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Post by thatcrazyguy on Jul 8, 2015 13:34:31 GMT -5
Break in procedure?
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 8, 2015 15:15:47 GMT -5
From something I was working on : First off, you will probably never get everyone to agree on a break-in procedure. It can be a topic of great debate. That said, here are some of my opinions regarding engine break-in : - If the scooter is stock, hopefully you've already done a PDI including unsealing the carburetor if necessary. Whether your engine is stock or modified, have the carburetor ready with jetting somewhere in a range that you believe will be appropriate. It's hard to know without tuning, but hopefully you'll end up with something close enough to work for a few miles.
- Have tools handy to adjust the idle mixture and speed before the engine is started. If accessing the screws requires removing body panels, have a plan that allows you to ride right after adjusting. I often leave off any non-essential panels such as side fairings and just make sure the seat bucket and all wires, cables, etc... are secure.
- Start the scooter and let it warm up for maybe 5 minutes. As it warms up, adjust the idle speed and mixture screws so that you get a smooth idle and the engine isn't trying to cut out. It doesn't need to be perfect at this point. When it's good enough, secure whatever you need to in order to ride.
- Take the scooter out on the road, track, large parking lot, or wherever it's safe to ride it with minimal traffic. You'll be riding in a strange manner, so it's not a good idea to have any traffic behind you.
- Begin by giving it about 1/2 throttle for a few seconds, then letting it decelerate on it's own. Repeat this a few times.
- Do the same thing, but now at 3/4 throttle a few times.
- Use wide open throttle (WOT) for a few seconds now, again letting off and letting the scooter decelerate on it's own. Repeat a few times.
- With a new engine or cylinder kit and no real carb tuning done I'd head back at this point, or I would have turned around about halfway through the process to head toward home. If you are riding after this, vary throttle position so you don't hold one speed or RPM for very long.
From there I would work on getting the tune dialed in with WOT passes and different jets. Give it at least 20 miles of varied throttle riding before riding it however you usually would. For four-strokes, I change the old oil after the installation of a cylinder kit so you drain out any debris that may have made it's way into the crankcase. If the scooter is new, the oil should be changed as part of the PDI process. Then I'd change the oil after about 20 miles. Again around 100-200 miles. Again by 500 miles. Then I stay with my usual 500 mile oil change intervals. Stick with conventional non-synthetic for the first 500 miles, or more if you'd like. At very least use it for the first oil change. Some don't change oil as often, some use synthetic from the start... again everyone has their own preferences. Magnetic drain plugs are good for break-in (and full time use). They can really show you how much metal is worked off and you can also see how it tapers off on subsequent oil changes. Some prefer to use richer pre-mix ratios for breaking in two-stroke engines, or they may add a cap full or 2T oil to their tank for oil injected models. I use the same pre-mix ratios that I normally use. For two-strokes I also use the same synthetic oil for break-in that I use any other time. You may wish to check the head bolt torque after your first rides and tuning as well. Sometimes it doesn't change, but sometimes the gaskets will compress after the engine has been ran for a bit. For four-strokes, check the valve clearances while you've got the valve cover off.
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Post by thatcrazyguy on Jul 8, 2015 15:55:34 GMT -5
From something I was working on : First off, you will probably never get everyone to agree on a break-in procedure. It can be a topic of great debate. That said, here are some of my opinions regarding engine break-in : - If the scooter is stock, hopefully you've already done a PDI including unsealing the carburetor if necessary. Whether your engine is stock or modified, have the carburetor ready with jetting somewhere in a range that you believe will be appropriate. It's hard to know without tuning, but hopefully you'll end up with something close enough to work for a few miles.
- Have tools handy to adjust the idle mixture and speed before the engine is started. If accessing the screws requires removing body panels, have a plan that allows you to ride right after adjusting. I often leave off any non-essential panels such as side fairings and just make sure the seat bucket and all wires, cables, etc... are secure.
- Start the scooter and let it warm up for maybe 5 minutes. As it warms up, adjust the idle speed and mixture screws so that you get a smooth idle and the engine isn't trying to cut out. It doesn't need to be perfect at this point. When it's good enough, secure whatever you need to in order to ride.
- Take the scooter out on the road, track, large parking lot, or wherever it's safe to ride it with minimal traffic. You'll be riding in a strange manner, so it's not a good idea to have any traffic behind you.
- Begin by giving it about 1/2 throttle for a few seconds, then letting it decelerate on it's own. Repeat this a few times.
- Do the same thing, but now at 3/4 throttle a few times.
- Use wide open throttle (WOT) for a few seconds now, again letting off and letting the scooter decelerate on it's own. Repeat a few times.
- With a new engine or cylinder kit and no real carb tuning done I'd head back at this point, or I would have turned around about halfway through the process to head toward home. If you are riding after this, vary throttle position so you don't hold one speed or RPM for very long.
From there I would work on getting the tune dialed in with WOT passes and different jets. Give it at least 20 miles of varied throttle riding before riding it however you usually would. For four-strokes, I change the old oil after the installation of a cylinder kit so you drain out any debris that may have made it's way into the crankcase. If the scooter is new, the oil should be changed as part of the PDI process. Then I'd change the oil after about 20 miles. Again around 100-200 miles. Again by 500 miles. Then I stay with my usual 500 mile oil change intervals. Stick with conventional non-synthetic for the first 500 miles, or more if you'd like. At very least use it for the first oil change. Some don't change oil as often, some use synthetic from the start... again everyone has their own preferences. Magnetic drain plugs are good for break-in (and full time use). They can really show you how much metal is worked off and you can also see how it tapers off on subsequent oil changes. Some prefer to use richer pre-mix ratios for breaking in two-stroke engines, or they may add a cap full or 2T oil to their tank for oil injected models. I use the same pre-mix ratios that I normally use. For two-strokes I also use the same synthetic oil for break-in that I use any other time. You may wish to check the head bolt torque after your first rides and tuning as well. Sometimes it doesn't change, but sometimes the gaskets will compress after the engine has been ran for a bit. For four-strokes, check the valve clearances while you've got the valve cover off. Excellent thanks Brent!!! Am gonna get one of those suction cup phone mounts from my dad to borrow this weekend and take a video if it'll hold phone securely!!! Can't wait to ride hopefully cyclesprings doesn't fuck my order up and send wrong bushings hahaha
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Post by thatcrazyguy on Jul 8, 2015 20:29:39 GMT -5
Worked on my transportation some today, lubed up the longboards bearings hahaha those need replaced too I can hear dirt rattling around inside the bearing oh well haha it runs faster than my scoot for now!
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Post by thatcrazyguy on Jul 10, 2015 17:42:08 GMT -5
Mount bushings did not arrive today so sad day for me
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Post by Sitticuss on Jul 10, 2015 18:32:20 GMT -5
Mount bushings did not arrive today so sad day for me I know right...Third time I've ordered parts from Texas...still waitng...Texas is sooooo slow
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Post by thatcrazyguy on Jul 10, 2015 18:46:43 GMT -5
Mount bushings did not arrive today so sad day for me I know right...Third time I've ordered parts from Texas...still waitng...Texas is sooooo slow I ordered through a local power sports store but they didn't have In stock so they had to order them and me pick up from store. Too cheap to pay for shipping hahaha. Maybe tmro if not Monday I can get!
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Post by thatcrazyguy on Jul 13, 2015 7:28:31 GMT -5
Everybody, please pray that I get a phone call regarding my part arriving and ready for pickup please!!!! Then it's go time for me and continuing on with the 103cc swap
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Post by thatcrazyguy on Jul 13, 2015 12:37:27 GMT -5
Well freight shipment arrived at the store about 2hrs ago, so if my bushings are there I should be getting a call anytime now On a side note, tore my bearings out of the longboard wheels, soaked in tranny fluid for a good while, and threw them back in the wheels. Rides a bit better but I need to pick up new bearings for them
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Post by thatcrazyguy on Jul 13, 2015 17:53:40 GMT -5
Got my bushings today, slapped oil on them and banged them in with a hammer. Where the rod goes through the bushing, that is longer so my subframe doesn't fit I between the bushings. Stopped at local hardware for a longer rod and am on my way to harbor freight to buy a 20$ cutoff wheel and grinding wheel for it!! I'll get it ready to be thrown on one way or another!!! Can't wait any longer hahaha
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Post by thatcrazyguy on Jul 13, 2015 20:28:01 GMT -5
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Post by 190mech on Jul 13, 2015 20:41:28 GMT -5
Glad you got that funky mount jammed in there!Hope you used a proper bolt and not a all thread rod to attach it..
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Post by Availien on Jul 13, 2015 21:22:13 GMT -5
well, grinded about all I could off the bushings, and had to take another 2-3mm off the subframe mount to get it to fit. But it's snug and install!!! I got as far as throwing the engine on the scoot, and realized what I knew would happen but let it go til I saw it for myself. Need a extension piece for my shock!!! Time to find one local In the states and have it overnighted. Tomorrow I'll hook up all wires, brake cable, and carb then pick up a spark plug probably wednesday!!! Why do you need a shock extender? It wont mount at all or is it just low?
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Post by thatcrazyguy on Jul 13, 2015 21:33:41 GMT -5
well, grinded about all I could off the bushings, and had to take another 2-3mm off the subframe mount to get it to fit. But it's snug and install!!! I got as far as throwing the engine on the scoot, and realized what I knew would happen but let it go til I saw it for myself. Need a extension piece for my shock!!! Time to find one local In the states and have it overnighted. Tomorrow I'll hook up all wires, brake cable, and carb then pick up a spark plug probably wednesday!!! Why do you need a shock extender? It wont mount at all or is it just low? Won't mount at all!! 20$ for one and 26$ for overnight shipping. Oh well need back on 2 wheels.
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Post by Availien on Jul 13, 2015 21:41:43 GMT -5
Well that sucks. Good to see you got it together though. Can't wait to see some pictures/video!
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