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Post by ryan_ott on Sept 29, 2019 18:55:47 GMT -5
It’s had this occasional bog ever since the Top performance pulley. Related/unrelated not sure. Sometimes it takes off great others not so well. I’m also using the same jetting as the cast dual ring Polini, I’ll try a few different slide and needle combos and see if it improves.
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Post by ryan_ott on Oct 2, 2019 16:48:01 GMT -5
I got motivated and tied up some loose ends... Picked up and installed a 4” spal fan. It’s just a manual control (start button). Cleaned up and relocated some wiring while it was apart. CHT moved to the dash with a little led for night viewing. Water wetter added to coolant to help with temps, I feel it does work. Jetting, needle and TD spring change next time along with cleaning.
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Post by ryan_ott on Oct 8, 2019 17:46:57 GMT -5
I feel it’s as good as it’s going to get for now with the time I have left. . Swapped in my MVT intake setup, I went up to a Malossi red TD, added the stiffest pillow springs to the HiT and it’s now pretty abrupt from a stop. I should at least double the mileage out of the front tire. I was having an issue getting it in tune with NGK BR10ES and it just wasn’t happy with them two different plugs it just wouldn’t rev out clean. Switched to a 9 and an Autolite equlivent to the 10 (all the store had) and it’s such a different machine. I’m currently at a 90 main and according to plug wash, CHT and EGT it’s still a tad rich. I’ll try to get it as close to 1150 egt as I can, still on the rich side but safe. I’ve got a few video clips I’ll put together. It’s the most smiles per gallon it’s been. Here is one of my tuning runs. Never mind the miss at the beginning, damn plugs... youtu.be/mR9JatoFX5Q
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Post by Kenho21 on Nov 10, 2019 12:25:54 GMT -5
Finally finished your entire thread (while at work, of course). Did you ever end up doing anything fancy to get to the motor more easily without having to unscrew a metric ton of bolts? These things are even worse than my Jog when it comes to getting at the motor...
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Post by Kenho21 on Nov 10, 2019 12:31:14 GMT -5
Also, sucks that a lot of your pics disappeared throughout the thread. Did you paint it yourself? Rattle cans?
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Post by ryan_ott on Nov 10, 2019 15:04:30 GMT -5
I made a false floor for the under seat storage compartment to make getting to the carb and such much easier. Pick up a sheet of kydex to cover the hole you make. I’ve posted it in here somewhere but I’ll add a picture in a bit. Paint is original. The panels are pretty cheap you could just pick up new ones if needed. The black belly pan is from the 02-05 Zuma, 08+ is grey.
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Post by Kenho21 on Nov 10, 2019 15:17:27 GMT -5
Thanks for the info. A pic of the false floor would be much appreciated. Want to avoid developing carpal tunnel disease from all those damn screws and bolts.
In an attempt to remain somewhat original, I’ll refrain from stealing as many of your ideas as possible, but you’ve done such damn nice work. I’ll just paint everything a different color and add flames haha jk
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Post by ryan_ott on Nov 10, 2019 15:26:31 GMT -5
Do as you please, I won’t take offense. There was a orange/copper colored Zuma, maybe 2005. Partzilla has the panels for cheap if you need them.
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Post by ryan_ott on Nov 10, 2019 20:47:20 GMT -5
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Post by Kenho21 on Nov 10, 2019 22:54:15 GMT -5
Thanks for the pics. I like that option a lot more than buying an entire seat bucket as well. This idea I will steal haha. Kydex is moldable with heat I assume?
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Post by ryan_ott on Nov 10, 2019 23:01:01 GMT -5
Yes it’s very moldable with a heat gun or hair dryer. It’s a good product to have around for various projects. I’m just using Velcro to hold it in place and it’s been fine even with the weight of a tool bag and oil bottles on it.
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Post by Kenho21 on Nov 10, 2019 23:21:19 GMT -5
Yes it’s very moldable with a heat gun or hair dryer. It’s a good product to have around for various projects. I’m just using Velcro to hold it in place and it’s been fine even with the weight of a tool bag and oil bottles on it. Right on. I have a heat gun and some heavy duty Velcro that should do the job nicely. I’ll add some kydex to the long list of stuff left to buy.
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Post by ryan_ott on Dec 15, 2019 19:13:00 GMT -5
The last time I had this running was when I was in OC with Brent sometime in October if I recall. I’ve been stock piling some parts for when the next show comes around I just couldn’t find the motivation to get the work done. Well last night at 2am I found it. I swapped everything to the newer set of cases I have. The MVT ignition and CVT was all ready set up on them prior. When swapping the cylinder over I checked the ring gap to see how things are holding up.... .018” in about 6-8 hours of use, It was setup at .008” I had picked up a piston and ring set with my horde so that was installed and came out to .007”. This might get expensive. Athena recommendation is to replace the piston/ring every 15hrs. I thought that was a joke, apparently not. Maybe I’ll see if I can find a chrome ring since those last longer for me, at least with the cast stuff. Got it fired up with minimal trouble, just a slight kick back but ran the correct direction, I just wanted to hear it run and get air out of the system. Now to figure out how to setup the Stage6 clutch. There just isn’t adequate space for the HiT clutch on the OR setup so I went for a change. Also made an overkill puller since I forgot to order one for the MVT. Old piston, cylinder is flawless.
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Post by oldgeek on Dec 15, 2019 19:23:35 GMT -5
15 hours
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Post by ryan_ott on Dec 15, 2019 19:29:44 GMT -5
15 hours I logged on just under 100 miles with Brent with just a few test runs prior. I’m shocked. The Polini cast stuff lasts forever and the chrome rings I’ve run in them don’t wear. The LC Corsa on my bench has 12-1500 on it and it’s like new, minimal ring gap change. I wonder if Polini aluminum cylinders wear better. Edit: this ring is 47.6 X 1.0, anyone know of a chrome ring in this size
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