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Post by Thebatman on Sept 10, 2011 17:16:09 GMT -5
Hey guys, i went and reinstalled my "01" needle and the 90mj. Just changed the pj to a 35. My needle has been in the 3rd slot.(all the rich,correct?) Well, now at below a 1/2 throttle it cuts out,etc. It was rated PG........Pure garbage.. Above a 1/2 it was ok again......
Is it safe to assume that with the larger pj AND the needle all the way up that i need to lower my needle 1 slot to accomodate the larger pj?
I had seen that same diagram, thanks for that btw, but of course i only get small doses to "tune" correctly and lord knows i havent gotten the "carb tuning" down.
Is it safe to assume that if i try the S1" needle again that i will need a 100-105mj instead of the 90 to accomodate the larger tapper needle to have at least the same performance i had?
And once again, with a FUEL mix screw or even an air screw i guess, but that all the way in is leaned out, Turning Counter clockwise outwards richens it, I know i'd SWEAR i have read it both ways,(like several "never ending tuning arguments").. I'd swear i read sommewhere that all the way IN was rich, but i do believe that all the way IN leans it,correct?
Thanks for any further input on my carb lessons......
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lbo
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 141
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Post by lbo on Sept 10, 2011 17:47:21 GMT -5
I have been messing with my jets all day today, tired of wrenching on it (can't believe I said that!)
What works for me might not work for you but I will share my results with the Arreche on a S9. I am using the stock 01 slide needle (Don't have the S1 yet). The middle notch was too rich, it seems to like the top notch best as throttle response is smooth and crisp with no gurgling, hic-cups or hesitation. I found the 25PJ works best with this slide needle position. I think a 35PJ sounds rich to me.......... but I am at sea level.
In terms of the A/F screw........ it's considered a "Fuel Adjustment" screw if it's located closer to the manifold or engine. It's called an "Air adjustment" screw if located closer to the airbox away from the engine (upstream of the throttle valve) Counter-clockwise on an "air" screw leans the mixture, clockwise would richen the mix. Just the opposite is true for a "fuel" adjustent screw........... counter-clockwise would richen the mix and clockwise would lean it out.
Hope that makes sense.
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Post by Thebatman on Sept 10, 2011 18:04:09 GMT -5
Thanks for the clarification on the screw....
Yeah, i would think a 35pj was to big also, but it wasn't wanting to start. Been starting good all day...IDK, see there, carb tuning is whack in these hills....lol
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Post by 2strokd on Sept 11, 2011 5:08:14 GMT -5
Sounds like you should move the clip back up yes.. If its still rich on the bottom, move the clip to the middle and try next size smaller jet. Carb tuning is a PITA some times. But keep things minimal so you can go right back, or right to the source if there is a problem.
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Post by Thebatman on Sept 26, 2011 13:01:07 GMT -5
When the cvt fall OUT of the band, (goes from 9+ to 6-6500rpm)doesn't that mean the rollers are still to heavy?..(i had to change to a "green" spring, have a stiffer one coming)
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Post by 2strokd on Sept 27, 2011 8:43:21 GMT -5
I bet its your rear pulley binding up and letting go. Is it at about 30-35MPH when it drops like that?
I had that problem with a SF10 torque driver binding. We would put lighter weights in to compensate for the drop, then it would rev too high before the drop in RPM,s. Heavier weights and it would drop too much RPM and take a second to get back on the pipe.
In my case it was a worn torque driver. I ended up filing it at the worst spot in the ramps to try to keep the driver from "stalling out" at that speed. The filing to make it smoother and addition of a torque control under the spring on the clutch side really helped.
Another thing to check is the vari. Look closely at the little "towers" the vari slides open and closed on and make sure they arent worn and causing a rough spot for the vari to operate.
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Post by Thebatman on Oct 2, 2011 7:53:36 GMT -5
I am still playing with this thing....
ATM my carb is.....85mj....20pj...S1 needle all the way up with the oem airbox(for now, i do miss the extra noise ;D).. I do wonder if i should go back to the Q1 needle.. I still cant "romp" the throttle which was the whole reason i started this... :no: If i "roll" the throttle, she's good; but if i "romp" the throttle she bogs out/dies out.....
On to the cvt, i wish that red spring hadnt went out.. :no:
I have the malossi "green" spring in(have a violet one that shoulda came in yesterday). I cleaned and regreades my T.D and checked everything in case 2strokd was on to something.. I put in some 5.1 rollers and she is alot better but still will fall out of the band..She don't fall out nowhere near as bad as before... I guess i should try some 4.5's to see if that keeps me in the band..
Since the power don't come on really till 7500 rpm, is it safe to ASSUME that this will be "the nature of the beast" with the pipe i have. like if i slow down for a corner and fall out of the band to 6-6500rpm, she'll just roll on till 7500.(if i'm in the 55-6500 range she just goes along whethter you floor it or not till 7500, THEN the power is here.....
Thanks for any additional input or advice guys......
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 2, 2011 9:31:25 GMT -5
I'd keep messing with the needles and needle positions.
When your setup supports higher revs and especially with more aggressive port shapes or pipe setups, they tend to be dead below a certain RPM. That usually means they hit pretty hard though, so there is a good side. Stiffer clutch springs/lighter rollers/stiffer contra could help. Sometimes it's hard to get one to be "streetable" and perform to peak though. Might have to have a bit of sacrifice in performance if you want a little better street manners.
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Post by Thebatman on Oct 2, 2011 20:22:22 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply.. YEah, ATM anyway she seems to be a bit "dead" below 7000(6-7000)(5000 and it'll hit the band alot easier than if you have 6-6500 :stumped: ) , but 7500+ "it's on like a pot of neckbone"!!! :drool: :laugh: Of course i did do some port work and have the rs2 pipe. I would like my other spring tho. I think it liked the stiffer contra  I think i will swap out the needle again just to try it out. I want to try a 9 series plug again too |
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Post by 2strokd on Oct 3, 2011 11:05:41 GMT -5
All the SF10,s ive worked on and rode seemed to like between 7-10,000RPM. Mine likes 7-8,000 with the Leo SP3 and 7g sliders. I have the CVT just like the engine likes it. At any speed from 0-40+MPH you can nail the throttle and the tach will go right to the engines peak power. That is how to get the best out or your set-up. Get the cvt matched up to your engines peak power RPM range. The pesky drop your speaking of sucks tho! I worked for a good while on that one until i figured it all the way out of my uncles Cobra.
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Post by Thebatman on Oct 3, 2011 20:04:04 GMT -5
I would swear this thing will run 11,500rpm max. It definately goes a good bit past the 10g mark.(of course this oem tach only goes to 10g's  but have plenty of room past it. :laugh: ) I didnt touch it today. I will try some 4.5's and see. I won't get the "violet" spring untill wed. :no: |
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Post by 2strokd on Oct 4, 2011 13:43:46 GMT -5
Is it making its peak power at 11,000+ tho? It could be "useless revving" past a certain point?
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Post by Thebatman on Oct 4, 2011 19:26:15 GMT -5
It makes power from 7500 all the way, She'll jump everytime in that range..up to 5000, it'll hit the band ..6-6500 pretty dead, 7500 she's outta here....lol
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Post by Thebatman on Jan 3, 2012 18:12:03 GMT -5
Would anybody happen to have any input on getting a carb dialed in?  ? I have 12 printed articles in my hand and every one say something different. Have went elsewhere for tips and get told something different there as well.... I have an arreche 19mmm carb... These carbs have a FUEL MIX screw(on the intake side, FUEL MIX, correct?),,, not the AIR MIX screw on most carbs...It's down in the 20's around here now and i'm afraid i will fk my engine up very soon. I had a nasty DEAD spot at 1/4 throttle, rode it to the store, Came out of the store and had to twist the screws EVERYWHERE just to get her to fire. Had the mix at 1-1/2 then but could'nt go over 1/4 throttle without spitting,spuddering,etc.. I have been riding with it at 1/2 OUT |
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Post by Thebatman on Jan 3, 2012 18:21:20 GMT -5
I have even been told that you don't need to touch the carb in the winter.. That's gotta be bullshit cuz mine is garbage now...
What causes a LONG return to idle?
Why will it idle higher/smoother at 1-1/2 turns out on the mix screw BUT WON"T MOVE.... Take it back to 1/2 and it'll move but with low,erratic idle
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but have plenty of room past it. :laugh: )
?