|
CHT?
Sept 11, 2015 2:34:49 GMT -5
spaz12 likes this
Post by tsimi on Sept 11, 2015 2:34:49 GMT -5
Just contacted the china seller and he sold me 2x 14mm id sensor rings for a very good price including shipping. Even though that product does not exist in his products list. Here again, that dude is so kind and fast. Within minutes the deal was concluded.
|
|
|
Post by tsimi on Sept 18, 2015 5:31:36 GMT -5
I received my replacement display today! Yeah! And with the live support via Line from birdman I was able to connect it and it worked this time! I additionally added an 12V8A on/off switch to be able to turn off the display because; 1. I didn't wanna fry anything this time 2. The display won't turn off when the key is set to off. (Image #3) My tacho meter works as it should, key ON tacho goes on, key OFF tacho turns off. The tacho uses a plus, minus and signal wire the display don't have that signal wire, that might be the reason? Anyway with the ON/OFF switch there shouldn't be any problem unless I forget to turn it off. Tomorrow I will be able to compare the temperatures with my home made CHT let's see how close I was. And as always....IMAGES! Next will be the mounting issue and clean up of the wiring.
|
|
|
CHT?
Sept 18, 2015 8:38:48 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by tsimi on Sept 18, 2015 8:38:48 GMT -5
Just went out and compared quickly both CHT gauges, engine off state. My home made says 22,2C which is about 71.96F and my new display (with 14mm spark plug sensor) says 71F. I would say they are same. Tomorrow i'll go for a drive and compare them with a running engine.
Speaking of running engine, it sometimes happen that the engine won't start unless i close the snorkel hole with my fingers. Deos that mean i run too lean or is it an auto chocke issue? I happens only if i didn't drive the Scooter for 3-4 days or longer.
|
|
|
CHT?
Sept 18, 2015 9:11:36 GMT -5
Post by Elektrey on Sept 18, 2015 9:11:36 GMT -5
where did you wire up the positive wire running to the display?
I have mine wired to the stator where one of the tach lights used to be wired to. This way it only comes on when the engine is on. (let's face it, a CHT is useless if the engine isn't on)
There should be an ignition-on hot lead somewhere in that scooter. just find whatever else turns "on" when the key turns to on and it should work if you wire it to that lead.
|
|
|
CHT?
Sept 18, 2015 9:25:45 GMT -5
Post by tsimi on Sept 18, 2015 9:25:45 GMT -5
ElektreyDo you have by any chance a picture of your wiring to the stator? Here close images of my wiring at the moment. It is chaotic since I didn't had time to clean it up yet. I took the +plus and -minus from here.(image below) The wires you see in the image here below are the wires connected to the tacho meter. I haven't taken any pictures of the wiring after installing the CHT yet, will do that asap.
|
|
|
Post by Elektrey on Sept 18, 2015 22:10:47 GMT -5
sorry been gone all day but here
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 18, 2015 22:14:56 GMT -5
Great job. That looks good.
Bill
|
|
|
CHT?
Sept 18, 2015 23:50:22 GMT -5
Post by spaz12 on Sept 18, 2015 23:50:22 GMT -5
Just went out and compared quickly both CHT gauges, engine off state. My home made says 22,2C which is about 71.96F and my new display (with 14mm spark plug sensor) says 71F. I would say they are same. Tomorrow i'll go for a drive and compare them with a running engine. Speaking of running engine, it sometimes happen that the engine won't start unless i close the snorkel hole with my fingers. Deos that mean i run too lean or is it an auto chocke issue? I happens only if i didn't drive the Scooter for 3-4 days or longer. Mine would do the same thing when not started for a few days. Whether or not it's normal for the carbs with the auto enricher, I'm not sure. I don't have the same problem with phgb carb though. You should also be able to trace the tail light wire for your power. And on a side note; get some McGuires Back to Black for those plastic pieces on your dash and knee panel. The stuff is amazing at bringing that plastic back to life. Beside, you can't have that pretty red paint job and then those dull black panels. That just doesn't cut it man
|
|
|
CHT?
Sept 19, 2015 0:00:02 GMT -5
Post by birdman on Sept 19, 2015 0:00:02 GMT -5
Im not sure if they have mcguires around these parts.
|
|
|
CHT?
Sept 19, 2015 0:07:47 GMT -5
Post by spaz12 on Sept 19, 2015 0:07:47 GMT -5
Bummer
|
|
|
CHT?
Sept 19, 2015 0:12:29 GMT -5
spaz12 likes this
Post by birdman on Sept 19, 2015 0:12:29 GMT -5
There has to be something similar im sure
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2015 0:14:46 GMT -5
They might have Armorall. That usually works well too. Or, something that has silicone in a spray form.
Bill
|
|
|
Post by spaz12 on Sept 19, 2015 0:18:38 GMT -5
A heat gun does some pretty cool stuff to plastic, but I only suggest it to people that have used them a lot on plastic because you can ruin those panels rather quickly if you don't know what you're doing.
|
|
|
CHT?
Sept 19, 2015 4:11:30 GMT -5
Post by tsimi on Sept 19, 2015 4:11:30 GMT -5
ElektreyThanks for the video! Damn you put that display nicely inside there. I have not such large space around my scooter so I have to think of something. Does your display work? I could pull the power from the wires that usually go to the front light. Those get only power when the key is turned to on...I think. Will do more searching until I find a suitable spot. Thanks again. Here is a self made diagram that shows how the wiring looks like at this very moment. I am not an electrician so don't expect a wiring diagram as the pros draw. *IMAGE REMOVED by Tsimi* spaz12 What? You don't like my panels? You know how many years of rain, sun and snow it takes to get that specific color tone? That could be considered Art! [joke-end] You are right they look terrible. I was putting that at the very bottom of my to do list. I was more focusing on getting the Scooters performance and cooling up. We don't have those Brands that you guys have in the US. I think I have these following 3 choices. 1. Use some car dashboard cleaner/polisher which will probably last 2-3 months. 2. Paint the panels flat black, which involves some work like removing them or keep them in place while painting and mask/tape off the rest of the scooter. To be honest I was trying to avoid painting, I had enough of it after painting all my panels and wheels. 3. This is the best option work-wise but not really cheap. Wakos Super Hard Wax comes in a small bottle and needs to be applied on the plastics with some sponge. After 24h drying the panels gonna look like new (flat black kinda look). The thing is that tiny bottle cost $60! that is a lot $$$ for such thing. I will see what I can find when I go next time to the auto parts store here near by. Regarding the no start issue. Yeah it happens only sometimes so I can live with it as long it is not a lean condition issue. I just need to remove the seat bucket to get to the carb and airbox to close the hole with my fingers. Maybe I can build some sort of auto choke lever kinda thing that closes the hole when I pull/slide it.
|
|
|
CHT?
Sept 19, 2015 4:40:50 GMT -5
Post by tsimi on Sept 19, 2015 4:40:50 GMT -5
OK, front light is a no go. There is no power going to it when turning the key. Can someone explain to me how the brake light works? When I turn the key to ON but don't kick start it yet the tacho meter, speed/odo meter and the break light have power. How does pulling the brake lever make the light shine? Is there a cut connection that gets connected when pulling the brake lever?
|
|