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Post by jareeb on Feb 19, 2015 14:01:27 GMT -5
i think a .050 sheet will work. i think stage6 wants a .6 squish. not sure though everything is in German. lol
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Post by 190mech on Feb 19, 2015 20:52:42 GMT -5
I like the "flat washer method",measure some flat washer thickness,add about .050" worth of washers on each stud,install cylinder and measure squish,that gives you a real idea what an .050 spacer will do..Other than squish,what about port durations?Is the piston flush with the bottom of the transfer ports at BDC(for proper piston cooling)??
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Post by jareeb on Feb 19, 2015 21:47:29 GMT -5
Piston looks to be below the ports 1mm I think. And ill have to get some washers tomorrow and check it. Good idea
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Post by jareeb on Feb 26, 2015 15:11:25 GMT -5
i cant get the cases tq down with out the crank binding, any ideas i try everything i could think of.
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 26, 2015 18:41:08 GMT -5
See if the crank is sitting more to one side of the cases than the other. May need to be pressed or pulled into a more central position if so.
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Post by 190mech on Feb 26, 2015 19:23:21 GMT -5
What method are you using to get the crank installed?If its all together and gets stiff with snugging the case bolts,try rapping the crank ends lightly with a 2X4 wood block..Dont wanna hit it too hard,cranks can get out of true VERY easy..
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Post by jareeb on Feb 26, 2015 22:00:46 GMT -5
I think that's what's going on. Crank isn't centered. Im gona try and heat just the cases and then hammer it center carefully. Used the heat gun/ keyboard cleaner method that i used on the three other engines I've built without issues. Maybe because those where zuma cases? Im not sure.
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Post by jareeb on Mar 2, 2015 14:31:41 GMT -5
got the crank to move over that little bit it needed to. got the stator, flywheel, crank seals, and intake all on. still have to order metal to make the spacer. will get that this week im sure.
what should end gap of the ring be at?
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 2, 2015 16:18:58 GMT -5
~0.008" if that's 47.6mm bore, unless someone else knows a spec from S6 directly. If I'm wrong on the bore size, or just for reference, there's an end gap calculator on the site. Just click on the sidebar button that says calculators and scroll down a bit.
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Post by nelson on Mar 2, 2015 19:17:00 GMT -5
Is that the front of a banshee or a warrior sitting behind your scoot on the first page? Scoot looks good cant wait to see it run!
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Post by jareeb on Mar 2, 2015 20:28:35 GMT -5
banshee its my dad. and ill try the calculator out.
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Post by jareeb on Mar 5, 2015 11:44:00 GMT -5
im at a very big lost with this mini stroker crank. no idea what i should do ive come up with a few options but not sure which is the right one. found washers that were 1.40mm the base gasket is .50mm with the washers under the cylinder no gaskets the piston is super far below the exhaust port (1.5mm-2mm?) is this a problem? the transfer ports tho are flush with the top of the piston. at tdc tho the piston is 2.73mm or so below tdc. head takes up 2.50mm of this leaving .23mm. now i thought about using crankcase sealer and no base gasket, has anyone tried this? with that the piston is only below the exhaust port maybe .50mm which isnt super bad i think. transfer ports are still good like this. at tdc the piston is 1.6mm below tdc. which if i have the top of the cylinder milled off 1.6mm or around 0.066"? i really dont want to risk having to buy a new cylinder, so id rather not touch the cylinder at all. how thick will the gasket be once its squished?
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Post by 190mech on Mar 5, 2015 12:22:41 GMT -5
Transfers should be even with the piston,exhaust is fine where it is.Now you need to adjust the squish,never machine a nikasil bore top as the nikasil is lapped over the top to keep it from flaking off.The head will need to be altered to get proper squish..
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Post by 2strokd on Mar 5, 2015 12:27:18 GMT -5
Yep, the man is right. Not too hard with AC heads either! Heck, just throw a copper .5mm gasket in there and call it a day!
You will need to take into account any gasket seating etc for final numbers.. Off to a good start! Should be a screamer with the right pipe and iggy!
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Post by jareeb on Mar 5, 2015 12:28:40 GMT -5
okay, then ill order some metal to make a 1mm spacer and see how it runs. maybe i can get the printer to work to make a degree wheel.
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