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Post by aeroxbud on Jan 3, 2018 11:27:49 GMT -5
Nice looking pipe. It fits in the available space really nicely.
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Post by Raizer on Jan 4, 2018 5:04:35 GMT -5
Chopped up a stock Gyro torque driver, double sided taped some 120g paper inside the bell and whipped the input shaft out of another engine to try and sand the clutch into shape. Scuffed up the inside of the bell with 60g and cleaned the lot with acetone on clean cloths. Fingers crossed that solves the slipping!! -It's 11pm here, bit late to be trying it out in the backyard. Been a hell of a lot more mucking around than I was expecting from a supposedly high end part combo!! Swapped the 95mj out for a 90, needle is lowered 1 clip already so I left it there just for now. Went to fit a stock Dio needle into the clone carb, but the slide has a lot longer travel in the 19mm clone and the needle is about 10mm longer than what's in a Dio 16mm carb. And have pretty much figured out where to move the license plate There's a couple places to bolt a bracket to
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Post by ThaiGyro on Jan 4, 2018 6:35:00 GMT -5
I can see the Gyro adaptation...The spring joint near the bottom is a give-away!
we are trying to eliminate that joint. It is there because people are lazy... if you cut out the under-belly, or route the head-pipe differently: BANG-BANG!, you can install a good pipe.
Keep in mind we have only a 50cc version...we are struggling with under crank clearance on the 70.
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Post by tsimi on Jan 4, 2018 8:53:19 GMT -5
Are you gonna put the nice looking wheels back on once you're done with CVT and carb tuning?
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Post by spaz12 on Jan 4, 2018 15:30:51 GMT -5
Wow, maybe I should have spent some time trying to figure out why my S6 clutch sucked ass. It probably had the same issue, which, as you've figured out seems like a fairly simple fix. I was so irritated with mine I gave it away, which sucked because it's the easiest clutch in the world to set up.
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Post by 190mech on Jan 4, 2018 15:51:03 GMT -5
With the shoes touching in the center means they were cut for a smaller diameter drum,,if its a matched set(clutch and drum),I'd do some writing or calling to the S6 tech turds,for the $$$$ they charge the darn parts should fit and function perfectly!!The China crap is another story,we are buying a 'kit' that must be finished,but that should'nt be the rule with S6 stuff!!!
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Post by Raizer on Jan 4, 2018 16:14:45 GMT -5
Yeah for the price I expected it to just bolt on and work well! Will be getting hold of them if it's still slipping, I can't see any reason now why it would slip though, besides some issue with the material of the pads on the shoes or something. tsimi the wheels will be back along with the panels, it's just so much easier to work on it with the blue wheels on for a few reasons, not least the fact it barely squeezes through my shed door with the wide wheels on haha!
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Post by Raizer on Jan 4, 2018 17:17:18 GMT -5
Just going to leave this here...
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Post by tsimi on Jan 4, 2018 17:31:50 GMT -5
LoL A Gyro-wheelie.
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Post by aeroxbud on Jan 4, 2018 18:44:27 GMT -5
It's working 👍
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Post by pitobread on Jan 4, 2018 20:32:42 GMT -5
With the shoes touching in the center means they were cut for a smaller diameter drum,,if its a matched set(clutch and drum),I'd do some writing or calling to the S6 tech turds,for the $$$$ they charge the darn parts should fit and function perfectly!!The China crap is another story,we are buying a 'kit' that must be finished,but that should'nt be the rule with S6 stuff!!! I had the same problem with my Malossi Delta clutch and bell, I think you really should be doing something similar to this with most performance parts if you want 100% engagement and performance.
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Post by Raizer on Jan 5, 2018 2:46:03 GMT -5
Part of the slip has to be a tuning issue, if I open the throttle slowly there's a point just where the clutch is starting to engage that it gurgles a lot and doesn't want to move. If I just nail the gas it stands up on the rear wheels Made a mount for the license plate And took it for a ride, I think it's a touch lean with the 90mj, sounds to be bogging a bit at WOT, dropping down to somewhere closer to 3/4 sounds and feels a lot nicer. Don't think the CVT is getting full travel, it's sitting right below 10,000rpm and it's barely pushing 65kp/h and takes a while to get there. Got back and Sandy pointed out black gunge on the case by the airbox and that the cylinder was oily (and then reminded me she's pointed out the cylinder twice already...) Head wasn't as smooth as it felt after milling and the alloy gasket wasn't taking up the gaps. Worked my way down from 120 to 1500g paper and finished with autosol on the 1500. Has done something, didn't touch the carb at all and it's now lean on the pilot and the revs hang with even the slightest bump of throttle! Will swap a larger pilot in later/tomorrow and maybe go back to the 95mj.
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Post by 190mech on Jan 5, 2018 5:38:44 GMT -5
"Has done something, didn't touch the carb at all and it's now lean on the pilot and the revs hang with even the slightest bump of throttle! "
Possibly a cylinder base gasket leak started when the head was removed??
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Post by Raizer on Jan 5, 2018 6:21:45 GMT -5
Ahh yeah, that'd most likely be it. The exhaust pulled the cylinder around a touch when the cylinder bolts were loosened.
I thought it may have been from it not leaking from the head gasket anymore, but base gasket seems more likely for how drastic of a change it's made.
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Post by Raizer on Jan 5, 2018 19:14:15 GMT -5
Changed the base gasket, wasn't in bad shape but looking at the oil that seemed to have seeped past in a couple spots I'd say it had been leaking. Fired it up, once the auto choke turned off it leaned way out and died, took a lot of mucking around to get it started again and it's boggy and hanging a bit. Think it could just be that it's sealed up that's got it lean now?
This is what it's doing now
Going to go swap the pilot jet and raise the needle back to the centre now, just going to take a guess at pilot size and go for one in the mid 40's and see how it goes (I've got no idea what size the unmarked pilot that came in the carb is)
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