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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 7, 2011 7:15:17 GMT -5
I like the paint work on the S9. Very nice. Cool group shot. I really like the styling of the Ape.
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Post by Thebatman on Jun 7, 2011 7:32:32 GMT -5
Thanks man.....
Yeah, i love the styling to, especially the way the rear light is so sleek. I originally got that one for a few bits to swap out on the ZX (brake lines/wheels/forks),and swap the rest for kymco stuff...lol but the dam thing actually runs now, so now i'm like i dont want to tear it apart now, found a dash for it(they wont run w/o it on this model,piggy ditech)
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Post by 2strokd on Jun 7, 2011 9:16:24 GMT -5
Nice rides man! Ide keep that DiTech if its a got that engine.
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Post by Thebatman on Jun 8, 2011 6:58:05 GMT -5
Thanks 2strokd, Yeah she has the piggy motor but my goodness, those engine hi-po parts are some higher than the kymco...lol. according to the "game boy" it only has 38hrs on it.(well 39, i have actaully ridden it, they are nice). Just think of the kymco parts i could get if i did...lol
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Post by Thebatman on Aug 14, 2011 17:55:10 GMT -5
Well guys, i am looking for some guidance on this frkn arreche carb... i think.. ;D I have several questions i hope to get some input on.... 1) wot is still flat, means STILL to big on the mj,correct?(think i may need even bigger on the pj again) 2)I had a high idle all day, couldn't get right, that indicates a leak,correct? 3)On take off, when she "hits" the pipe, the rpm shoot up like normal but then it LOSES/DROPS rpm(about 2000 worth) and creeps along till it "gets in the pipe" again... Would that be in the carb or is that the contra spring getting weak? 4) It seems that if i am under 7500 rpm, she just creeps, but when 7500+ get there, she takes off and rpm shoot to 9000+. Is it safe to assume that alot of that is the carb?.... It wasnt AS BAD as it is now.... I guess some of it IS the pipes powerband but its worse now under 7500 than before It seems arreche only makes 2 needles for this thing and of course i was sent the one that's IN the carb... Thanks for ANY input on this, having issues on this tuning.  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 14, 2011 18:41:45 GMT -5
1)Could be. If plugs show dark or wet, for sure.
2)Leak/lean.
3)That sounds like a CVT issue. I'd check out the torque driver to be sure it's functioning properly first. Sounds like maybe it shifts into high gear and doesn't keep RPM up.
4)That can be multiple things and they can all add up to make it even more apparent. If the pipe/porting likes revs, that can do it. If you are running rich it can worsen the dead feeling below peak. If the CVT is not working well with the powerband and you go WOT it can make it richen up and really run dead below the powerband. The root though is generally at the pipe/porting. A setup with a really wide powerband is much easier to deal with.
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Post by Thebatman on Aug 16, 2011 9:09:22 GMT -5
Well, i think i made a little progress..lol. I swapped out the t.d and clutch and main down to a 1500. the malossi 2000 was very weak... I was trying some 6.5 rollers, went back to 7g. The "lag" isn't as bad, still there slightly. I wonder if it wants some 7.5g rollers?  I did get a better seal on the intake/carb..... i THINK ANYWAY. Yesterday evening, she seemed to run better for sure, I am rich on wot. I have my fuel mix screw @ 2 out now, thinking 2-1/2 would be better. Which that means i need a bigger pj,correct? I need to order the only other pj they make, a 35pj.. I really dont understand why i would need such a bigger pj, i should need a SMALLER @ 2225ft. I still cant find the 80mj i had(have a 90 in atm)... Thanks brent for the replys |
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Post by 190mech on Aug 16, 2011 9:16:08 GMT -5
Thats an air screw,the more you back it out,the leaner it gets..If it needs more that 2 1/2 out,Id say it needs a smaller PJ.. :stumped: I
never worked on that style carb though....
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Post by Thebatman on Aug 16, 2011 9:37:29 GMT -5
Hey 190, thanks for the reply....
I had a 20pj in and it became hard to start,25 same way, the 30 helps it start easier. I was having to man.choke the piss out of it to crank, on full choke everytime i started it...
Also i THOUGHT anyway, that if the mix screw was on the filter side, it was an air screw.
And that if the screw was on the intake side that it was a fuel screw... With 2-1/2 out my idle returns to normal vs it being 1-1/2-2 out then my idle would stay high for 10 minutes at least before returning to normal.
Thanks for any input..
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Post by 190mech on Aug 16, 2011 11:22:12 GMT -5
YEP,you are right about the screw location!You could open that pilot a bit instead of order another one...
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lbo
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 141
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Post by lbo on Aug 17, 2011 6:22:14 GMT -5
Nice project!
I am going with 90GTVert concerning the drop in RPM's and check the CVT. I seem to flat spot rollers a lot with my S9 which can be aggrevating when trying to tune. I throw in some new rollers and the RPM's become more consitant all the way to top end. Not sure why I seem to chew through rollers so fast, I have a 1500 torque spring and heavier clutch springs but outside of that not sure the reason why my rollers never liked to roll. I plan to get Dr. Pulley sliders when my BBK arrives.
Again nice project and great scooter.
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Post by Thebatman on Aug 17, 2011 6:32:13 GMT -5
Thank you for the compliments!!!!! :thumb:
IS your var wore out? Maybe thats why your rollers go bad quicker???
Do you "graghite" your rollers?... it helps
I went and swapped things out in the cvt, it was better, the rpms didn't drop nowhere as bad. Did put 7g back in, Tempted to try 7.5. The 6.5, the rpms went to shit but the contra was shot also, had to install the 1500 i happened to have and the motorio clutch
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Post by Thebatman on Aug 17, 2011 6:47:46 GMT -5
Nice project! I am going with 90GTVert concerning the drop in RPM's and check the CVT. I seem to flat spot rollers a lot with my S9 which can be aggrevating when trying to tune. I throw in some new rollers and the RPM's become more consitant all the way to top end. Not sure why I seem to chew through rollers so fast, I have a 1500 torque spring and heavier clutch springs but outside of that not sure the reason why my rollers never liked to roll. I plan to get Dr. Pulley sliders when my BBK arrives. Again nice project and great scooter. My dumb ass forgot to even mention if your buying "cheap" rollers. THAT"S the problem.. I have bought some and with 1 ride, they'd have a spot.. On rollers, malossi are the best. I have a set of 7.5's that still look new and i've used them for almost 2yrs |
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lbo
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 141
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Post by lbo on Aug 17, 2011 11:04:21 GMT -5
My dumb ass forgot to even mention if your buying "cheap" rollers. THAT"S the problem.. I have bought some and with 1 ride, they'd have a spot.. On rollers, malossi are the best. I have a set of 7.5's that still look new and i've used them for almost 2yrs The last 2 sets I got were both Jasil and suppossed to be good. This is what they looked like after about 1000KM;  I just ordered a new Hoca variator and some Dr. Pully sliders to help cure this issue. Not trying to thread jack, just suggesting I have had issues with rollers that made me think it was engine related. |
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bigjeff
Scoot Enthusiast
just scootin
Posts: 294
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Post by bigjeff on Aug 17, 2011 11:37:09 GMT -5
I pulled a variator off a 2005 Vento triton that had 4800 miles on it. The rollers were in great shape but i had to replace the entire CVT because of neglect and corrosion. (The scoot sat outside under a tarp unused for 3 years in the florida humibity - rust everywhere in the CVT)
My point is - maybe it is not the rollers at fault, maybe it is how it is ridden. Something that is beat on will not last as long. So many scoots log mile after mile with stock components and do not have any of the problems caused by certain mods and abusive riding styles. Just my 2 cents.
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