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Post by stepthrutuner on May 6, 2016 22:52:37 GMT -5
Piaggio cranks are said to hold up pretty well to this range of rpm. Even over 11,000. I used to cuise mine at 10 - 10,200 all the time.
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Post by gsx600racer on May 7, 2016 0:10:35 GMT -5
I think an Arisal bbk and gears will get you close($250) Leaves you a couple hundred for a carb and some cvt tuning goodies. @140 lbs, it shouldn't take much to get him to 60
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Post by spaz12 on May 7, 2016 0:41:35 GMT -5
Athena Sport, Yasuni R and a set of gears.
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Post by oldgeek on May 7, 2016 5:16:02 GMT -5
Athena Sport, Yasuni R and a set of gears. Someone here previously mentioned that combo but I dont remember who, was it you? Have you ran that combo before? I have always worked with the cast iron stuff, I guess its time to try an aluminium kit.  |
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Post by spaz12 on May 7, 2016 9:12:20 GMT -5
Nope, not me but I love those Athena cylinders though and can't say enough good things about them.
I've never tried the Yasuni R, but have heard a lot of good things about them. I'll complain about the carbon fiber and kevlar silencers though. I had C16's with both and both peeled. I'd go for the aluminum silencer if you decide on that pipe.
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Post by stepthrutuner on May 7, 2016 14:05:13 GMT -5
You may not be happy with upgearing with straight cut gears. They are very noisy. A tweaked (easy to grind aluminum) AIRSAL butterfly single ring T6 with 19 or 21mm carb, cf reeds and a decent street-race/mid-race pipe will deliver 60 mph w/o the gears. I ran a such a setup for a couple of years pretty reliably dispite struggling with a leaking intake and using cheap oil. With only one ring the ring land will wallow out and the piston will have to be replaced after maybe 3ooo-5000 mi.
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Post by oldgeek on May 31, 2016 22:37:03 GMT -5
Parts are on order!
Athena Sporting cylinder and Yasuni R pipe.
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Post by spaz12 on May 31, 2016 22:47:20 GMT -5
Wow, that aught to make that scoot a ton of fun! I might actually do it to mine one of these days.
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Post by oldgeek on Jun 14, 2016 17:09:07 GMT -5
No word on my order from scootertuning yet, not that I have had any spare time if they were here. My buddy ran out of gas the other day while riding the Derbi. It does not really have a gas gauge. We thought it might have a indicator light when it is on reserve or low but nothing gave any warning before it ran out of gas. derbiman can you tell me how the gas and reserve works? I have no clue. |
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Post by gsx600racer on Jun 14, 2016 18:15:00 GMT -5
No word on my order from scootertuning yet, not that I have had any spare time if they were here. My buddy ran out of gas the other day while riding the Derbi. It does not really have a gas gauge. We thought it might have a indicator light when it is on reserve or low but nothing gave any warning before it ran out of gas. derbiman can you tell me how the gas and reserve works? I have no clue. There is a fuel warning light that comes on @ 1.9 liters of fuel remaining. That is what they consider the reserve capacity. My guess could be that the bulb is burned out, or the fuel float switch is faulty or sticking, or you might have a wiring issue. Check out page 43 here for testing the fuel float switch. |
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Post by derbiman on Jun 14, 2016 20:25:59 GMT -5
Make sure that the sending unit is getting a good ground or the reserve light will not come on. The oil level sending unit is the same way. Once the levels get low enough, the unit will close the circuit like a switch that goes to ground. You can find the electrical schematics on the internet or they may be in the manuals section on the left of the screen.
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Post by derbiman on Jun 14, 2016 20:30:13 GMT -5
One other thing to look at is the circuit board behind the speedometer. The terminals on the tiny bulbs can become rusted and will lose contact. (Been there,done that)
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Post by derbiman on Jun 15, 2016 6:22:51 GMT -5
I forgot to mention that the lights(oil and fuel) should come on for a few seconds and go back off after you turn the ignition switch on.
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Post by oldgeek on Jun 15, 2016 6:58:42 GMT -5
I forgot to mention that the lights(oil and fuel) should come on for a few seconds and go back off after you turn the ignition switch on. The oil and fuel light do come on briefly when you turn the ignition on, so I will be checking the sending unit. Considering the hacks that worked on it, the sender is likely just unplugged! Thanks for the help. |
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Post by derbiman on Jun 15, 2016 19:40:17 GMT -5
I forgot to mention that the lights(oil and fuel) should come on for a few seconds and go back off after you turn the ignition switch on. The oil and fuel light do come on briefly when you turn the ignition on, so I will be checking the sending unit. Considering the hacks that worked on it, the sender is likely just unplugged! Thanks for the help. No problem Old Geek. Any thing I can do to help.  |
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