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Post by benji on Dec 31, 2017 21:30:36 GMT -5
I would try using the stock clutch w the stage 6 bell, or the stage 6 clutch w the oem bell. I think the clutch is messed up.
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Post by PIG on Dec 31, 2017 22:01:10 GMT -5
Just sand down the high spots on the shoes till the whole pad is making contact with the bell
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Post by pitobread on Dec 31, 2017 22:02:03 GMT -5
Its annoying but pull the bell, sand the high spots, try again, sand the high spots.. on mine this only took a few minutes to do, on yours I could see this being a pain haha.
The more the friction surface engages, the better the bite.
Mine was only biting on the very tips, once I had 50% of the friction surface making contact, it was a huge difference.
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Post by spaz12 on Dec 31, 2017 23:08:12 GMT -5
That pipe sounds strange through my phone :/
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Post by Raizer on Dec 31, 2017 23:16:06 GMT -5
Sounds odd in person too, high pitch and buzzy, almost reminds me of an old Kawasaki dirt bike I had but mixed with something like a chainsaw ha!
Sounded awesome to me on the 50cc pulling up to almost 8000rpm, but on the 70 with another couple thousand it's almost ear splitting!
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Post by ThaiGyro on Jan 1, 2018 0:03:26 GMT -5
Thoughts on venting the clutch cover?  Was thinking of cutting a slot to both cool and clear the clutch and some vent holes, I'm just a bit wary of cutting it up since it's the support for the left axle! Hey Raizer...I am watching intently to your CVT work, since at some point I will follow up on mine. My thoughts on venting: I have no issues, but my cover is still getting air drawn from the cylinder fan. If you aren't using that system or do not have the factory tubing any longer then you should consider a few things. I have a few different ideas. Start at the intake. If you are concerned with water as I must be, you need to put some taller intake air draw onto that round port at the clutch. The OEM one had a goofy filter attached at the air box. I had to relocate mine when I switched carbs because the box location moved forward. It worked fine with just a filter at the port, but water got in. Mine is now just under the Up deck and draws air fine. When I measured with the "Draw tube" from the fan removed, the running temperature inside the CVT cover had gone up about 30 degrees. I didn't run it hard, just warmed up and a few blocks down the village. I don't believe the CVT belt provides enough fan action by itself. I see three options; Cut vents as others have done (direct venting, on top); Find a higher pressure air source for the inlet (Big snorkel-forced air); re-connect to the cylinder fan shroud like the OEM one. (Induced air) For option two- if you are running fenders you could easily use the air created by the tire rotation to force air from, say, the top of the fender. You would have to control water and filter the air. |
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Post by Raizer on Jan 1, 2018 7:46:45 GMT -5
I'm still running the tube from the engine shroud into the back of the case, my Canopy engines only came with that one tube though.
A lot of the guy's in Japan running big carbs etc seem to run little pod filters on the rear vent hole when they ditch the stock airbox.
The older style narrow engines don't have any CVT ventilation at all.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Jan 1, 2018 8:34:27 GMT -5
That is good! That "rear vent hole", just to make sure you understand...is not a vent, but the intake port, where the air goes in. The fan sucks air in...if you notice it is connected near the fan eye, so it "induces" air flow. It is drawing air through the CVT housing from the filtered side.
Kind of too much tubing for my liking, but it works! My new pipe will be in the way of that draw tube...so I am doing some different things...It is not big air, so many options.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Jan 2, 2018 3:21:32 GMT -5
You could make it look super race like and install a long bell velocity stack. I have a cute one on back order from the States for my Diaphragm carb. $12 from Esprit. You could even wire up a tiny mushroom fan inside to push some air.   |
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Post by Raizer on Jan 3, 2018 4:21:39 GMT -5
Believe it or not, but I came across a Gyro on a Japanese site with a small blower fan ducted into that vent not long after you posted! The epic tsimi came through for me again and forwarded this to me from Japan!!    Goodbye to the modded eBay pipe  It'll be back soon enough on Plan B though!   Need to find somewhere else to mount my license plate, the stock mount needs to be cut right off to clear the pipe!  Have a few places in mind though, just need to make up a bracket etc |
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Post by Lucass2T on Jan 3, 2018 5:32:17 GMT -5
Super nice exhaust that is! Curious what John can tell about it.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Jan 3, 2018 5:52:36 GMT -5
Looks kind of long Raizer. Low rpm pipe? Hard to tell in pictures, but my Gyro up mock up pipe using John's specs for 10,000 rpm. Just clears the rear subframe...at the normal stinger location. I have made my personal proto-type a center bleed for a few reasons. Low/Mid range power and natural sound damping. We fired an early version off with no muffler. Quieter than the OEM anchor weight. (Which also had no muffler)
Revive? never heard of them. Do you have some specs?
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Post by Raizer on Jan 3, 2018 6:47:52 GMT -5
Yeah it's long alright! Revive state it's designed specifically for 70cc+ cylinders, I'm told by another owner of one that it's aimed at making peak power at around 9500rpm? Will know once I get the clutch sorted and ride it. Revive are a Japanese pipe builder, they do a few different pipes for Gyros inc a couple versions of these:  The one I've got is their highest performance pipe for Gyros. They have a great reputation among Japanese Gyro owners so I'm hoping for decent results! |
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 3, 2018 7:40:30 GMT -5
Nice!
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Post by benji on Jan 3, 2018 11:04:11 GMT -5
Cool pipe, looks like an old burial pipe I had a while back.
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