|
Post by oldgeek on Mar 5, 2016 0:46:46 GMT -5
Ever since I first joined this forum I have wanted to do a naked scoot build like 90GTVert's T2 scoot I have always been a function over fashion kind of guy so I guess that is one reason why the style appeals to me. And without all those krappy plastics in the way they gotta be much easier to work on. You also gain some legroom and freedom which appeals to me due to my size. Another plus is they have a way cool Mad Max or Rat Rod kind of look. One reason I have not done this build yet is I did not want to TOTALLY plagiarize 90GTVerts work. But now I have a scoot that I think is perfect for this build. I picked up a non-running Kymco super fever ZX a while back in pretty sad shape thinking I would be able to fix it up, but after I got it home and looked at it closely I realized that it was too far gone. Most of the tabs on the plastics are broken, explaining the extensive use of duct tape on the scoot. And some other things like the cdi wiring and the cluster wiring and headlight were also hacked up pretty bad. So tonight my buddy and I stripped it down to what it is now, and I am really looking forward to this build. I am going to keep the rack on the rear, I think it gives it a little bit of a stunt bike look although I will never stunt it, at least not on purpose I wont. Anyway here is the starting point of my build, I think it will end up pretty cool. screenshot
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Mar 5, 2016 8:56:37 GMT -5
I think you'll be very happy when it's done. T2 is by far my favorite scooter because if you forget aesthetics you can create something much more functional and on a limited budget. No more body panels to break or scratch if it falls, easy access to the engine with just seat bucket removal at worst, more comfortable seating for larger people. Everyone should own one or more if you ask me. Looking forward to seeing what you do with it.
|
|
|
Post by albongo on Mar 5, 2016 9:02:47 GMT -5
Naked scoot is next winters plan. I look forward to seeing how yours turn out. I think they're cool.
|
|
|
Post by cwazywazy on Mar 5, 2016 16:47:12 GMT -5
Yup. Only thing my 50cc Peace Sport has left is the floor for my feet and the seat. All other body panels are gone.
|
|
|
Post by thatcrazyguy on Mar 5, 2016 16:58:27 GMT -5
What are your plans with the engine?
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Mar 9, 2016 22:45:41 GMT -5
What are your plans with the engine? It will likely remain stock for now, as time and $$ allow it will certainly end up BBK'ed. For the short time I had my other Kymco ZX running with the Polini Corsa kit I was really impressed. Lack of gear oil ended that build quickly.
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Mar 15, 2016 22:30:16 GMT -5
I have been making a little progress here and there on this project. There is quite a bit of planning to be done when you commit to building a naked scooter. Lots of things are displaced or uncovered that end up needing to be dealt with. So far I am very pleased at the quality I am finding underneath the skin of this scoot. For instance the seat bucket is solid and made of a glass filled plastic I believe, and it is perfect for this type of build. IMO if you ever have the chance to pick one of these scoots up, do it! They are well built, and easier to work on than any I have come across so far. I have only ridden this scooter briefly after I bought it and got it running before deciding to skin it. So now I am working on things that will get it rideable again for now. A few of the things I have done so far are removed the oil tank, pump, cable and associated piping for the pump from it. Installed an oil pump delete plug (time for premix). Cut a new filter element, and rebuilt the stock airbox with parts from my other stock ZX airbox. I changed the gear oil, went through the CVT and cleaned it up while installing an aluminium fixed pulley, and lighter weights I had for it. Next up are the controls and switches. The stock rear brake perch is broke and all the stock switches were panel mounted in the cluster housing which is no longer being used so I am going to have to convert to the handlebar mounted stuff. I have some used stage 6 controls that I got from a forum member a while back that would look nice on this scoot, but they came spliced up to Vento style plugs, so I would rather save them for a Vento. So I am looking for some cheap halfway decent quality controls to use on this build. I have a couple ideas for the foot rest area. I was thinking of some chain in some type of framework, or I may just use some aluminium plate that I have on hand. I have a brake light I want to use almost exactly like the one 90GTVert has on his scoot, those things are bright! I also have just about decided to bite the bullet and buy a projector headlight and bracket from a Sachs madass bike that I think is cool, but will cost me about $40 for the housing, and $25 for the bracket.
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Mar 20, 2016 16:45:25 GMT -5
Yesterday I finished everything needed to get it running well enough to ride it around the warehouse area. No rear brake and no lights yet, no problem! Lol! My plans for the cool looking projector style headlights is on hold due to lack of funding. So I used the stock headlight assembly and mounted it using some spacers. It looks pretty good I think, but I cant decide if it looks better or not with the top fairing installed. Wow! That wiring is going to be a lot of ugly to hide!
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Mar 21, 2016 6:36:18 GMT -5
Cut anything you don't need out of the harness and if you don't care about having a 2 piece harness you could probably remove one big lump buy soldering the wires together and losing the 2 large connectors. I relocated some parts to shield them from the elements a little better and hide them. Using partial fairings (leg shield and floorboard) lets you run wires and cables much less conspicuously and hide small components... plus helps to keep everything on the road from coming up at you from the front tire. Wires are still easy to see on my scoot, but if you keep them wrapped in black to match the frame they don't really draw your attention. Guess you could go all out and start running wires through the frame if you really want it clean.
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Mar 22, 2016 21:37:16 GMT -5
Cut anything you don't need out of the harness and if you don't care about having a 2 piece harness you could probably remove one big lump buy soldering the wires together and losing the 2 large connectors. I relocated some parts to shield them from the elements a little better and hide them. Using partial fairings (leg shield and floorboard) lets you run wires and cables much less conspicuously and hide small components... plus helps to keep everything on the road from coming up at you from the front tire. Wires are still easy to see on my scoot, but if you keep them wrapped in black to match the frame they don't really draw your attention. Guess you could go all out and start running wires through the frame if you really want it clean. It looks like quite a bit of the wires could be deleted, and there are a couple extra electrical things on this scoot that I don't even know what they do yet. Like the resistors, and a module of some type on the rear of the scoot. I like the idea of running cables through the frame too, that would be cool. Also thinking about putting CDI, coil, regulator, battery, start relay and anything else that will fit in the seat bucket. I don't really need storage space on the rides I take around here. There are three wires going to the fuel gauge, is there a stand alone aftermarket gauge that I could use with the three wires?
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Mar 23, 2016 8:31:39 GMT -5
Not sure about the gauge. I've only ever used a 2 wire, and generally use the odometer as fuel gauge. I tried searching for a gauge for a 3 wire a little, but didn't come up with anything useful. On cars, the third wire may be for low fuel lights, but on scoots I think the gauge and sender are in a loop so the gauge sees the difference in outgoing and incoming. Not sure how well you'd be able to get around that and use a 2 wire. I may be totally wrong on that though, don't really know a lot about them.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2016 9:48:39 GMT -5
No need for helmet or shopping bag.
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Mar 24, 2016 18:10:41 GMT -5
No need for helmet or shopping bag. Pretty much! The parts I ordered came in this week, and there should be plenty of time to work on the scoot this weekend. I am hoping I will be able to get most of the wiring done, the new controls I ordered installed, brake light, headlights, and turn signals finished up. There will definitely be some ride time in there too, somewhere!
|
|
|
Post by oldgeek on Mar 28, 2016 17:24:58 GMT -5
I did not get as much done this weekend on this build as I would have liked. It rained and some other things popped up that I had to do. I spent most of the time installing the controls and converting the stock switches over to the bar mounted controls. The controls came from feebay and were listed to be for a VOG260. They are kinda big and clunky, bigger than I thought they would be from the pictures, but I like them now that they are installed. Next up will be the brake light and turn signals. Since I am converting to LED signals, I guess I will need to buy a LED flasher. Does anyone have a recommendation?
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Mar 28, 2016 17:43:40 GMT -5
I've used this one on my scoots that need them and they've worked well. Get one that has a ground, not just a 2 prong. I had 2 different 2 prong units alleged to be for LEDs before I got these and they didn't work. Other options are to use resistors or sometimes if you don't convert every bulb in the turn signal circuit to LED there's enough load that it will work. I had all LEDs with just the incandescent indicator on one and it did fine with the stock flasher.
|
|