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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 17, 2011 12:00:52 GMT -5
The stock rollers in my 2Ts and my GY6 were about as tough as they came.
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bigjeff
Scoot Enthusiast
just scootin
Posts: 294
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Post by bigjeff on Aug 17, 2011 20:21:03 GMT -5
The stock rollers in my 2Ts and my GY6 were about as tough as they came. then came bert.....and then what happened? :lol: :lmao:
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Post by 2strokd on Aug 17, 2011 20:56:31 GMT -5
The stock rollers in my 2Ts and my GY6 were about as tough as they came. I agree. Some of the OEM weights are made of a tuff sort of ceramic type material that lasts forever. Only downfall ive seen is that they are more abrasive and can make the vari wear faster in some cases.
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Post by Thebatman on Aug 20, 2011 10:07:22 GMT -5
I sure could use some help with this arreche carb i have..... Do i have a bum carb?.. Everyday this fkr runs different.. I have a high idle constantly.. JUST sprayed a 16oz can of cleaner EVERYWHERE, Indicating NO air leaks.. With the mix screw all the way in, it's lean, out richens it,correct.. Yesterday i had to have it at 2-2-1/2 out, this a.m it's 1-1/2 out. I have the only other needle made on the way(which it's fatter on the bottom, smaller in the mid, fatter on top), the only other pj on the way(a 35). I have to pull the manual choke out and choke the hell out of it, about to the point of killing the battery to get it to start... I have the only intake made witha brand new oko carb to install but why bother there if i cant understand what's going on now..... Thanks for any input
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 20, 2011 10:55:51 GMT -5
I'm sure you already have, but make sure nothing else is keeping your idle high like a cable adjustment or something. I believe out does richen the mix screw on the Arreche. Is the choke adjusted so it opens and closes fully?
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Post by Thebatman on Aug 20, 2011 12:30:39 GMT -5
Ha, i di get the throttle tight when turning to the right.(kinda nerve racking there going around a right hand curve... . Got that part...lol.. It didnt run like this before, so i figure it's my magic touch.... She runs good but idle. It was wierd last night. It wanted to die hard several times.
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Post by Thebatman on Aug 26, 2011 17:50:35 GMT -5
Ok guys, i'm going crazy here.. Now my s9 wont crank with the starter at all these last few days but the dam thing will start with the kickstart. still takes a cpl kicks but still....WTH? Any input for a dumbass? Still choking the shit out of it to even crank.. Hadnt gotten my 35pj in YET or the other needle
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Post by Thebatman on Aug 26, 2011 20:06:20 GMT -5
wELL, IT LEFT ME STRANDED 2 TIMES... wHAT WOULD CAUSE ONE TO NOT START FOR A LONG TIME AND 900 KICKS? I HAVE A CHEAP TESTER, WOULD THE COMPRESSION BE THE CAUSE?. MY TESTER WOULD READ WRONG ANYWAY. i DONT HAVE THE FUNDS TO BUY A 300 ONE LIKE ALOT OF PPL HAVE
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 26, 2011 21:42:33 GMT -5
Could be compression, but it should run weak if so. Could be a tuning issue with the carb. I had a hell of a time starting T1 recently. I swapped back to an airbox from an open filter and it's so much easier to deal with now. You should be able to get it in tune with an open filter fine too, they just seem less finicky to me with an airbox. I'd guess you need to try swapping pilot jets and making mixture screw adjustments till you find something that works. I feel for ya dude. Having my scoot be a pain to start but run great when it was going was incredibly frustrating to me as well. With the airbox working, I never looked back. That's a heck of a lot easier than playing with jets and settings. lol
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Post by 190mech on Aug 27, 2011 5:57:50 GMT -5
What does your plug look like?wet or dry?How does the spark look? Spark plug good? Poor mans compression test;finger over the plug hole and spin it over,should feel strong pressure.. Is the carb getting fuel? Do you have another carb around to try?Even a stock one... I agree with Brent,STOCK AIRBOX!
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Post by 2strokd on Aug 27, 2011 7:10:08 GMT -5
If it is getting fuel i bet its flooded to beat hell by now. In my experiences with these engines, if they are grumpy and hard to start but still getting fuel, they will flood quick. A friend flooded his so bad i had take the exhaust off and pour the fuel out. Then the plug and airfilter. Crank it over with no fuel supply and just let it sit for awhile. His was getting hard to start from lack of compression. So yes, you might be on the right path with low comp?.
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Post by Thebatman on Aug 27, 2011 8:28:48 GMT -5
Good morning guys, Thanks for the replys on this.. Here is a pic of one of the testers i have, this is the "sears" brand, the other is a harbor frieght.(it reads even lower than this one). Has anybody ever used this brand tester?.. I wish i had a snap on or something of great quality...... Ok, i went out this a.m and looked at the plug. It was very "rusty" looking, very dry. I swapped out the plug and removed the open filter completely. Wouldn't you know it started a hell of a lot easier this a.m.. BUT of course it wasnt rode this a.m to build up the heat this thing puts out. The starting seems to be alot worse when she's good and hot!!! I installed the tester in the pic. OF course i never actually tested the comp when i 1st got her together because of the crappy testers i have. This a.m with the engine warm from running and the throttle WO, I get 100psi.(this tester reads about 15psi higher than the other) :stumped: So i may have screwed my rings already? ? :no: OF COURSE i should add that the kit was used when i installed it anyway. How can the performance, i think anyway, still be there with 100-120 comp.(figure with a GOOD tester, it may read 120). I'm killing parts cause i cant get the dialing in part... I am also having a touch of "rattle" on de accel like brent was around 1/4 throttle on de accel. Only when ran wot down to idle.(this has been going on also, nothing new here). If i stay at 1/4-1/2 it don't "rattle". The needle i am waiting on is thinner in the middle but fatter on both ends. Maybe the thinner section would cure that part? :dunno: My last few orders have been VERY slow from anywhere i order..(been waiting 3 weeks on 2 BOLTS).. Looking like i may need to ride that dam aprilia again..
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Post by 190mech on Aug 27, 2011 16:57:47 GMT -5
100 is enough to run well.A quick top end inspection can be done by pulling the pipe and looking at the piston and cylinder thru the Ex port,, Dry/rusty seems kinda lean,a bad air leak(crank seals,cyl base gasket,reed mount,carb mount)will make it tough to start..
How bout the reeds?You dont have a red plastic straw stuck in there do you?(Just kidding Brent!! :rofl: )
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Post by Thebatman on Aug 27, 2011 17:31:58 GMT -5
:rofl: , Na The cans i been using don't have the straw anymore. ... I used a full can looking for leaks and couldn't find any anywhere. Of course i didn't take the cvt apart and check seal. I know the top is rich, you can feel the loss at wot. Pipe has gold color now, no blue. :thumb: (guess it's not getting to hot.) I did over heat recently, This thing don't like to sit and idle for lengthy times at all!!!!. I let it cool down and she ran good on the way home that evening. Maybe that 35pj will help some.. :dunno: Ok guys, i stuck the oem airbox on today for s&g. Man, that robbed my power bad, It's alot slower, revs are lower(took forever to even break 10g's).... Dumb question time, so i ASSUME i'll need to "re tune" everything to run the oem box?...ie; cvt, carb Under 3/4 throttle, she spits, dies out BAD. I ASSUME that means to lower the needle now.(it's all the way up now). It wont go under 3/4. Can the oem box richen it THAT much? Starting was easier at 1st today. I rode to the store, i went to leave it was harder to start again, AND of course provo is out of any rings(provo has em for $14.95 and scootercraft has em for $55!! WTH?).....in case thats the issue.. Thanks again for any input
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Post by 2strokd on Aug 27, 2011 18:38:59 GMT -5
Just a rejet for the OEM box... Shouldnt be any need to re-tune the CVT.
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