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Post by Thebatman on Jan 27, 2011 19:20:00 GMT -5
Thank you... I totally agree...
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Post by Thebatman on Jan 30, 2011 12:40:14 GMT -5
Hey guys, i was looking around about this but... I am jetting this oem carb(think its a 20mm).. only the main,... so i can have a open air filter... I jetted, still lean, jetted bigger(am doing like the oem zx carb)... the plug looked "sooty" and BLACK. It was "missing"/"backfiring" at WOT.. feels good everywhere else... The jet should be a 97? ISH..(drill/file my own jets). (a guy i know is at a 99, but of course lower level,3hrs away.).. The backfiring, black, sooty plug should be to big, correct? Of course these 4t's are different than the zx i have been learning on.. :rofl: . gotta go get more plugs for some chops but the missing/backfiring is annoying...  Just close back up.. oh the oem jet was #80... Thanks for any input on this..... |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 31, 2011 8:47:16 GMT -5
Move down to a 90 or so, try again. Sounds way rich at WOT.
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Post by Thebatman on Jan 31, 2011 9:29:50 GMT -5
Thanks brent.. I did go back to a 87.. It stopped the backfiring but has a dead spot about mid throttle but she runs good otherwise...(put in sum 5.1g's).. think i need to swap out the fly springs to 1000
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 31, 2011 10:53:18 GMT -5
Adjust your needle position.
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Post by WT100 on Feb 1, 2011 10:10:43 GMT -5
Looking good! Glad the grips worked out for you!
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Post by Thebatman on Feb 14, 2011 15:33:26 GMT -5
Hey guys... Well, i have been trying to jet this oem carb here... Still have a dead spot in the throttle..... the needle is non adjustable..... Today when she was cold, hadnt started her in several days... Fired right up.. When warm i guess, she want to crank, then start AFTER you give some throttle(very few times, do you not give it...(fire right up with some throttle)
Valves adjusted.
mix screw at 2-1/4
idle hadnt been touched....
I know good and well i dont always have to give throttle for starting, so any ideas on why half the time?
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Post by Thebatman on Feb 14, 2011 15:53:35 GMT -5
I guess maybe i should throw in that i'll start it to go to the store(1.2mi.? away).. I'll let it idle for about 3-4 min. before i leave and get to one store 1/2 mi., shut off, go in, come out and hard to start... could it be not having "downtime" before i go in the store?.. to short a ride?.. will start right up everytime with throttle, turns over with non
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Post by Thebatman on Feb 14, 2011 15:55:23 GMT -5
Oh yeah, Anyone have a trailtech tto tach on a 4t?... If so, whats your settings?... Thank you
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 14, 2011 18:43:52 GMT -5
Maybe it's just a little on the rich side at idle. Maybe in the time you are in the store, the enricher cools down enough to let fuel pass by it again, but the engine is still relatively warm. If that's the case, the warm engine needs less fuel, so it's gonna be rich till the enricher heats back up and shuts off the additional fuel.
The TTO tach should be setup like a 2T for most 4Ts I believe. That would be 1 spark per revolution. Even though the 4T onle needs 1 spark every other revolution, a lot of them use a wasted spark system that fires on every revolution. Just try it out before you mount it and then adjust as necessary. I have both of mine set to high sensitivity and fast response. Working great, although these are on 2Ts.
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Post by rocketdog on Feb 14, 2011 23:06:44 GMT -5
Hey guys... Well, i have been trying to jet this oem carb here... Still have a dead spot in the throttle..... the needle is non adjustable..... Today when she was cold, hadnt started her in several days... Fired right up.. When warm i guess, she want to crank, then start AFTER you give some throttle(very few times, do you not give it...(fire right up with some throttle) Valves adjusted. mix screw at 2-1/4 idle hadnt been touched.... I know good and well i dont always have to give throttle for starting, so any ideas on why half the time? If 2 and a 1/4 is giving you the best idle, then you might want to go up a size on the pilot. It ought to be between one and 2. You can go to Radio Shack and get small flat washers to shim the needle up for the mid range. RD |
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Post by Thebatman on Mar 21, 2011 7:48:09 GMT -5
Hey guys.. I had installed one of those "xenon brite white" headlight bulbs.. A nice difference. Worked great for a cpl days. I had went riding and went a different way down this looonnnnggg hill. It's probably a 1-1/2 miles long. my rpms were crazy high. I noticed the scoot acted different after this hill. I noticed the same thing on the zx once. anyway, my new headlight wasnt working. Took it out and it was burnt, not burnt out but burnt. It started melting the socket.. Could this have been caused by the crazy high rpms?... or just a cheap, bad bulb?.I installed the oem back, works fine but i havent went down that hill either.. |
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Post by Goosey on Mar 21, 2011 8:04:59 GMT -5
Is it just that bulb? Have you checked the tail light bulb? An over charge from the stator can kill the headlight and taillight, shouldn't do anything to the brakelight or blinkers. It's possible that bulb just couldn't take it, but I'd be watching for regulator issues now. Not real genious on how it all works but maybe the hill and high RPM's boosted the charge a bit high and could have damaged the regulator. If it's just that bulb I'd let it go for now.
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Post by Thebatman on Mar 21, 2011 12:20:30 GMT -5
Hey goosey, thanks for the reply.. Yeah, my tali/brake lights were still working, just the bulb went... I sure hope it's only the bulb... That is a fun hill but dang, maybe i should COAST down it anymore... ;D
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Post by erictheviking666 on Mar 21, 2011 19:00:01 GMT -5
It's probably just the bulb. I put one of those xenon blue halogen bulbs in mine and I could IMMEDIATELY tell it was too hot! It only lasted about 3 minutes before it started melting wires and the bulb housing, and that was only at idle. LOL!
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