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Post by thephranc on Jul 10, 2017 21:12:15 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 11, 2017 16:34:18 GMT -5
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Post by 190mech on Jul 11, 2017 19:55:38 GMT -5
Lovely carriage lock!Will make compound slide cuts much cleaner,,Making a simple drive adapter shaft for using a cordless drill to do 'power feed' when cutting stuff like a variator face will improve the finish too.. This Old Tony shows his rig at about 17:30 on this vid; www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2LcYKi0o3ULathe work is an endless mind exercise of how to set up the part,make accurate cuts,and have a finished part to be proud of,,thats why its sooo interesting!!  |
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Post by greggkinney on Jul 12, 2017 4:28:25 GMT -5
glad to see you working on that variator. believe it or not i actually awoke from a dead sleep at 5:15am just to log on here and ask when your gonna start taking orders to custom cut our drivefaces to match our aftermarket variators. your works looking good and it looks like youve been enjoying your gift. i have to say it again, thats just a great group of guys that did that for you
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Post by FrankenMech on Jul 12, 2017 5:33:09 GMT -5
Very nice job on the carriage lock. It adds functionality to the machine.
It is surprising what you can do in the way of improvements and tooling with a machine that can basically reproduce itself.
That is a nice assortment of brass for $13.50!
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 12, 2017 9:14:02 GMT -5
believe it or not i actually awoke from a dead sleep at 5:15am just to log on here and ask when your gonna start taking orders to custom cut our drivefaces to match our aftermarket variators. Lemme learn how to set things up at an angle correctly first, and I should probably learn more about tooling for a little smoother finish. I also need to look into removing slop from the dials if that's possible. I haven't even tried to remove specific amounts with them because of the play in them so far. Sorry, but I'm not the type to jump into things for others and just hope I don't screw them up. At least wait till it's 50/50. lol |
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Post by FrankenMech on Jul 12, 2017 18:37:31 GMT -5
The dials always have 'slop'. Always approach a given dimension or reading from turning the dial in the same direction. In other words, back off a turn or two then dial in to your required reading. Some of us also use dial indicators on our carriage to keep track of it's position. Always strive to make your last two finishing cuts approximately equal in depth to equalize the backlash in the mechanism. There is always backlash in the mechanism from a surprising range of things such as compression/spring of materials and thickness of lubrication films.
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Post by 190mech on Jul 12, 2017 20:20:29 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 17, 2017 13:06:03 GMT -5
I finally did the motor mount mod, pretty much as John drew it out on page 6. The only difficult part was figuring out how to bend the 1/8" thick steel to the curvature of the motor. I didn't want to put a lot of force on the motor casing, so I put the largest piece of steel pipe that I had around in a vise. Then I used 3 exhaust clamps to bend the steel plate a little. It doesn't match the profile of the motor, but it's good enough.  I welded on a couple of M8x1.25 bolts, after cutting part of them off and making sure that I had their placement aligned with the mounting slots on the lathe. Then I used 2 T-bolt clamps that I had and a worm gear clamp to secure the plate to the motor.   Being able to loosen the clamps and move the motor relative to the plate allowed me to get the belt to ride in the center of the top gear.  I noticed that the belt was touching, or at least very near, this cover. I believe it was quite close in stock form, and moving it out a little with the plate made it worse.  I hacksawed the corner off and then rounded the edges to gain clearance.  I installed a connector while I was in there, thinking it would make it a little easier to remove covers. Turns out, it was a dumb idea. When I put it back together later, it shutoff. I wiggled the connector and it worked again. This style of connection isn't the most secure, so I'll redo it later. I also though one plug to disconnect it was a good thing, but it would actually be easier with more plugs because the wires don't all go to the same place.  The T-bolt clamps fit under the panel, barely.  While I had it apart, I wanted to measure the belt. I took the time to tape a piece of fishing line all the way around the side of the belt.  Then I taped the fishing line to my scooter bench so I could get a good measurement. It was 17 1/16" or roughly 433mm.  I looked for belts close to that. Of course then I saw that these belts are measured around the outside. I figured that number still had to be pretty close. John suggested a T5-420-10 a while ago from McMaster-Carr. That's 420mm around, 10mm wide, with a 5mm pitch. They also had a 170xL037. That's 17" around, just 1/16" off of my measurement, 3/8" wide (~9.5mm), and the pitch is 0.200" (5.08mm). I ordered both. I also found a couple of belts at vbeltsupply.com. One is a 430-5M-09 and the other is a 440-5M-09. They're 9mm wide with a 5mm pitch and the first number is their length. I didn't order those, but there are more possibilities. I think there are more in the 450-460 range as well if need be and there is some shorter stuff too. I don't know how much adjustment I can get out of this yet. The quick change tool post did come with a cutoff tool holder.  I read some reviews that said the small lip on the bottom may not keep bits as secure as it should or that it could even break. I'm not really sure if that's an issue, but I picked up one with a thick lip for ~$20 from littlemachineshop.com.   I also tried to buy 2 cutoff blades from them, but they sent me 2 micro centers. I filled out their form online and then got 2 emails with 2 tracking numbers. I assume they're sending the blades and maybe something to return the centers.  Also sort of lathe related... Standing pretty stationary on concrete to mess with the lathe has been giving me more hip trouble. I went to Lowes this morning and picked up a pack of anti-fatigue mats for $20 and they fit in front of the bench pretty well. They're intended to be put in a 4'x4' square configuration and don't have enough outer strips for laying them out straight, but that's not really a big deal for me. If they make any difference, they'll be worth the $20.  |
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Post by 190mech on Jul 17, 2017 16:51:58 GMT -5
Nice work Brent!Ive got a floor mat in front of my big lathe,it really helps..A stool the right height is a good addition too,my grandpa was a machinist all his life an he'd talk about a stool at a lathe was for "hay jobs",,the operator would adjust and engage the auto feed,watch it run,then back it up and do it again..hours on end!!
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Post by oldgeek on Jul 17, 2017 18:21:17 GMT -5
Surprised and amazed how far you have come and so fast! I just dont have the drive to work on stuff like I used to.
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Post by ryan_ott on Jul 17, 2017 18:37:10 GMT -5
Looks like you are starting to feel right at home in front of that thing. Brent I think it's about time you start pumping out those piston key chains.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 17, 2017 18:50:43 GMT -5
I got the package from LittleMachineShop today. They sent the 2 cutoff blades and sent a padded envelope with a USPS label on it so all I had to do was drop the centers in, seal it, and drop it off. That's about as easy as it gets.
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Post by 190mech on Jul 17, 2017 18:59:57 GMT -5
Surprised and amazed how far you have come and so fast! I just dont have the drive to work on stuff like I used to. If you had a lathe in your shop,You'd be making chips all the time too!Its an addicting tool,always a new trick or set up..Heck I spend many hours on 2stroke study,,even more on machine shop tech!! |
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Post by FrankenMech on Jul 17, 2017 20:23:41 GMT -5
You can measure the belt pitch over a few teeth to match up a belt. Then measure around the outside of the belt to get an approximate length. The length is always a multiple of the pitch.
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