morning". Good luck. Old thread but I can not let this go through my eyes like that. I grew up around cars and motorcycles, my father worked in painting shop for a long time and I learn almost everything from him. Bad preparation work if you have any respect for your scooter. Strip down the most of the old paint. Work up to 600 grit, clean it with paint thinner, apply one or two coats of primer (depens on what you're using), scrub the primer with 600 then 800, then start applying base coat. First coat must be light so you don't get any runs, wait 15-30 minutes depending on the temperature you're working in and do another coat. Wait for the base coat to dry for 24 hours. Apply clear cloat, wait 15-30 minutes, again, it depends on what temperature you're in. Apply two or even three coats of clear so you have some room for later. Wait 24 hours and you're done. Not sure why you're saying that you need to wait three days between coats, it's a waste of time and the paint bonds better when waiting 15-30 minutes between coats. After applying clear coat, scrub it with 1000 grit so remove any imperfections, if you're not happing with your job you can reapply clear coat, just be sure not to scrub into base coat as you will need to redo all of this again. You can polish the paint to make it look even better. The finished look will look something like this (picture below) if you do your preparation work good, use quality paint ant clear coat. Prep work like yours could work out if you're planning to put it on craigslist, but I would not waste my time in doing it. No primer and clear coat - nonono
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Post by paydem on Dec 10, 2017 16:11:14 GMT -5
These mods shouldnt hurt acceleration as long as the belt is all the way at the bottom of the variator and the top of the torque driver pulley..I enjoyed watching the vid(s),and think it would increase roller wear,but the added travel would be worth it with some stock variators.. Mhm... If the belt does not reach the top of the variator, my first instinct would be is to get a wider belt, but then I should modify TD pulley so the belt doesn't sit as high, am I right? If you had stock variator, would you file down the place where variator and front pulley contacts or you would you rather buy a wider belt?
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Post by paydem on Dec 10, 2017 13:19:31 GMT -5
Found a video on Youtube about cutting variator to get around +15-20km/h in top speed. Would be interesting to hear your opinions about this. In where I live, they teach us to speak Russian so I have no problems understanding what he says. 0:22 talking about how the belt wasn't going up to the top 3:00 breaking off excessive material off variator to extend roller's drive ramp distance 4:05 dremelling out the surface to make it smooth 7:33 showing how the roller can go further now 8:20 showing how the belt is not reaching the top 9:19 filing the variator so the two plates come closer together 12:36 shows how the belt can go up to the top www.youtube.com/watch?v=v56cVUhgrQkThis would kill the acceleration by alot, any thoughts?
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Post by paydem on Dec 10, 2017 10:49:20 GMT -5
Tecnigas Next-R exhausts are a low priced decent exhaust. Not to difficult to tune. . You could go for a milder tune with a Silent Pro or Wild Lion from Malossi. Here are all of your choices from Racing Planet. I thought I have stock exhaust, turns out I have Silent Pro already. It's damaged and has an exhaust leak, and it doesn't look good for me. From what I've heard Leovince TT has similar performance and comes with rollers, turns out Next-R has better performance and quality... If anyone has better recommendantions, share it
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Post by paydem on Dec 10, 2017 9:18:03 GMT -5
In the winter I'm planning to put a sports pipe on my Yamaha Jog R, now the engine is completely stock. At first I was going to buy Gianelli Extra V2, but after some research, I decided to not do it, it's the weakest pipe I can get.
I'm not planning to run 49cc any longer than I should be. Once the stock cylinder gives up, I'm putting in a low-end cylinder, so I would be happy if the pipe communicated well with low-end cylinders, saying it in the other words: it should have good performance on a stock cylinder as well as aftermarket one.
Best price to performance ratio. My budget is funny so I don't want to spend hundreds. Most likely will buy second hand one if I'm not getting it at a good price. Any tips?
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Post by paydem on Dec 5, 2017 9:28:46 GMT -5
Although I hate mixing gas everytime I fill up, I still run premix. In my case I have stock oil pump with 10k km's on it and no matter what anyone says, I don't trust it. I sound too much paranoid, but even in my area we had cases when stock oil pumps let out and seized perfectly running engines.
I thought that I would be eaten alive for questioning a such thing, thankfully it didn't happen. I never go idle down a hill, but i have a lot of hill's in my area so it was interesting to see what your opinions would be.
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Post by paydem on Dec 3, 2017 14:48:07 GMT -5
After unhooking my oil pump I came up with a couple of questions. Is it better for the engine to coast with oil pump or without it?
For example, I ride at full speed, then let off the gas. The CVT still spins the engine at a certain RPM (higher than idle, of course), but if I don't give any gas, the engine does not receive the lubrication it needs, right? On a geared moped it's easy - you just pull in the clutch and the RPM drops, the engine braking is out of the way. But what about the scooters?
In my eyes, the oil pump supplies more oil when you're coasting and throttle is shut RATHER than when the oil pump is unhooked and you're running premix. I 95% certain that I'm making no sense with my words whatsoever...
It would be interesting so hear out your opinions about this topic.
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Post by paydem on Dec 1, 2017 7:50:59 GMT -5
Amazing! Simply amazing coincidence! Been trying to chase down a no-start, then a no-idle problem for days on my 95 jog. It has been suffering for a while with poorer and poorer performance, lately unable to get up my insanely-steep hill to get home. I had done all the usual things....again, wracking my brain trying to trouble-shoot this problem(s). Just today I was able to get it started and keep it running (barely), by removing the auto enrichener power, so it was running, albeit slowly...very slowly, and did respond to nearly full rich needle setting and throttle screw increases. Re-plugging in the enrichener always killed it. From this result, I am assuming that there is a massive air leak(s) somewhere. I had suspected and dreaded this for some time, so yesterday just finished replacing both crankshaft seals. I believe they were both originals. The variator side seal was a right bastard, both to remove, AND to install! I have done this type of work most of my career, but I pretty nearly buggered-up this one. I was paranoid enough to buy two seal sets a while ago. So....for quite some time, I have noticed that, with the air cleaner removed, there was ALWAYS fuel spitting out of the carb mouth. I assumed that this was normal, and that it showed why you needed your air cleaner in place, since it would run badly with it off, because you were losing part of your fuel charge. Isn't that what that reverse pressure wave does? It blows back through the main jet? Isn't that why folks try to sell us those cute little anti-reversionary chambers? Boost bottles? Well, Hell! If I had not seen your post, I would be out there tomorrow, with my propane torch, going over every millimeter of the motor, trying to find an air leak. The jog intake is so far under my storage that it seems a right pain to access, without dropping the motor. So, it'll be motor-dropping time tomorrow....thanks to your comment! Even though my odometer has gone around 3 times, I did not want to believe that my OEM Yamaha could suffer parts wear! I have never seen this reed valve, but do have a new assembly, made in Taiwan, with a set of fiberglass petals. I do remember someone saying "When your steel reeds break, they destroy everything downstream from them!" Yikes! You might have warned me just in time! Thank You! I should shut up here. Just was wondering if you had snow yet in Lithuania? Am in Kalifornia, so all we get are earthquakes, surf and taxes. The earthquakes are free. Thanks again, and regards Good to hear that! Yes, in Lithuania here it have been snowing non-stop for two days already. Can't wait to fix my Jog up and try it out in the snow.
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Post by paydem on Nov 25, 2017 16:12:26 GMT -5
errmkk,glad to hear your making progress and making plans to improve your scoot,it sounds like your engine has never been looked after,before you make any changes get it running at factory settings and a full CVT check is in order.That OE belt has had a hard life IMO I,d replace it with a OE spec belt and some 6gram rollers so that you can bench mark the engine before you make the changes to the pipe and CVT. 400 views to date and your English is fine geoff Yes, the scooter is in a bad shape. I took out the spark plug and found out that it's hotter than it needs to be, 7 instead of 8. Only if I knew that it was that bad, I wouldn't had bought it. The belt I'm planning to put it has the same specs so it won't affect anything. The CVT is absolutely stock too. After I get the engine running in a good condition then I'll be screwing around for more power.
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Post by paydem on Nov 25, 2017 6:48:58 GMT -5
Not sure if anyone reads the stuff I write here, but if anyone has simiral problems and doesn't find the answer, hopefully it helps you.
After switching over to 12mm carb, the engine sometimes ran very lean, the other day it ran very rich, it was impossible to tune it properly. I raised the needle one position over from the middle and stayed with it. I had a lot of cold start problems and bogging on acceleration. I took off the air filter and found out that the gas was spitting back to the air filter box. I took off the intake manifold. The gasket was cracked and definitely was sucking in excessive air. Then I checked reed valves, and it definitely needed to be replaced too. One reed valve was stuck open, and from what I understand, that's why the fuel have been spitting back to the air filter box! I measured the fuel I used up and the MPG's are terrible, I got 6l/100km, which is equivalent to 47 mpg. After fixing all that stuff the scooter should run much richer, after tuning it I hope to get smaller fuel consumption as well as improved power.
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Post by paydem on Nov 17, 2017 6:24:28 GMT -5
On the front page I found this text.
"Yamaha / Minarelli / Jog motors (1E40QMB, 1E50QMF, 1E52QMG)"
I've always seen that Jog engine is separated from others, the new Jogs such as R and RR are no different, but how is the old one, apart from being short case? Does the Jog stand for short-cased engine in this situation?
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Post by paydem on Nov 16, 2017 12:29:38 GMT -5
Update on this thing. Still has some carb issues on cold starts. Besides that, I found out that the belt is still OEM. I measured it and the current width is 14.5mm, instead of the 16.5mm. The service manual says the limit is around 1.5mm of wear, so no wonder why it has such a low top speed. In the winter I'll be fitting a sports exhaust Gianelli Extra V2 and the rollers that will come with the set. I'll be replacing the OEM belt with the Malossi X-Special one. (745x16.5) That should take me to 80 km/h range, if it does 75 km/h - I'm happy. After that, I'll be working on acceleration mods, and do a little bit of stunting.
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Post by paydem on Nov 13, 2017 10:04:59 GMT -5
There are pics and a little info about the Chinese Minarelli short and long engines here : 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/999/90cc-minarelli-engine-swap-infoI don't know a lot about the genuine Yamaha stuff. The old Jogs should have a short case much like the Chinese variations above. Not sure if they ever did a long case like the Chinese stuff's altered gearbox as most I've seen are obviously different with a thin cover and thick area on the case for Yamahas vs hardly any lip on the case for the CVT and a thick cover (like old Jogs) for Chinese stuff. For Chinese engines, wheel size varies. Most short cases use 10" wheels, but some used narrow 12" wheels with low profile tires. Long cases sometimes use 10" wheels with big tires and sometimes used 12" wheels with 130/70-12 tires being common, and I think some may have came with 13". There are also some engines out there like the Adly style that stretch out the short case to make a long case, by adding length between the front and rear pulleys of the CVT. Belts are harder to get and cost more for those. Disc brakes are uncommon in the Chinese engines, but I know at least some are out there on long cases. Many Yamahas with drums will use different brake sizes than the Chinese engines, though I think the old Jogs may be the same as most Chinese knockoffs. Here in Europe we never saw Chinese Minarelli engines, only the real ones. I thought Aerox had long case because it had 13" wheels, and, as I figured out, both Jog R and Aerox has long case engines.
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Post by paydem on Nov 13, 2017 8:20:26 GMT -5
Hey. I always thought that Minarelli Horizontal/Vertical AC engines have been short case (R12 wheel) and Minarelli Horizontal LC engines have been long case (R13 wheel) until today I found out that short case engines came with R10 wheels.
I know I'm dumb, but I searched the internet and haven't found any info. Any help?
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