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Post by aeroxbud on Mar 17, 2019 20:13:01 GMT -5
Let's face it, it's not going to be stock for long anyway! Jog RR parts seem to be more expensive here than aerox parts. Must be the scarcity of second hand jogs
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Post by benji on Mar 17, 2019 22:19:32 GMT -5
scarcity of second hand jogs this is what's really bothering me. Do I deal with the wheel finish the way it is and spend the money since I probably won't be able to find this deal later? Or do I hold off for now, and wait till I find another set? Decisions, decisions.
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Post by benji on Mar 17, 2019 22:20:53 GMT -5
What I'm really hoping to do some day is find somebody across the pond that's willing to buy a jog RR or aerox (preferably Rossi edition) for me and then break it down, box it up, and ship it to me.
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Post by 'O'Verse on Mar 18, 2019 0:38:46 GMT -5
Boost crazy just found a "Rossi" Aerox near him in Florida. In really good condition. I'm not gonna say it's the only one in this country but it's gotta be close. Lucky guy...! youtu.be/ZckrBTxQs84
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Post by aeroxbud on Mar 18, 2019 4:31:49 GMT -5
Boost crazy just found a "Rossi" Aerox near him in Florida. In really good condition. I'm not gonna say it's the only one in this country but it's gotta be close. Lucky guy...! youtu.be/ZckrBTxQs84That's nice condition. Most of the Gauloises aerox the U.K. Have been trashed
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Post by aeroxbud on Mar 18, 2019 4:34:50 GMT -5
What I'm really hoping to do some day is find somebody across the pond that's willing to buy a jog RR or aerox (preferably Rossi edition) for me and then break it down, box it up, and ship it to me. Really rough shape ones seem to go for good money. I was looking at buying one for a project. But now much you would pay for one in bad shape. Then fix it, you could buy a nice one.
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Post by ryan_ott on Mar 18, 2019 11:10:36 GMT -5
What I'm really hoping to do some day is find somebody across the pond that's willing to buy a jog RR or aerox (preferably Rossi edition) for me and then break it down, box it up, and ship it to me. Spaz attempted this and I forget the particulars but it got sent back. I think it was the frame and it needed to have the headlight attached or something like that. I’d almost say cut the frame where it can be reassembled so to customs it’s just scrap or a much smaller box to not raise any flags. Wheels can always be coated and repaired it just depends on how bad they are. If they are badly oxidized I’d pass because that will show through when they are coated. I found it: Sorta bad news on the Jog. I can have it, but I have to put up a security bond of 1.5 times its declared value, which was 1,100 dollars and so I have to pay over 15 hundred dollars. I'll get the money back, but it might take a while. Why do I have to do this? Because I was trying to be cheap. Actually, it's because I didn't have it shipped with the headlight, tail/brake light and turn signals, all of which the DOT needs to see to approve. The guy said he knows that it'll be approved because Yamaha uses the same lenses for lights and signals on all their vehicles and that once I have them installed they'll sign off on it. For those thinking about importing a scooter, I'll do a write-up on it and include the necessary forms to fill out once I have it all approved. [/quote
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Post by benji on Mar 18, 2019 15:48:20 GMT -5
I’d cut the frame where it can be reassembled so to customs it’s just scrap or a much smaller box to not raise any flags. this was what I was thinking, or maybe attempting to modify a Zuma frame. If I can get it cleanly cut then it wouldn't be a big deal welding it back together. Or I can have someone ship me the frame and declare it at $50, or ship it with the head light.
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Post by benji on Mar 20, 2019 23:28:59 GMT -5
My scootertuning.ca order showed up.. except the vforce3 stage6 reed block. Instead of that, they sent a stage6 choke cable for some reason. Which is cool because I wanted one but I'm not sure I could use it because of how long it is.. Here's the rest of the stuff.. Top racing 360° manifold.. not as cool as the stage 6 one but still better than what I'm running now haha. Already sanded the mounting surface clean and flat. most intakes I've bought usually need this or end up leaking. Works really well with honda/yama/threebond.
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Post by benji on Mar 20, 2019 23:30:02 GMT -5
Oh, and here's ryanotts stuff, landed yesterday. Thanks man.
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Post by tsimi on Mar 21, 2019 0:48:15 GMT -5
You can adjust the length of the choke cable by cutting it. You can take apart the pull thing and you'll see what I mean. Careful to not cut too much though. Also be careful when you pull that choke lever. I heard people braking those off.
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Post by aeroxbud on Mar 21, 2019 2:10:10 GMT -5
Those stage 6 cables come in two lengths. A short 50cm. And a long 150cm. Perhaps get the shorter one it you like it. Save cutting it.
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Post by benji on Mar 21, 2019 8:54:18 GMT -5
I like it being long, but the end is too long. Tsimi has the right idea I think, but I haven't tried it yet. I've also heard about the end breaking off, and I'm.not surprised; it looks fairly cheap and plastic-y. The part I really like about it is it looks like it has a latch to set feature, and also a push to set feature. Meaning I can lift upon the lever and set it normally, or push on the lever and temporarily activate the choke without latching it. This could be convenient, as I really usually only need the choke when I'm starting and once it starts running immediately shut it off. So in theory I could just push down the choke while I kick it and then let it go a couple seconds later. Latched: "Pushed"
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Post by benji on Mar 21, 2019 9:02:19 GMT -5
Thank you, tsimi.
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Post by ryan_ott on Mar 21, 2019 10:03:57 GMT -5
I’ve been using mine for over a year without breaking it. Just don’t pull from the tip of the handle, more so pull from where the cable connects. If your mounting it next to your ignition switch look on the backside before you drill because the back of the switch is a lot larger then you would think and there is only a small are that it will actually fit. But it looks great when installed.
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