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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 17, 2022 19:38:44 GMT -5
I’ve considered a tail tidy / fender eliminator for a long time. Two problems. They’re too expensive (~$200 or more) and I wasn’t sure about committing to a stripe on my back if the road is wet. I think the TMAX is a good looking scoot though, and they make it even better. I looked around for people doing their own, but not much came up. I’m sure many are out there, but not posted. Sku-Torr from MajestyUSA posted one that was not bad (below), but I wanted to see if it could be cut down even more and look OK.  I checked it out today and it seemed like I could totally get rid of the plastic fender, but keep the under tail section. The fender is about $45 right now, so I figured it was worth the risk to try it.     I cut the stock bracket for the mudguard as well, so it still bolts up the same. Cut a piece of 16ga steel for a tag holder and welded that on. Anyone not wanting to weld could make a whole new bracket and bend it.  I still need to clean up the bracket and paint it, but I’m pretty pleased with it so far. Under tail bit not installed in the pic.  I don’t have a tag light now. Gonna cover that the easy way. I’m getting an illuminated tag frame and it should connect to the stock wires. So $35 plus steel and paint. It could be even cheaper if you use bolt lights or universal tag lights. That stuff can be had for $5 to $15 on Amazon. It’s also missing a rear reflector, but I’ll probably use reflector tag bolts. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 17, 2022 22:26:22 GMT -5
DynoJet replied to my question about including an o2 controller...
"For the modern bikes with closed loop systems we have found in recent testing and analysis that most modern engines now have actually been designed to run at the leaner factory settings. In the closed loop area of the fuel curve we find they generally run better if the factory closed loop system is retained and not changed. That area is generally very low engine load conditions at the low rpm and throttle, so it does not require substantial fuel changes to run optimally like the high rpm, high throttle settings do. Due to this and ever tighter emissions regulations at the state and federal levels we now recommend the factory closed loop O2 sensor components be left connected, and if using our Auto Tune it would only make adjustments outside that area where they are truly needed for the high engine load conditions at higher rpm and throttle settings. Leaving the factory sensors in place and installing the Auto tune for fuel adjustments outside the closed loop area actually gives you the best overall compromise between fuel economy and power and performance when actually needed. You get maximum economy in the low rpm throttle range, and max power and performance in the high rpm, throttle range."
That sounds like a no on the o2 controller. I'll be pretty surprised if Malossi ever replies.
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Post by captincvmn on Oct 18, 2022 5:15:20 GMT -5
That pipe without the db killer sounds killer.
That sputter though. Ugh
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 18, 2022 7:12:26 GMT -5
Malossi has never responded to me before that I recall, so I was pretty surprised to get an answer.
"As the lambda emulator works on a before it was used by the ECU for the calulation is a complement of the Force Master."
I think that says it takes care of it? Maybe it means the lambda sensor works in conjunction with it? My brain doesn't work well with unclear text. I found their manual for it and it says it covers the entire RPM range, so one way or another it should be dealing with low throttle/RPM... maybe.
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Post by bigmatthew86 on Oct 18, 2022 13:40:02 GMT -5
They dyno jet answer sounds like they are trying to justify not doing something. The epa cracks down so they can’t do something but still want to sell a product. Everything comes crazy lean from the factory which is cleaner but sucks for performance. I had a vanes & Hines fuel pack on my girls sportster & it ran better off a canned map then the auto tune.
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 18, 2022 16:22:11 GMT -5
Everything I touched today turned to crap. I went to swap on the LED tail/brake and turn signal bulbs. The tail/brake is correct; an 1157. I looked on MajestyUSA before buying the signals and 1156 was supposed to be it. Wrong. They’re PY21W. Basically like the 1156, but the tabs on an 1156 are 180 degrees apart and these are clocked different.
I went to apply tint to the tail and turn housing. It bends sharply in spots and I couldn’t get it to stick everywhere without air bubbles. Gave up on the tint idea.
I took the front off. One headlight doesn’t want to come on at all. I have a wiring mod with a relay to make both headlights work for both low and high beams. I’ve had connection issues in that before, which I thought were taken care of, but I looked for a bit and couldn’t find anything. Just a blown bulb, so that’s ordered.
I also had a flush mount LED front turn signal kit to install. There is nothing made for the TMAX to my knowledge, short of swapping to Euro panels. I found that the R6/R1 stock signals are the same part number as the TMAX signals. I bought an R6/R1 kit. What I didn’t think about is that the stock signals are the same, but the cutouts in the fairings are not. They don’t fit.
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Post by repherence2 on Oct 18, 2022 21:50:07 GMT -5
DynoJet replied to my question about including an o2 controller... "For the modern bikes with closed loop systems we have found in recent testing and analysis that most modern engines now have actually been designed to run at the leaner factory settings. In the closed loop area of the fuel curve we find they generally run better if the factory closed loop system is retained and not changed.
i find it neat to see you talk about this kind of stuff. it reminds me of 2006 and trying to turbocharge my '92 accord and run it on Uberdata. Uberdata was freeware created by a guy who was into Mitsubishi turbo cars. he reverse engineered the Honda ECUs of that time (P06 civic non-vtec and the p72 integra GSR vtec) to run turbochargers. he had even input "lauch control" at that time in which you could set your 2 step rev limit and your rollout speed to be achieved before the ECU switched over to the second rev limiter. i was not willing to spend $300-400 on a HONDATA piggy back.
these were the days of Xenocron chip kits, ROM emulators, Ostrich chip burners, and Data logging. and to think, the resistors and capacitors, aside from the chip, socket, and IT latch were all available at Radio Shack. but everything you needed was available from Xenocron (Xenocron Tuning Soutions) back in that time and the Freeware was available from PGMFI.org during that era.
seems like you could just get a Honda Civic ECU (p06), install a chip kit, and tune it with Uberdata or CROME. those were all Freeware around 2006. Uberdata was a Free competitor to the expensive Hondata ECU systems. with Uberdata you could control timing, fuel, 2-step, launch control (which was activated via the defroster switch) and you could toggle it to run in Closed-loop or Open-loop. but i guess running a P06 ECU with Uberdata would be dependent on whether or not your TMax was OBD1 or OBD2.
TMax is probably like OBD2. but there was a way to convert OBD2 engines to run on OBD1 ECU's. PGMFI.org is still around and they still have a section for Blake Warner's (Uberteg) ROM editor Uberdata, Crome (by John Cui), and Turbo Edit (by Jason Parker). all of those programs allowed you to tune Timing and Fuel for OBD1 Honda ECU's, but i know that Uberdata had a function to toggle Open-loop or Closed-loop because that's what i had as the engine management on my '92 Accord turbo project.
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 18, 2022 23:21:32 GMT -5
This is all way too much effort for 15 second quarter miles. lol It did go 15.19 on the best pass and honestly that makes me want to see a 14.99.
I'm going to try to get an old friend to come out with me on his CBR 600. Actually contacted him Sunday before I headed to the swamps, but he was working on his house at the time. I haven't rode with him since his 2008 was just a few years old, but I'm sure it will be a great example of how pointless the TMAX mods are. Here's an old vid, and the 01 GT was much faster than the TMAX.
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Post by Lucass2T on Oct 19, 2022 4:05:45 GMT -5
The t-max doesnt make too much sense if you are looking for a performance bike and then compare it to any other modern bike and look solely at numbers. You figured that out quite early already. But its a big comfortable scooter which you love and therefore it makes more sense. Lucky there are no real performance parts available for it...we all know where that would end😂
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Post by aeroxbud on Oct 19, 2022 5:24:42 GMT -5
The t-max doesnt make too much sense if you are looking for a performance bike and then compare it to any other modern bike and look solely at numbers. You figured that out quite early already. But its a big comfortable scooter which you love and therefore it makes more sense. Lucky there are no real performance parts available for it...we all know where that would end😂 What about the turbo kits? 🤔🙈 |
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Post by Lucass2T on Oct 19, 2022 5:42:16 GMT -5
The t-max doesnt make too much sense if you are looking for a performance bike and then compare it to any other modern bike and look solely at numbers. You figured that out quite early already. But its a big comfortable scooter which you love and therefore it makes more sense. Lucky there are no real performance parts available for it...we all know where that would end😂 What about the turbo kits? 🤔🙈 Yeah, but don't tell him 🤫 He moved to scooters after his turbo foxbody. Who knows where he might get into after a turbo t-max, electric scooters? Nobody would want that for him🤣 |
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 19, 2022 6:29:45 GMT -5
My current mods (performance & other), because clearly I've done a great job of just leaving it all stock : Malossi Clutch Pack Malossi Clutch Springs (stiffest) Malossi MultiVar DrPulley Sliders (16g currently, 15g are a little better for acceleration) Mildly Ported & Port Matched Head & Intakes Yoshimura R77 Full Exhaust Malossi Air Filter (ordered) Malossi Force Master 2 Fuel Controller (ordered) Malossi Front & Rear Brake Discs Malossi Sintered Brake Pads Front & Rear Malossi Braided Stainless Brake Hose Kit Powerbronze Double Bubble Windshield (Cut Down Slightly) Full Time Dual Headlight Mod & Silverstar Ultra Bulbs Universal LED Front Turn Signals With Running Lights (ordered) LED Tail/Brake Bulb 12V & USB Outlet In Glove Boxes DIY Ball Mount Bar On Handlebars (GPS/GoPro Mount) Hardwired GPS Power Cable Helper Springs For Seat Struts Yamaha Rear Rack For Top Case & Matching Top Case DIY Rear Fender Eliminator Gloss Black Front Y Panel Deer Whistles Gremlin Bell (Need to find a new spot. Was on rear fender.) Aside from things I've already got or recently mentioned, I know there are : Over Range Kit Forged Pistons 560cc Big Bore Kit Camshafts Larger Valves Numerically Lower Gears Turbo Kit Rear Shock Adjustable Front Pre-Load Kit I did find clutch rollers like I mentioned wondering if people used to change clutch engagement. Polini makes them : scooterpartsco.com/yamaha-yamaha-t-max-500-c-95_3576/polini-centrifugal-rollers-for-yamaha-t-max?zenid=85ltfd51ms4i6rikb78igijuv5There's a little more if you have the later model 530-560 TMAX. I'm sure there's more out there if you start looking at specialty shops and there are more tuning related parts. Of course there's universal stuff like nitrous. You can also get full fairing kits in different colors/themes. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 19, 2022 17:37:55 GMT -5
I said yesterday that the 1156 bulbs I bought don’t fit for the rear signals. They should be PY21W or 7507 because the 2 nubs on the base are clocked differently. When I looked up bulbs, people were saying to just cut/sand/grind off one nub on the 1156 and it’ll fit fine and still be secure. That sounded kind of half-assed to me, but so many recommendations came up that I had to try it. Turns out, the bulb does feel secure. Didn’t feel any worse than the stock bulb to me so I swapped both in. The LED seems a little brighter to me and illuminates more quickly. When off, the signals look clear now. LED left, stock right.  |
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sinfull
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 413
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Post by sinfull on Oct 19, 2022 19:23:51 GMT -5
Love the idea that you are totally leaving her stock 😄😄
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 20, 2022 18:29:45 GMT -5
I had 2 5V USB setups to install for the GPS. After my GPS not working with the one I had when I was in Philly last year, I planned to have a duplicate. Went to install them today and came up with perhaps a better option. I just put one on (could have left the old one) and set it up to use bullet connectors near the plug. This way I have less wires, it’s easy to carry a spare and I can use cheap cables instead of full $25 5V packages. Prob would make even more sense if I could use a female USB-A end and then find short cables cheap to plug in that way. I don’t know if it’s worth too much more effort. If cables are wearing out quick, it’s prob going to screw up the port in the GPS at some point.  The LED front signals came in today. Same thing I got for the SSR. They look a lot better IMO. They’re still not small, but they fit the design of the scoot better and blend in more.   I’ve got a couple of issues with those. I made steel plates to help mount the signals. I coated them with rubberized undercoating yesterday. It comes off just trying to get them mounted. I may try to redo them in ABS plastic so there’s no coating to worry about and they are still softer for being against the fairing. The other issue is a quick flash. Resistors with the Yamaha R1 lights didn’t cure it. Resistors with the Amazon lights didn’t either. I temporarily spliced both in together and it flashes normal. I don’t like the bulky resistors and one of them gets very hot quickly. I’ve never been a fan of these kinds of setups. They seem inefficient and more dangerous to me. I’m going to see if I can use a flasher relay for LEDs instead. Prob not that easy with the flashers designed to make you visit a dealer instead of an auto parts store. EDIT : I could probably make something like the kit linked below easily enough. I thought this thing had more pins. www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/rizoma-universal-led-turn-signal-flasher-kit?sku_id=1277860 |
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