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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 7, 2011 13:06:41 GMT -5
I really don't know. I'm sure there's some specific angle not to exceed, but I dunno what it is. The lesser the angle, the better the shock should be able to do it's job and the more weight it could support. Go far enough off and the scoot will just rest the frame on the engine and I'm pretty sure that's not a good thing. lol
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Post by Thebatman on Nov 7, 2011 19:29:35 GMT -5
Hey man, Thank you for the reply.. Yeah, I should have "mocked" it up 1st. I went and done that and no way. It's at an impossible angle. So a new(extra)shock mount will be mandatory. I tracked the parts this a.m and they were in C.A. yesterday a.m. :popcorn:
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Post by Thebatman on Nov 29, 2011 18:37:28 GMT -5
Good evening 90gt.. I am back again with an issue on this new build. 1st... I did not know that there was such a difference in the boost port on a 47 vs a 50 kit.(i had port matched the malossi kit, this 50 kit looks like i never touched the boost port according to the cases :banghead: Of course i had FINALLY gotten the cases together(3 trys) before i seeen this.. :banghead: :censored: 2nd... I have some sort of issue. I was wanting to check some timings. Installed the cylinder, The piston won't rotate. It goes half way down and STOPS. Rotate the other way, half way it STOPS.. Is it me or am i missing something?.. The piston doesnt seem to hit the bottom, rotates fine w/o the cylinder.... Maybe the "extra" epoxy on the wall has thrown the cyl out of square to the piston rotation? Do you have any ideas on what i should check next? AANY input would be greatly appreciated....
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 29, 2011 19:08:29 GMT -5
Have you tried the cylinder and piston fit while not on the rest of the motor?
You already know the deal with the boost port I think. You gotta decide if it's worth the effort to pull it all apart or not. You could try to blend them perhaps if you can keep shavings outta the crankcase.
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Post by 190mech on Nov 29, 2011 20:02:30 GMT -5
On big block installs,Ive had the piston skirt hit the case at the bottom of the stroke,most of the time a tiny bit cut off the skirt was all that was needed..A 'Sharpy' marker is a good tool to use here,mark the bottom of the skirt all around,then try a dry fit,turn till it hits,then see where the marker has rubbed off.. Seen dudes use duct tape or modeling clay to protect the crank while grinding the cases for port matching,but I dont think its a good idea ,, :stumped:
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Post by Thebatman on Nov 30, 2011 7:11:59 GMT -5
Good morning... So i guess the "point with the boost" is...... why do it if not doing it all the way/correctly? That there is a "hear breaker" I just dont see how ppl do this in a few HRS when it takes me a few MONTHS......AGAIN... I actually don't even think that the piston goes down far enough to hit the bottom of the cases. None of the ports are opening at the time the piston will stop... guess it's picture time... The piston does slide inside the cylinder off the motor. There seems to be a point of very slight resistance at the bottom edge of the CYL skirt.(that should be past bdc tho)
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Post by Thebatman on Nov 30, 2011 7:24:16 GMT -5
Here is a pic of the difference between a malossi 47 kit and this ruima 50 kit at the boost port.. HEre is the piston at tdc and the spot it stops... I will assume that that much difference should/would be mandatory to port out....... ??
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 30, 2011 8:46:22 GMT -5
I'd definitely work on that boost port after seeing the pic.
Maybe you could mark where the top of the piston is when it stops then put the piston in the cylinder with it off the engine so you can clearly see where the bottom of the piston is and look that over for any potential issues to start.
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Post by Thebatman on Nov 30, 2011 19:13:58 GMT -5
Well, i think i have found the stopping issue. It eems that a small corner of the cylinder skirt is the culprit. I have been doing a LITTLE "shaving" around the skirt and at least i have rotation. Seems to be rotating well now. May make one more pass on the skirt. BUT i guess that still don't excuse the boost port difference. Here is a better pic.(2)
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Post by reveeen on Nov 30, 2011 19:33:15 GMT -5
If you are going to split your cases the area under the intake/reed valve can use some "clean-up". At the very least a knife edge on the port divider, and the DIO boys seem to hog this area out fairly large, you pays your money and you takes your chances (I guess). There are several U-Tube videos that cover this............
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Post by Thebatman on Nov 30, 2011 20:42:08 GMT -5
Hey reveen, I had actually done the intact tract last build. Here is that pic. I had tried what 190 had mentioned with the piston. I now have rotation. I'm not sure what was going on but it seems a small corner of the skirts was causing this. I "sanded" it down ever so lightly and she rotates. Here is the piston Seemed to be rubbing and i guess with the angle, it just stopped... :stumped: DAM boost port.. Why did i not know there would be a size difference. :banghead: :doh: :beatup: :rant: IMAGINE THAT THO RIGHT.... :idea:
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Post by Thebatman on Dec 2, 2011 22:32:07 GMT -5
Good evening... I need to try and get some input on some numbers i'm getting. I have a great 128* trans. 180* ex. !20* boost So it's safe for the same numbers going a little bigger above a 70, which should be.....185-188* ex. 126-130* trans. 124-130* boost?.(if memory serves me, these #'s are good to like 100-110cc) What will a 120* boost cause me? I believe i can port the roof of the ex. to get the 185-188*.... Also, is it negitive deck hieght or positive when the piston sticks ABOVE the barrel?? How can you fix that when the trans. #'s are so good??? Maybe the dome of the head will cover that space? I'm reading like 1.5mm ABOVE the barrel.... :dunno: Thanks for any input on this... (getting some numbers, so i can port for a day or 2.. :stars: )
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Post by 190mech on Dec 3, 2011 5:52:54 GMT -5
Try another base gasket and see what the numbers are.A lot of boost ports open later than the primaries to keep the mixture in the cylinder instead of straight out the exhaust port.. Ive set up a few with positive deck height,thats common with stroked cranks..The combustion chamber may need to be recut to clear the piston and get the proper squish.A few extra head gaskets can sometimes be used to correct a slight positive deck height..
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Post by 2strokd on Dec 3, 2011 6:46:34 GMT -5
Piston skirt was hitting the rod at a certain point? Sorry, get me caught up here.
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Post by Thebatman on Dec 3, 2011 14:03:41 GMT -5
Piston skirt was hitting the rod at a certain point? Sorry, get me caught up here. Yeah, i'm not totally sure but the piston skirt mixed with the cylinder skirt on a corner was enough to stop it. I lightly sanded the skirt and now it rotates just fine.(pic of piston w/blue sharpie marks) Of course that's when i seen the big difference in the boost ports between 2 kits.(pics posted) Last night i was trying to get some numbers, since it's gotta come apart again anyway for case porting. I did match up the cylinder boost port more with the cyl. skirt, to be more matched with the case port.(you could see the "square" shape worse, more flowing now i guess). Now i guess i will try the extra base gasket to raise the boost a tad, but i do wonder how bad it'll throw off the other ports..
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