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Post by tsimi on Nov 3, 2016 18:42:20 GMT -5
spaz12That spanish dude is awesome. Cigarette in the mouth, kids running around and he free hand grinds on that case like the boss. That looks like to be enough meat around the crank, more then I thought.
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Post by spaz12 on Nov 3, 2016 18:47:34 GMT -5
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Post by niz76 on Nov 3, 2016 18:48:46 GMT -5
I just checked a Vento Zip (shortcase) set of cases I have here and there's plenty of meat for a 90cc crank...
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Post by tsimi on Nov 3, 2016 22:33:24 GMT -5
Went to the used bike parts store and saw this.   I don't know the quality of Koso but $70 for a 28mm PWK is not bad. I find often Keihin, Oko and Koso PWK carbs here. |
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Post by PIG on Nov 3, 2016 22:42:07 GMT -5
I'd wait for a real Keihin
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Post by niz76 on Nov 3, 2016 23:04:05 GMT -5
+1^^^
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Post by Lucass2T on Nov 4, 2016 2:23:43 GMT -5
Yep, me too.
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Post by birdman on Nov 5, 2016 0:53:07 GMT -5
Ive never used a real Keihin but I do have an OKO on my Elite that I use without problems after I changed out the slide and needle.
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Post by Lucass2T on Nov 5, 2016 9:28:26 GMT -5
Its like buying a tv. When you look at the screen of a midrange tv in someones livingroom it will look okay...but when you see it in a shop next too some big buck high-end tv's, only then you'll see the difference. It's the same with carbs.
Tuning is hard enough sometimes and when done improperly all the time, effort and money invested in your engine can be wasted in a second. And it all depends on the carb! A carb is so incredibly important that I would never buy a replica coming from some secret mysterious unknown factory. The thing is...its super hard for yourself to subject a carb to certain quality checks because you don't have a flow bench and can't really look into all the little air passages.
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Post by tsimi on Nov 6, 2016 4:17:44 GMT -5
Did some case splitting today to take measurements.    As you can see in the last picture I broke the M8->M6 adapter. I rushed things a bit and didn't position the splitter correctly.  The following is from a 5BM, short case engine. The stock crank measures 71.9mm and the crank space is about 73.5mm. The meat around has a width of 4mm. Now the MXS manual said something about 77mm which is not sure if it is the crank size or the space that needs to be opened for the crank to fit. Let's say it is the space we need to open that would mean we have a difference of 3.5mm meaning we need to grind off 1.75mm. That again leaves us with a meat width of 2.25mm that of course if we can grind that precisely. Let's say meat at the end is 2mm. Is that enough to seal and handle the crank moving in there? |
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Post by spaz12 on Nov 6, 2016 4:30:55 GMT -5
Holy moley, that would be thin. The Zuma and Aerox cases must be thicker because people stuff those cranks in there. Besides, maxiscoot makes it for these motors and they would stand to lose their reputation if the damn things were failure prone. I would think.
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Post by 190mech on Nov 6, 2016 4:48:42 GMT -5
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Post by tsimi on Nov 6, 2016 4:52:36 GMT -5
Thanks for the link 190mech. That looks thin. Kinda like 2mm thin.  I guess I'll see when my Aerox engine arrives. I'll measure and compare then again. |
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Post by tsimi on Nov 6, 2016 4:56:42 GMT -5
with 2mm I meant the sealing surface only where you apply gasket maker before closing the cases, not the whole wall around it.
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 6, 2016 6:10:32 GMT -5
I am confused, Those are the 5BM cases, but you are going to use Aerox cases on this project?
When I checked my 5BM cases, there did not appear to be near enough meat left in the crank area to seal if I were to cut them. Same way for my Kymco SC10 cases. I was thinking of using 125cc kit that they sell for the Honda AF16E, in Kymco SC10 cases, but if I opened up the cases enough for the crank, I would break into the bolt holes that hold the cases together. I have not checked a set of Honda AF16E cases, but they must be thicker.
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