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Post by aeroxbud on Aug 2, 2017 11:57:03 GMT -5
Some real progress in the gyro. That's crazy seeing another one like that, just parked outside a shop.
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Post by Raizer on Aug 5, 2017 3:02:45 GMT -5
Finally took it for it's maiden voyage with the new engine, lets just say that while it could have gone worse it really could have gone a LOT better! So I hadn't test rode it since fitting the engine as the front plastics and lights are all off and I've been either working or it's been raining enough to put me off riding during daylight hours. Decided today was the day, fired her up, started first pop and sat there idling and warming up while I put put my helmet etc on. Hopped on and opened the gas, bit spluttery but once the clutch engaged it 4 stroked a bit then took off, pulled fairly strong right up to 45k and then took a few hundred meters to climb to a peak of 50k. I put the splutter down to over oiling due to the fact it has rather oily fuel + the pump as well. All was going well, I was leaning side to side trying to get used to the much stiffer swingarm pivot (feels spring loaded now!) and then about 1.5k/1mile it starts loosing speed and spluttering a bit at WOT, crap! Pull into the neighbourhood gas station and fill it with high octane and go an pay etc. Took a bit to start then was heavily either 4 stroking or missing right through the throttle range, max sped 30k and a long time to reach it! Pretty crap video of it, the second bit I'm holding it back with minimal resistance. So I whipped the carb off and checked it was still clean, it seems spotless, still gave it a blast with cleaner and compressed air to be safe. So next I started down the road of ignition/wiring issues. Since the CDI is still the stock 1983 issue it was my first point of investigation, took the cheap "racing" CDI I've got and added a plug from a chopped up Chinese loom so it plugs in to the stock loom. Started fine, sounded a lot better at low RPM, max speed 20k and still a lot of spluttering. Next we pulled the cover and fan off to check out the pulse coil The rust was so bad the pick up on the flywheel was scraping the sensor when it passed! All the magnets and the coils had crusty rust built up too No change, other than the dry scraping noise is gone. Then I added a couple of plugs and tidied up the wiring a lot, before there was a mess of bad connection and stuff just to get it running No change. Pulled the plug, just cause I'm now wondering if the enricher is actually turning off at all, or if it's staying open and causing the 4 stroking etc, could explain why it's worse once it warms up couldn't it? Also, again just cause...
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Post by spaz12 on Aug 5, 2017 4:02:43 GMT -5
Watched the video before seeing that plug and knew you have that thing running pig rich. No doubt though that poor motor is probably loving all that oil right now
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Post by Raizer on Aug 5, 2017 6:26:09 GMT -5
I think I need to video my issues and watch them before trying to fix anything in future, in the video I agree it sounds rich as anything! In person with my helmet on I could have sworn it sounded like an extremely nasty miss At least the ignition system is cleaned up now! Going to pull the enricher out tomorrow and make sure it extends with power, I'm worried I cooked it the first couple of times I fired the scoot up I had it hooked up to the stator but the stator wasn't plugged into the frame loom, so there was no reg/rect at all
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Post by Raizer on Aug 5, 2017 20:31:02 GMT -5
Tested the enricher, extended fine. Still fitted a known good Suzuki one. No change.
Next I'm going to strip the carb again and go through it with a fine tooth comb and try figure it out.
Also ordered a China clone of the 19mm variant of the stock carb.
Oh oh and just got an email, my first box of goodies should be here in the morning!
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Post by Raizer on Aug 6, 2017 3:06:36 GMT -5
Pulled the carb, stripped it, checked it all over, only thing that stood out to me was I'd put the oring on the wrong size of the little washer on the mixture screw lol. Fuel pump/vacuum tap doesn't stop flowing even without vacuum, but the float valve in the carb works so that shouldn't be the issue. Had been using a Gyro emulsion tube, changed to the Dio one Gyro, Gryo, Dio. All three carbs had 35sj so I fitted the nicest looking one. 75mj, I've got 2x75 and an 88 so obviously I stuck with the nicest 75. Enrichment valve seat looks fine to me, seal might be a little flattened but not too bad. Put it all back together and... No change. Crap. Then Aaron asked when the degreaser I got on the cylinder yesterday while doing the stator would stop smoking? Had a look on the stator side of the scoot and realized it was exhaust leaking from the head pipe to muffler join, it also dawned on me that while there was a fair bit of smoke coming from this small leak there was next to nothing coming out the tail pipe, hmmm... yeah it's blocked almost solid again. Pipe is full of hydrochloric acid and hot water, leaving it to soak over night, fingers crossed it's the issue! A super quick blip of the throttle with just the headpipe seems to suggest it is, too late to be running it with no exhaust though haha. Need to sort out a proper pipe ASAP!
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Post by aeroxbud on Aug 6, 2017 14:04:54 GMT -5
Well hopefully that will sort your problem. Really enjoying this thread 👍
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Post by Raizer on Aug 6, 2017 15:53:52 GMT -5
My WeBike Japan order just arrived, 5 days to my door wasn't bad! Kevlar belt, variator kit etc... Variator looks to have a 14mm id boss so will need to use a stock one. Thinking of grabbing a pair of lights and making a bracket to set the front end up kinda like this Thoughts? About to go flush out the exhaust, probably won't have time to fit it until after work though, fingers crossed it sorts it out! Have been offered one of those eBay expansion pipes to chop up, it's a lot shorter than my stage6 so should be easier to make something out of.
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Post by spaz12 on Aug 6, 2017 16:18:56 GMT -5
Those are cool, but see if you can't find a set of used Ruckus lights. IMO they look better.
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Post by Raizer on Aug 6, 2017 17:04:07 GMT -5
I'm keeping an eye out, there's plenty of pairs of the lights on Yahoo Japan, seem fairly cheap but have to make sure it's the complete unit. page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m211232703Shouldn't be too hard to adapt the frame to fit the Gyro either.
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Post by Raizer on Aug 6, 2017 20:08:57 GMT -5
Tipped the hydrochloric acid out of my pipe just before, flushed it out with the hose then managed to burn a bit more carbon out too It was just starting to get hot at that point, I added a stream of compressed air just after taking the photo and the smoke show really started! It's not perfect, but the pipe is pretty much as clear as I can get it easily, obviously as soon as I can I plan to change to something much better! Result: Now time to keep tidying it up a bit and start on the bodywork, need to save a bit more $$ before I can really get stuck into it though as I need to get plastics shipped from Japan.
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Post by spaz12 on Aug 7, 2017 2:45:13 GMT -5
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Post by tsimi on Aug 8, 2017 6:30:23 GMT -5
Since you started this Gyro topic I started to pay more attention when going outside and today I thought I count how many Gyros I see in 1 day. 21! 21 different Gyros I saw today alone. That is a lot, more then Jogs or Vinos. I was searching the web for a Gyro pipe since I was curious to see how they would look like. Here some links that might interest you. Gyro BlogPipesGoogle Search
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Post by Raizer on Aug 8, 2017 8:57:43 GMT -5
Wow tsimi that is A LOT of Gyros! You've found a lot more pipes on Yahoo than I managed to, think my translations leave a bit to be desired though haha. I'm thinking the pipe is going to have to wait right now though, I've decided I might as well bite the bullet and order the plastics for the front, if you're still happy to help out with shipping again? Have found that there's a few sellers selling various kits of brand new panels on Yahoo page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f227195616But really I only need these parts of it The rear section would be nice, but it'd just make it really too bulky for sending. Was offered one of these eBay type pipes It's missing most of the head pipe as it was cut off to custom fit an FA50, but it's otherwise brand new, it's cheap enough that even if I don't get it on the Gyro it can hang on the wall until I find another use for it. At this point I'm just waiting on parts to arrive from a couple places, looking for more parts to order and trying to decide on a paint scheme and if I'm going to attempt to spray it myself or try and convince an old mate of mine he wants to take it on after hours. Oh and working as hard as I can to revive my bank balance to pay for it all haha!
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Post by ThaiGyro on Aug 11, 2017 8:33:03 GMT -5
A couple of notes Raizer...not sure what you paid for HCL or who suggested it's use. Here are my warnings: HCL is sodium based with other organic forms. It may work ok for your intended cleaning, but I noticed that you heated up the pipe. If you "flushed" well with low sodium water after your acid bath, you might be OK.
The problem with sodium based acids is that sodium likes carbon and can bond in tiny crevices...like the ones in your pipe welds. When heated into the 340+ F. range and higher, those salts tend to expand and can take metal particles away with them. A happy party that you provided.
We like to use acetic acid for mild cleaning solutions. It is extremely common for copper, mild steel and stainless steel...exotic metals as well, often after a harsh chemical cleaning, like in oil refineries. It can be referred to as "pickling". Why? It is really just vinegar! White, cheap and always available. Not as strong, but I get good to great results. If plugging is bad in your pipe, like mine was...you can circulate petroleum based solvents through your chamber and into a receiver to collect the nasty shite...then flush with distilled water...then a vinegar dousche, followed by another distilled flush...yes, it is teduios, but fruitful!
My OEM pipe was really bad...did all of that and had to toss it anyway. Too many wek spots to weld repair. Live and learn
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