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Post by niz76 on Dec 13, 2014 16:16:54 GMT -5
Lookin good Electrey! It's all the small details that add up to one nice scoot!
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Post by Elektrey on Dec 13, 2014 16:21:47 GMT -5
Quick question, when ordering jets what do I have to match up? I'm assuming thread width and length, but does the end style matter? like flathead circular vs hex, etc.?
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Post by niz76 on Dec 13, 2014 16:47:31 GMT -5
Quick question, when ordering jets what do I have to match up? I'm assuming thread width and length, but does the end style matter? like flathead circular vs hex, etc.? Nope- end style doesn't matter. It's just a chunk of brass with a hole in it so if it threads in it'll work! |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 14, 2014 11:14:22 GMT -5
Good looking upgrades. I've thought about shortening brake levers for years now. Never done it because of reading horror stories of levers stabbing people in crashes without the ball on the end, but I guess I've got more dangerous things on my scoots anway so you may have inspired me to try it. At least thinking about it. Since you have Minarelli clone carb, you can get a jet kit from Parts For Scooters (114-50)or look for Mikuni VM11/22 main jets from JetsRUs, RockyMountainMCATV, eBay, etc... I've also used 6mm DellOrto jets in them. |
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Post by niz76 on Dec 14, 2014 16:11:04 GMT -5
One of the flip Zumas I got has a Dellorto carb and the 6mm Mikuni jets fit perfectly as 90GTVert mentioned!
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Post by Elektrey on Dec 14, 2014 16:47:09 GMT -5
Yes I've seen the kit before but it only has them every 5 sizes. I've been searching VM11/22 and 6mm dellorto jets trying to find a kit with every 2-3 sizes from like 70-100 or so for like $20 but nothing. Going to my local scooter shop monday to see if they sell jets. I just hate going to shops because it seems like everytime I just waste my time and they tell me "we don't have that but we can order it for you".
@90gtvert the left brake lever already had the ball broken off so I just used a hacksaw to do the same to the other and sanded the edges so they were more smooth.
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 14, 2014 16:53:21 GMT -5
I dunno about a kit that includes the "1/2 sizes". Definitely not from 70-100 for $20. I bought a lot of mine individually. It's $13 per set of 70s, 80s, etc... here or $2.88 each. Still, everywhere I look for individual VM11/22 jets they're $3+ each. www.treatland.tv/SearchResults.asp?Search=6mm+dellortoI just hate going to shops because it seems like everytime I just waste my time and they tell me "we don't have that but we can order it for you". Call first? |
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Post by Elektrey on Dec 14, 2014 17:24:19 GMT -5
ah, treatland has them in the odd sizes for $2.88
I'll buy the $15 kit from partsforscooters and order it with my BBK to get free shipping and then when I get the tune down i'll buy the one(s) that are in between the two for a perfect tune.
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Post by Elektrey on Dec 18, 2014 11:56:35 GMT -5
So I was looking up gear kits for an upgrade and I can only find two it looks like. A polini Secondary gear, which has a higher ratio than the current secondary gears, like 2.6 instead of 2.3 and a Malossi primary scooterpartsco.com/malossi/malossi-master-part-list/malossi-primary-gears-14-34-italjet-velocifero-tgb-2t-m677149But the primary has a gear ratio of 2.42 compared to my current of 5.1?! So If I installed these gears my final gear ratio would be halved! I don't know if thats good or not since if I get the stage6 BBK I would most likely be making power from 9k-10k RPMs, and 9k-10k RPMs in that gearing would be like 100mph. |
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Post by Elektrey on Dec 18, 2014 16:02:01 GMT -5
Got the reeds off the case. I must say it is weird, there is only one 'side' to it, not two like I see online. and it uses some sort of metal for reeds? I thought they were all fiberglass or carbon fiber. Anyways, they looked to be in perfect shape.
I think I have a head gasket leak as there is black residue under the head where it touches the cylinder. Doesn't matter because it won't be touched until I get the BBK.
I don't have a torque wrench, is it possible to torque the head nuts by hand, or is it a must to use a torque wrench?
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Post by Jwhood on Dec 18, 2014 16:46:39 GMT -5
i never use a torque on mine,i always re-check them after several rides too make sure there still secure,i have one just dont ever use it!!! also bought some gasket material from local auto store,its felpro and is fuel resistant,also used the permatex as an added seal protectant since the intake is a place prone for leaks!!!!
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 18, 2014 18:41:47 GMT -5
If your current gears are 5.1:1 primary and 2.3:1 secondary now, you're at 11.73:1 final drive ratio. Swapping to the 2.42:1 primaries would be a crazy change, all the way to 5.57:1. Do not do that. I wouldn't wanna get much lower than 10:1 for a 70cc with large wheels. Are you sure you have those numbers right?
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Post by Elektrey on Dec 18, 2014 20:03:28 GMT -5
If your current gears are 5.1:1 primary and 2.3:1 secondary now, you're at 11.73:1 final drive ratio. Swapping to the 2.42:1 primaries would be a crazy change, all the way to 5.57:1. Do not do that. I wouldn't wanna get much lower than 10:1 for a 70cc with large wheels. Are you sure you have those numbers right? Yeah, I thought it was a mistake, maybe listed wrong as primary, but no, everywhere anyone sells them the info is 100% the same as being primary. and Yeah I agree I shouldn't go to that low. |
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Post by Elektrey on Dec 18, 2014 20:06:59 GMT -5
Took the current cylinder out. LOTS of carbon buildup       Some things I noticed: small hole maybe 0.5-1mm in the center of the piston. Is that supposed to be there? Piston ring gaps were 4mm and 5mm, the 5mm wasn't staying fixed and would easily slide around. Piston goes side to side maybe like 3-4mm, crank doesn't have any play though. Is this bad? |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 18, 2014 22:09:51 GMT -5
The hole/dimple in the crown is there from production. I'm assuming you measured ring gaps installed? You have to remove the rings and install them into the cylinder to check end gap with a feeler gauge. You'd need a service manual spec (service limit) to check used rings. Piston ring end gap is the distance between the two ends of a piston ring while in the cylinder's bore. Improper settings can lead to poor sealing or excessive wear. Piston ring end gap should be 0.10-0.12mm per inch of bore according to A. G. Bell's book, Two-Stroke Performance Tuning. Since most scooter big bore kits are measured in mm, we first need to determine the bore size in inches. This is done by dividing the bore diameter by 25.4. 47(mm) / 25.4 = 1.85039" Bore Diameter i usually multiply the median number from Bell's equation (0.11), by the bore diameter. 1.85039 x 0.11 = 0.20354mm End Gap If you wish to use SAE feeler gauges, you can convert the end gap figure in mm by 25.4 to get the end gap in inches. 0.20354 / 25.4 = 0.008" End Gap Begin by placing a piston ring into the cylinder as shown.  Use the piston to make sure the ring is level inside the bore to get an accurate measurement.  Place a feeler gauge in the end gap. If the gap is smaller than the desired gap you calculated, remove the ring from the cylinder and lightly file the ends. Re-install and re-check the end gap until it is correct. If the gap is too large you can either try to use a new ring or if it's very close, don't worry about it.  Repeat that process on the second ring, if your kit has 2 rings. |
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