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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 28, 2009 14:17:06 GMT -5
You've mentioned the wiring like a major issue a couple of times, so I gotta ask what is it that makes it so hard to do the wiring on this swap? I know the ruck has an ECU, but does it control anything other than the engine? If not, why can't you wire up a stock 2 stroke harness and lengthen where needed to reach the battery, controls, whatever? That's what I had to do when I stripped my Triton to the frame and relocated components. It's really not that bad as long as what you start with isn't junk and you know how to solder.
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Post by Enviromoto on Sept 28, 2009 17:41:52 GMT -5
To do it right I will have to shorten, lengthen some wires to make it one clean harness. Not only that but Im a bit worried about the charging system and how it should be hooked up. Wiring is not my strong suit but I manage. I just feel like Im rushing this project. I still need to center up the engine, build it, and all the other stuff that goes with it in 2 days. Thats why Im putting it on hold. I just dont have enough time in the day. Especially after this cold has knocked me on my ass for 3 days. No sweat thought I have 3 other scooters to chose from.  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 28, 2009 20:13:13 GMT -5
Should be pretty straight forward with the charging system... use the stock 2 stroke stator, 2 stroke rectifer, and keep the wiring the way it is in the 2 stroke the same just cut/add whatever length you need. That should be all there is to it.
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Post by Enviromoto on Sept 28, 2009 22:54:55 GMT -5
Ok well the lights are run off of the stator and thats whats throwing me a little. I know its just a matter of figuring out how much wattage is coming from the 2 stroke regulator but this scooter has had some electrical gremlins upon itself. I dont know its just feeling like a winter project. Besides I would really like to get the drag scooter done before it gets much cooler.
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 28, 2009 23:02:14 GMT -5
I understand, not saying you should rush. Just seeing what was up with it.
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Post by Enviromoto on Oct 2, 2009 11:06:23 GMT -5
Brent what is the inside diameter of your 12mm 2 stroke crank? The part where the roller bearing and wrist pin sits.
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 2, 2009 13:27:43 GMT -5
Roughly 15mm.
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Post by Enviromoto on Oct 2, 2009 15:18:30 GMT -5
Not 17mm?
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 2, 2009 16:28:09 GMT -5
On second look, maybe 15.5-16mm. Sorry, my mic has a dead battery. I've got a 10 and 12mm wrist pin lying around. I'll go measure them.
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 2, 2009 16:38:32 GMT -5
O.D. of the 12mm is about 16mm. O.D. of the 10mm is maybe 13.5mm. I checked and my stroker crank that is supposed to be for 12mm wrist pin won't fit a 12mm wrist pin. A 10mm wirst pin is very loose. Nice.
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Post by Enviromoto on Oct 2, 2009 19:58:43 GMT -5
The OD of these 12/10mm reduction bearings is 17mm
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 2, 2009 20:38:03 GMT -5
I checked a service manual, but apparently it's fot 10mm pins. It says the small end service limit is 14.40mm. Looking around a little online I saw mention of the conrod being 17mm ID.
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Post by Enviromoto on Oct 2, 2009 20:54:10 GMT -5
Ok good these should work then. I was a little worried.
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Post by 2strokd on Oct 5, 2009 5:12:33 GMT -5
Im sure you know already, but keep in mind the bearing might feel loose until the pin is in it.
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Post by Reign on Oct 11, 2009 12:14:09 GMT -5
So i just tried installing one of these 12/10 bearings with the 17mm OD, and they dont fit. I used my analog mic and the crank is 16mm, not 17mm. What sucks is that how I have the engine torn down, and can't rebuild it without either a new bearing, or a new piston and wrist pin.
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